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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just installed a sub and amp, after wiring it up and everything I started the car and noticed it wasn't working. So I took the REM and 12V connected them, and then took a jumper box and hooked it up to see if the amp and sub themselves were good. It worked!

So I'm assuming my 12V and or ground were bad, because I already tested the REM wire.

I used this exact spot for the pos.


And for the negative, I attached it to the battery - right under the seat.

I don't see where I went wrong. Does wire size matter?
 

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What a REM?

It looks like you have your power wire hooked up correctly. Is there a GOOD fuse in that little add-on fuse box?

Size always matters. LOL! How many amps does your device say it draws? Anything under 15 amps should be OK with that wire size.

Start searching with your voltmeter and make sure you have voltage where you should have voltage....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What a REM?

It looks like you have your power wire hooked up correctly. Is there a GOOD fuse in that little add-on fuse box?

Size always matters. LOL! How many amps does your device say it draws? Anything under 15 amps should be OK with that wire size.

Start searching with your voltmeter and make sure you have voltage where you should have voltage....
Tells the sub to turn on remotely, I put it onto one of the 12v accessory outlets.
 

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Haha! Sorry. It's been a while since I messed with an aftermarket radio. Duh. Of course. Remote. :- )

Have you been able to try and back probe the wiring harness to verify power to the sub and amp?
 

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I used this exact spot for the pos.

And for the negative, I attached it to the battery - right under the seat.

I don't see where I went wrong. Does wire size matter?
As a "recovering" audiophile, there are a couple of issues you need to address.

First, your power (Positive / Red) should ALWAYS come direct from the battery (not the block where you have it connected). Use a Ring Terminal (auto parts store - appropriate size for wire gauge) and connect it directly to the battery post. Yes, the Touareg battery is in a terrible location for this....

Second, your ground should NEVER go back to the battery - always to the chassis (metal on the car). Make sure that you scrape the paint off wherever you put your ground in. AND make sure you look underneath it so you don't put a screw into wires, a gas line, gas tank, etc. Your ground should be short - like 2-3 feet. Long enough to get to the chassis only. Again use a ring terminal and run a self tapping screw into the chassis close to the amp.

Lastly, wire size absolutely matters. The required wire size (gauge) is based on two factors - amps required and length of run. Use a wire that isn't big enough and the wire will get hot (hot enough to melt down sometimes). I get it's not a competition system. But I wouldn't run an amplifier in a car with anything less than 8 gauge wire.

I've had several systems over the years. My favorite system had one run of Ought Gauge (0 gauge) wire from the battery to a big capacitor and then on to distribution block to the amps. It pounded.

My favorite installation (I sold 12V stuff for a while) was an early 60's Ford pickup that we did. Filled the bed up with 6 18" DVC subs and their enclosures, 6 giant mono amps and then cut a custom vent the width of the bed from the bed into the pickup cabin. It made your eyeballs giggle. It hit 152db. Crazy stuff, but that's what he wanted.

Back on point, here's a link to a handy chart on wire size. I googled it.

http://www.sunforceproducts.com/Sup...harge Controllers/WireGaugeSelectionTable.pdf

If you get your wiring wrong (generally with the ground), the biggest thing to look for is a ground loop. What you will hear is static, a buzz, or sometimes even a whining sound that goes up and down with the engine speed. The easiest way to solve that issue is to move your ground point or make sure it's actually touching bare metal and not painted metal.

Good luck! You'll do fine and really enjoy it!
 
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