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Discussion Starter #1
  • INTRODUCTION
I am in the process of adding a towbar, trailer wiring and trailer brake controller to my 2014 Touareg V6. It apparently was the base model, with few options, but was a heck of a deal. I knew it would be both a nuisance and expensive to add on the wiring and towbar, but this has been an ordeal.
I have broken this into sections, with a discussion of the various components, then wiring, then installation and other notes. I appreciate feedback and comments as I would like to incorporate these into a streamlined process for all.
When I initially researched this a few months ago, I figured out there were two decisions, with two main options :
  • Towbar – OEM or Aftermarket
  • Wiring – OEM, Aftermarket or Quasi OEM kl

  • TOWBAR
    • OEM
The OEM towbar is VW Part Number 7P0092135. Full boat is about $750, but I have seen it as low as $560 from the dealer. (I won’t link to the specific dealer so I don’t get them in trouble, but I located them via a search on google). You may be able to locate these from an auto recycler, but they are a bit more difficult to find. One suggestion might be to look for those labeled with a Cayenne/Q7 label).
The OEM hitch does appear to have a threaded insert which allows for use of the recovery eye in the event recovery is needed, whereas the aftermarket hitches do not.
    • Aftermarket
Aftermarket hitches are either the Draw-Tite (https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Draw-Tite/75950.html) or Curt (https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/C13116.html) . Both appear to have the same rating (7500 lbs GTW, 750lbs Tongue weight), which are marginally off the OEM rating of 770 and 770. It appears some people have a preference, with the Draw-Tite being claimed to be stronger. It has welded angle supports and chain loops below the hitch. It also has a tab presumably for mounting the hitch connectors. However, it does require trimming of the fascia, whereas the Curt does not.

Installation
  • Video
Etrailer has a video on how to install these, which requires removal of the rear bumper cover (and some other parts. It appears you remove the wheel arches, then the tail lights and the bumper cover. Once removed, it is a simple matter of unbolting the old and bolting in the hitch.
  • Bolts
I have had it recommended to use new bolts to mount the hitch to the body. These are 250x200x50mm bolts, and are sold as a kit as VW Part Number 7L0092737 (“Touareg Trailer Hitch Spare Part - Installation Kit”).
They appear available online, but when I tried to order these from my local dealer they said the kit was not available. They are individually available as “Bolt, Hex. Hd. With Shoulder” VW Part Number N91029202, and are cheaper than the kit, but they don’t come with the washers.
This appears to be the most straightforward portion.

WIRING
Going into this, let me first advise that my Touareg is the V6 Sport without the factory towing kit. Thus these notes may or may not apply.
  • Harness
    • OEM Harness (Discontinued in US/NAR)
For the wiring, I found the VW original part was 7P1055203. At the time dealers sold it for about $350, and was a special order part, but could have it in a few days. It appeared to be a harness which ran from the connections in the rear passenger luggage compartment down through a hole in the floor of the car (underneath the tail light). It had a two port connection, which appears to have slotted in a holder for this purpose. Additionally there were some other wires of unknown purpose. It did not appear to have other wires which ran up to the front of the vehicle.

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  • Aftermarket
The other obvious option was the Tekonsha T-One wiring harness from etrailer (https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tekonsha/118668.html). This was only a flat four installation, but you could piece together an adapter with additional wires from the trailer brake controller and 12V source (see eg https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/30717.html) . You would then run wires from the batter and brake controller back to the tail lights and tap in there. This process is well documented on E Trailer’s website. (Harness: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-review-tow-ready-trailer-wiring-2012-volkswagen-touareg-118668.aspx Brake Controller https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-tekonsha-p2-trailer-brake-controller-2016-volkswagen-toureg-90885.aspx) Advantage is that it is readily available and inexpensive ($150 all in approx.)
  • Westfalia – “OEM-esque”
The final option is to order the Westfalia harness from Europe. It is my understanding that Westfalia makes the harness and modules for VW so it is “close” to the OEM. You can see their webpage with instructions here - VW Touareg – 321766900113_256 – Westfalia-Automotive
The easiest retailer to get these from is PF Jones in the UK. The following is a link to their site.
rness connects to the module and goes down a hole in the right rear, and the other (red and black) runs along the passenger side to the fuse box and then over to the driver’s side.
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This is a close up of the braided:
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They sell one of a few models, which appear to be either a 7 pin model (19270553PF) or a 13 pin model (FF29270553PF or 321766300113. I could not distinguish between the two, other than one is cheaper).
The Euro 7 Pin plug is akin to the flat 4 US/NAR plug with Left and Right Indicators, Fog Lights (not used) tail lights and brake lights independent. For more on this phillies9513 had a good discussion on this thread. (Sourcing a trailer hitch electrical installation kit (VW...) There apparently was an issue with voltage and programming, but phillies9513 appears to have resolved this.
Apparently adapters are readily sold (https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/118710.html) which take the Euro 7 to a flat four without further wiring.
The two euro 13 plug kits appear to have the same installation instructions, so who knows what the difference is. They are also the same instructions as the Euro 7 plug. (See https://www.pfjones.co.uk/westfalia_fitting/321765300113.pdf)
It has been reported that one forum member (phillies9513) has successfully installed the 7 pin version, and used it to tow. Sourcing a trailer hitch electrical installation kit (VW... There were some electrical connection issues with voltage.
  • Issues with wiring


The Euro 13 pin has lots more wires for various purposes. This list was provided by redbarron55
Terminal Number
Function
13 core wire colour
Cable Core Size
1Left Hand IndicatorYellow1.5
2Rear fog light(s)Blue1.5
3Earth for contacts 1 to 8White2.5
4Right Hand IndicatorGreen1.5
5Right Hand Side lights, marker lights & number plate lightBrown1.5
6Brake lightsRed1.5
7Left Hand Side lights, marker lights & number plate lightBlack1.5
8Reversing light(s)Pink1.5
9Positive direct from battery (Power)Orange2.5
10Positive ignition key on (Fridge)Grey2.5
11Earth return for contact 10White/Black2.5
12Signaling connection to trailerWhite/Blue1.5
13Earth return for contact 9White/Red2.5

Lots more on this can be found on this forum and google.
Based upon this, I took the plunge and ordered the 13 pin kit. It was just under £200 or $250 US with shipping. My plan is to rewire the Euro 13 plug with the US/NAR 7 blade.
Looking at the US/NAR plug with the notch at 12:00, we have blades at 1:00, 3:00, 5:00, 7:00, 9:00, and 11:00 with a round wire in the middle. I believe this is the correct wiring sequence for the US/NAR 7 blade:
PositionPurposeWire Color
1:00​
12 V AuxBlack
3:00​
Right Hand Indicator/StopBrown
5:00​
Brakes / Trailer brake inputBlue
7:00​
GroundWhite
9:00​
Left Hand Indicator/StopRed
11:00​
Tail/Running LightGreen
CenterBackup lightYellow

So cross referencing that, I believe I get the following
Open questions on wiring are
  • Is Pin 6 on the Euro plug (brakes) the brake indicator?
  • Do I need to run a wire from underneath the dash down along side the wiring harness for the trailer brake input? If so what gauge
  • Is a relay for this needed in order to avoid low power constantly triggering small amount of trailer braking? I believe the answer to this is yes. https://www.etrailer.com/faq-tb-09-0021-Tekonsha.aspx
  • Do I need to purchase a 3-2 wiring converter (which turns three wire LH/RH/brake into a 2 wire system which carries brake and turn signals along the same wire) This is one, but there are a few others which may or may not have issues with LED lights on the trailer. https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Roadmaster/RM-732.html
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here are some notes on installation.

  • Installation
DISCLAIMER: I have not completed this installation, but am showing the process so far.
  • Rear Cargo
You must remove the panels on the right hand side of the cargo area. You start first with the d panel cover. It has one T25 torx screw up in the top (in the cargo cover track), and then just pulls out with panel connectors.
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Rear side (note missing clips- be careful!)
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Remove the cargo hold down panels by using a torx bit to remove the tie downs, and then pull the trim pieces up. You lift up on the cargo area cover and then remove the rear chrome trim panel by pulling it up and forward.
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You then remove the light from the panel
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Note the two wire connector that attaches to the bulb holder. You remove this in order to free up more room to remove this panel.

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This is the bulb holder. Note the spring side is what holds the light into the panel. This spring is on the right or rear side of the holder. I used a thin flat screwdriver to remove this.
You then remove the rear cargo panel. First you need to remove a plastic retaining screw. Just take a 3mm hex bit and un screw it. At some point it will come loose enough you can remove the plastic screw with a panel kit.
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The rest is secured with clips. The clips just below the window do not pull directly out, but sort of up and out. Reinstallation requires you to catch the prong and pop in.
Here is what the rear passenger cargo area looks like (credit darrinsmith) The module is in the red box and the hole is in the red box in the lower right.

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The instructions have you insert the module into a ready made holder, then run the trailer connection down to the bumper. Then you connect the main wiring harness to the module and run it up through the body to the passenger fuse box.

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In the above picture you can see I have installed the module and connected the three wiring harness plugs. The far left plug is the one that the trailer connector goes to and points to the back.
The trailer connector hole is the most outboard one at the back right behind the wheel well.

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There are three ground wires (two on main harness, one on trailer connector) that have to be attached to the grounding point which is conveniently located at the lower right. You can see it is the white painted acorn nut between the red wire and the harness.

  • Body
You then remove the various body panels and wend your way to the front passenger side. This is where I am finishing now.
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  • Passenger Fuses
Instructions say you then connect the wires to various parts of the fuse panel and insert the fuses on the passenger side, then over to the driver’s. I am at the connection stage now.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This has been an ordeal. The issue now is that I have the harness installed, but it doesn't have the trailer brake controller signal to the rear, and i don't have a brake signal to the front (where the controller will be)

In looking at this, it has the four pin plug under the dash which supposedly connects to the green plug in the right rear luggage compartment. But that isn't connected to anything else, and doesn't have a brake signal.

Any options?

I see we can run the trailer brake controller signal to the rear via a new wire. But how do we get he brake signal to the front? Per my mechanic (who finished installing the CANBUS part), tapping into the brake signal can be tricky. Any advice?
 
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