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Discussion Starter #1
04 Touareg V8. Symptoms: every 3-6 weeks car will not crank. Towed to dealer 3x. After towed to dealer each time, next day when tech gets to it starts car first try. No codes or dash warning lights.

First time they repaired some corroded connections under driver floor mat due to usual sunroof drain leaks. Second time replaced battery even though cranked fine when it cranked. Third time puzzled. Tech reported that starter connections looked OK. Bugging dealer to get in touch with VW tech support.

All dash lights on, 12.6 volts, can shift out of park, and key not stuck in ignition.

Failed two other times, but was able to start after a 5 minute time-out. When the car does start, starter cranks fine and car fires right up.

When car won't crank and ignition is turned to start, the battery voltage momentarily drops approx 1 volt and returns back to 12.6 volts. Slight click heard, but not the loud click I've experienced on other cars with a weak battery.

I scanned with VCDS each time and no codes even when car not cranking. Tried both keys with recent batteries.

Suspected Kessy, but other threads say that if you can shift and key isn't stuck, it is not the Kessy. Not sure this is true. Keyless entry with door handles works fine. NO Kessy codes on VCDS.

Alternator harness recall done years ago. New fuel pumps last year.

Any thoughts appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Dealer tech getting test sequence from VW. checking ignition switch, electrical control module, access/start(kessy)module, relays, etc. Kessy is original in car so version should be correct. Will update.
 

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sounds like a relay, but never really know with these cars when it comes to electronics. good luck
 

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Neutral safety switch??? I know there isn't really a "switch" anymore, but SOMETHING somewhere tells the computer what gear the transmission is is. When it doesn't start, maybe you could scan it with VCDS to see if the gearshift outputs are correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When it wouldn't start, my VCDS scan picked up no codes, but I did not go into measuring blocks. I was able to move shift lever through gears. Tried to start in Neutral, got message to go to Park. Brake pedal message worked properly.

The faint click I heard and the 1 volt drop makes me think Darryl's hunch that it might be a relay is right. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that's what it is.
 

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Test light or beeper on positive terminal of battery. If it gets 12v and honks/lights up but starter doesn't turn you know it's the starter.

Check if brake light come on - faulty brake switch may not allow it to start - but that will be paired with a MFD message to apply brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Test light between positive battery terminal and what else? Note that this is intermittent. Starter cranked fine and car started normally for a few weeks between no crank episodes. Car starts normally at dealer now and is the reason for dilemma. I considered a dead spot on starter, but ruled that out when the car starts fine after a rest period. Rest period has varied between a few minutes and over night.

Right now the car is starting fine at dealer and getting power at starter terminal. That's why I'm suspecting that the intermittent fault is between battery and starter.
 

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I'm a new T2 owner, this is a shot in the dark, but do these cars have a crank position sensor? I had this exact problem with my prior Audi and it was so frustrating my wife wanted to sell it. It was totally random non-start and it would start 20 minutes later no problem. Once the crank position sensor was replaced it was back to normal. No codes at all.
 

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I'm a new T2 owner, this is a shot in the dark, but do these cars have a crank position sensor? I had this exact problem with my prior Audi and it was so frustrating my wife wanted to sell it. It was totally random non-start and it would start 20 minutes later no problem. Once the crank position sensor was replaced it was back to normal. No codes at all.
Sorry, it was camshaft not crank shaft :surprise:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks very much. The one code I had during this ordeal was intermittent crank position sensor fault. I cleared it and it didn't come back. Service writer dismissed this as a cause of rough running, but not no-start. I will mention directly to tech and show him the print out of the fault search log.

I'm familiar with crank position problems from an audi, but that was a hot no start issue only and would always be OK for cold starts. My no start is a cold no start issue.
 

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I would ask dealer for service history. Check for a TSB replacement of a faulty battery or alternator cable. Can't remember exactly but it affected 04's and possibly 05's.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Owned car since new...have service history. Alternator cable replaced 11 years ago. I'll look for TSB on faulty battery, but battery is new and prior battery was not that bad. Same no crank symptom with each battery.
 

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Did they check the ignition switch? maybe it has intermittent faulty contacts.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Finally got car back after 2 mos. Dealer unable to duplicate the no crank condition, so I finally had them check everything from battery to starter. Cable recall done 10 yrs ago and repair was done correctly. Put in new power distribution relay and replaced starter, since all the labor was done to get to the starter to inspect. Tech neglected to replace belly pans...found in back when I put the tow hook with tools. Not happy, but since I'm ready to do oil change, no a big deal, just sloppy work.

Forum was helpful and saved many hours of labor. I printed out instructions to get to the starter through wheel well w/o dropping engine and tranny. Service writer was dismissive on this, so I had sit-down with service manager and tech.

As it comes time to replace the Touareg, when the front differential whine gets too bad, will probably not get another VW or Audi. Dealer will only replace the dff and not just bearings.

Tired of labor intensive VW procedures for minor repairs and maintenance, as well as some bone-head engineering. eg Drive shaft center bearing mount, sunroof drain connections, cheap foam seals on rear hinge mount covers, jamming intake flapper bushings, honking PCV system, lifetime tranny fill BS, corroding valves on air shocks, parking sensors that can't go through a car wash, oxidizing trim, buttons that wear off, mileage no better than my 95 Tahoe.

And assuming the (service) position more times than God allows in a lifetime.
 
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