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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After reading some of the horror stories in CT regarding catastrophic engine failures caused by dirty fuel, I have decided to fit a Stanadyne Fuel Manager (FM100) system to my 2012 T3 V6 TDI.
I have searched this forum as well as myTreg (UK), but cannot find anyone who has already installed a pre-filter, so this is all a matter of trial and error for me. The most difficult part so far has been finding a location in the engine bay to install the filter, and then design a bracket to hold the filter in a vertical position. I now have that sorted, and will soon post some photos in case anyone wants to do the same.
My local Diesel shop has never worked on a Touareg, and is a bit unsure about some matters. The current question I have is as follows;
Every time the drivers door is opened, the rear fuel pump starts up for a few seconds and primes the fuel system. Does this mean that when they take a fuel line off the OEM filter, the rear fuel pump will detect that the system needs to be reprimed, and so start pumping fuel out of the fuel line? Obviously this cannot be allowed to happen, but how do they turn off the rear pump? I searched the online documents downloaded from CT, and found the section that describes how to change the fuel filter in a diesel T3. But it starts at the step of removing the 5 bolts at the top of the filter, so obviously they have already stopped the rear pump from operating. Surely its not simply a matter of NOT opening the drivers door??? So, has anybody successfully changed their fuel filter, without covering the garage floor with diesel?
Tia
Bill
 

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. ............But it starts at the step of removing the 5 bolts at the top of the filter, so obviously they have already stopped the rear pump from operating. Surely its not simply a matter of NOT opening the drivers door??? So, has anybody successfully changed their fuel filter, without covering the garage floor with diesel? Tia Bill
Bill, I have changed three fuel filter elements on my 2008 V6 TDI, and have never had an issue with fuel spillage. My wife's Jetta does a fuel prime when opening the drivers door, however I have never heard the Treg do the same.

Stuart...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the prompt replies.
ToolmanJohn; there are many entries on CT about the need to maintain 12V supply, or you will end up with a trip to the Dealer to reset alarms. I don't have the necessary equipment to do that myself.
heditch; I don't know if the 2008 fuel system is different to the 2012, but there are threads on CT which explain that opening the drivers door on a 7L will cause the lift pump to prime the fuel system.
182RG; That's what I wanted to hear. So I guess there must be a non-return valve of some sort AFTER the OEM fuel filter, to hold the pressurized fuel ready for the HPFP to pick it up.

regards,
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry heditch, that should have read 7P, NOT 7L.
 

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how did you end up with the install?

I'm interested in doing this also but I'm unsure on were to break the line to install it and such any pics would help greatly.

cheers in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi Crafty,
I am amazed that you are the first person to show some interest in this project, considering the many reported dirty fuel issues, especially in outback areas, and the fact that it is common practice for owners of other brands of 4WD SUV's to fit pre-filters/water separators to their common rail diesels.
In answer to your question, I have only partially completed the project, as other matters came along to distract me. However, I will describe where I am up to.
The first issue was where to mount the pre-filter. As far as I could see, the only place is in the space to the left front of the engine, just behind the left hand headlight.
Auto part Vehicle Engine Motor vehicle Car
Auto part Motor vehicle Engine Vehicle Fuel line


The second issue was to design and build a mounting bracket for the pre-filter/water separator. This was fairly tricky, and required a couple of attempts before I got an aluminium fabricator to weld up the final product
Table Wood Floor
Wood Plywood Floor
Knife


The mounting for the bracket was relatively easy, with only two holes to be drilled in the mounting post for the rubber block supporting the left side of the bonnet (hood). The other side is mounted using existing threaded holes.
Motor vehicle Vehicle Vehicle door Car Windshield
Vehicle Car Auto part Engine Hood
Auto part Vehicle Engine Car Gas
Motor vehicle Vehicle Auto part Car Engine
Automotive design Vehicle Windshield Automotive exterior Tire
Vehicle Auto part Car Vehicle door Automotive exterior
Motor vehicle Vehicle Car Vehicle door Automotive exterior


As far as connecting the fuel lines, I have attached a diagram showing hose connections to the fuel filter. I am going to let my diesel mechanic do this part, but he says it is just a matter of disconnecting the input supply line (number 1 on the diagram, with marking VT on the lid of the fuel filter housing), and extending that line into the pre-filter. Then the output from the pre-filter will go back to the VT input on the filter housing. I am also ordering the optional manual primer for the top of the Stanadyne Fuel Manager (FM100) system, so that the new lines can be thoroughly primed before reconnecting them to the fuel filter.
View attachment VW Fuel Filter connections.pdf

I hope to get this job finished soon, but if you need any more information, just PM me.

regards,
Bill
 

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Wow! I thought there would have been heaps of interest in it!

After looking the only place i could find for a suitable spot was behind the headlight aswell. I do like the bracket you have made up looks real good!

Thanks for the pictures and the diagram itll help out heaps!

Are you having to extend the fuel lines much? I picked up a brandnew racor seperator from work that we use in our detriot straight 6s that should do the job nicely since i can get all the bits and pieces including 10micron filters for nothing so theres a plus!

Next question is there going to be much of a pressure drop or anything?

Im happy to continue this project with you and bounce some ideas of each other!
 

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Whilst Aussie conditions are quite different to the UK (we have less dust but more water!) I've not heard of anyone here needing an extra filter/separator with the regular OE item quite adequate as long as it's emptied/changed at the recommended intervals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
In discussion with my diesel mechanic, it looks like they can disconnect a short (rubber??) hose that connects to a steel pipe bringing the fuel from the back of the car. They will then insert a longer (rubber??) hose which runs across the back of the engine (between engine and firewall) and connects to the pre-filter. Then a similar long hose will come from the output of the pre-filter, and run across the back of the engine to the input of the OEM fuel filter. So it would be very easy to restore the car to original, by removing the long tubes and reinserting the one short hose.
They are confident that the size of the ports on the pre-filter, and the diameter of the tubes are such that there will be no noticeable restriction in flow. They assure me that this same pre-filter is suitable for a V8 engine.
It is important to note that this is a pre-filter/water separator, so it is inserted BEFORE entry into the OEM filter. The filter element is listed as 30 microns, so it will filter out the rocks (to quote my diesel man), and leave the finer filtration to the OEM filter. I have been unable to get the specification on the OEM filter, but I am assuming it will be somewhere between 10 – 15 microns. There is no point in having the pre-filter with a finer filtration than the OEM filter. However the Stanadyne Fuel Manager (FM100) filter element is treated to be a water separator by repelling water from the surface of the filter element. This water collects in the plastic bowl, where it can be observed, and drained off.
 

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Watching with interest

Hi Bill,

I will keep watching this thread with interest too.

I've used your Prodigy 3 controller concept in my Treg so this might be another "Bilby innovation" that also makes it into my beast! :D

Great work to date mate. Thank you

Cheers

Andrew
 

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just out of curiousity what diameter piping are you using that wont effect fuel pressure?

the design of these separator/prefilter is predominately to separate water from the fuel and to get rid of large deposits such as dirt from the system. this will definitely prolong the life of the fuel filter already installed.

hmm I might have to check the details on the racor on I have but I was pretty sure it was 10micron but your right whats the real point of having the separator having a better filtration the the OEM one...

seems pretty easy to plumb in providing we have the correct diameter piping and the proper "rubber" hoses. one thing I don't get from your diagram is there is a return from the engine. where would we plumb that into considering these separators only have inlet and outlet. my knowledge would suggest it gets plumbs in BEFORE the separator? so that it gets "filters" it again?

loving this thread revival by the way!
 

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I to am interested in this mod, think there was another thread talking about these filters, but it didn't go anywhere?

how big is the pre-filter?

my V10 has zero spare room in the engine bay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi Black Grouse
The main concern I have is getting water contaminated diesel in my tank. There have been many posts on various Australian Forums about this issue, and the catastrophic effect it has on modern common rail diesel engines. The potential repair costs for a V6TDi are scary!!!
Hi Crafty
I don’t know the size of the fuel tubes, as I haven’t got that far yet. But as I said, I am leaving that to the diesel mechanics. My local diesel shop has a lot of experience in the installation of pre-filters, and I’m sure most diesel specialists are the same.
If you search the internet for Stanadyne FM100 (Filter/Water Separator System), and look for their Part Number 33816, you will find the exact unit my diesel guy is recommending for me. It has all the specs on flow rates, port sizes, etc.
In regard to your last question; I am not an expert in any of this, and each person should do their own research when working on expensive equipment like a TDi engine. So I am happy to give my opinion, but please seek your own expert advice. Having said that, I think the setup is as follows;
Refer to the Fuel Filter diagram, and the markings on the lid of the fuel filter housing. VT is the supply line from the fuel tank. RM is the return line from the high-pressure rail. VM is the supply line to the high-pressure pump. My diesel guy says he will just pull the pipe off VT and send it over to the input of the pre-filter. Then the pipe from the output of the pre-filter will go back on to VT. That’s it. I presume that RM is to feed any surplus fuel in the injector rail system back into the OEM filter. When I look at the back of my engine where the HPFP is located, there is another fuel line (Blue in colour) which heads back down fire firewall, and I presume, back to the fuel tank. I think that is the line you are talking about, and I don’t think you need to touch that. I think it is taking excess fuel from the HPFP back to the tank to be cooled and then reused. It doesn’t need to go into the pre-filter because all the fuel in it has already passed through the pre-filter and the OEM filter.
Hi Ragman
If you do the internet search above, you will find the complete specs sheet. The one I am going to use is part number 33816, and it’s the short version, so 9.4 inches or 239 mm high. If you are going to install the optional hand primer pump on top, that will add another 1 ½ inches or 40 mm to the height. As you have a V10, you would have to take a serious look at the flow rates to make sure the pre-filter can handle the fuel flow
 

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After reading some of the horror stories in CT regarding catastrophic engine failures caused by dirty fuel, I have decided to fit a Stanadyne Fuel Manager (FM100) system to my 2012 T3 V6 TDI.
I have searched this forum as well as myTreg (UK), but cannot find anyone who has already installed a pre-filter, so this is all a matter of trial and error for me. The most difficult part so far has been finding a location in the engine bay to install the filter, and then design a bracket to hold the filter in a vertical position. I now have that sorted, and will soon post some photos in case anyone wants to do the same.
My local Diesel shop has never worked on a Touareg, and is a bit unsure about some matters. The current question I have is as follows;
Every time the drivers door is opened, the rear fuel pump starts up for a few seconds and primes the fuel system. Does this mean that when they take a fuel line off the OEM filter, the rear fuel pump will detect that the system needs to be reprimed, and so start pumping fuel out of the fuel line? Obviously this cannot be allowed to happen, but how do they turn off the rear pump? I searched the online documents downloaded from CT, and found the section that describes how to change the fuel filter in a diesel T3. But it starts at the step of removing the 5 bolts at the top of the filter, so obviously they have already stopped the rear pump from operating. Surely its not simply a matter of NOT opening the drivers door??? So, has anybody successfully changed their fuel filter, without covering the garage floor with diesel?
Tia
Bill
Bill, I looked into this before my Simpson Desert trip mid last year. Diesel Care make complete DIY install kit for many vehicles, and for the Touareg it was pre 2011 model V6s only. At the time I spoke to them, they hadn't developed a kit for the later model Touaregs - although that is basically a new bracket design/location and most likely different precut length fuel lines/hoses (with full installation instructions - you have the bracket, so the rest would be easy through Diesel Care).

I ended up carrying a couple of spare filters and was careful to only fill at the more popular/regularly serviced fuel locations.

Volkswagen Touareg V6 Series 1 - Secondary Fuel Filter Kit - DCS030 | Diesel Care

Cheers Paul.
 

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Yes. The filter canister isn't under pressure, nor does opening the canister trigger the lift pump.
What does happen when I open the door and I hear a sound like fuel pump prime. The dealer said that was what happened?

It sounds like this is a project in need of doing if you go bush.
I will keep my eye on it.

Thanks for the info.
 

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Definitely watching this as well. After downsizing (and upgrading) from a diesel pickup, this was one of the first mods I started looking for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Finally got around to finishing this project. This filter was installed by my diesel service shop today, and so far all seems to be working OK.
For those interested, I have attached a number of photos from various angles so you can see how it fits into the fairly restricted space available. A couple of things to note in case anyone wants to do a similar job.
- I advised the serviceman (who had not worked on a 7P Touareg before this), to leave the key out, and not to open the drivers door while the fuel system was open. This seemed to work OK, and the lift pump did not try to prime the fuel system. I was a bit worried about this!
- after the installation was nearly completed, and the engine had been running and then turned off, they had to take off one of the hoses to adjust something, and unfortunately the primed system spurted fuel out everywhere. Not a continuous flow; just the small amount of fuel under pressure.The lesson is the wait for a while before opening the system, or wrap a towel around the pipe before removing it.
- As I said earlier on, the hardest part of this project is designing and constructing the mounting bracket.
 

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