Club Touareg Forum banner
1 - 20 of 37 Posts

·
Registered
2013 TDI Exec.
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know where to get parts diagrams, specifically for the T3 rear driveshaft? I need to get part numbers for all the clips, O-rings and center support bearing. I found a few online VW dealers, but they don't seem to have a diagram and they only list the whole driveshaft.

Thanks!

Todd
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,385 Posts
Why do you need parts for the drive / prop shaft?

The reason I ask is that within the past month there have been three reports of a Generation 2 (T3 and T4) drive / prop shaft becoming disconnected, on two occasions at speed.

On two of the three reports we know the shaft had been removed to enable work on the gearbox.

On one of those occasions the shaft disconnected very soon after the work, but on the other occasion it was a year and 4,000 miles later.

On all three occasions the fault appears to lie with the C clip coming adrift as it is apparently very hard to get it properly seated so beware on that point if you are doing the work yourself!

Any info or pictures, most especially the latter, that you can add to the subject will be much appreciated. Thank you.
 

·
Registered
2013 TDI Exec.
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Why do you need parts for the drive / prop shaft?

The reason I ask is that within the past month there have been three reports of a Generation 2 (T3 and T4) drive / prop shaft becoming disconnected, on two occasions at speed.

On two of the three reports we know the shaft had been removed to enable work on the gearbox.

On one of those occasions the shaft disconnected very soon after the work, but on the other occasion it was a year and 4,000 miles later.

On all three occasions the fault appears to lie with the C clip coming adrift as it is apparently very hard to get it properly seated so beware on that point if you are doing the work yourself!

Any info or pictures, most especially the latter, that you can add to the subject will be much appreciated. Thank you.
The support bearing is going out. It was making lots of weird noises when we bought it, changing pitch, stopping suddenly, etc. I injected a small bit of oil with a syringe and now its quiet as a mouse. I'm sure its has some damage from running "dry". It does not have any noticeable play but I'm going to replace it anyway. I was planning on replacing the C clips and O-rings too. Oh and its at 145K miles.
 

·
Registered
2013 TDI Exec.
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The parts diagrams don't split out the various parts with any detail. You can get a carrier bearing "repair" kit Part Number:7P6 598 575 and a "Boot" kit Part number: 7P6 598 573, which look like they have everything I'll need. I'm unsure if the carrier comes with a bearing or if the boot kit has the circlips for each end of the driveshaft. I ordered both so I guess I'll see when they arrive. Numbers 20 and 21 in the diagram below:
Rectangle Font Automotive exterior Auto part Design
 

·
Registered
2013 TDI Exec.
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It would be great if you can do a write up with pix please.
I finally got around to replacing the Driveshaft bearing. I'm convinced that Volkswagens are not designed to be worked on. It took me about 7 hours start to finish with a little bit of time for searching for tools.

I also downloaded 2 documents that were Helpful from erWin.:

D3E8029E335-Rear_Final_Drive.pdf
D4B8028802A-6-Cylinder_Diesel_Engine_(3_0L_Engine__Common_Rail__Generation_II) CNRB.pdf

In the instructions for removing the driveshaft, the first step is to " Remove the rear portion of the exhaust system refer to Rep Gr. 26." I somehow failed to download Rep Gr.26 but the engine manual has a whole section on the exhaust system which was helpful.

244811


I chose to remove the center section of the exhaust from the three bolt flange near the transfer case to the slip connector. I left the muffler and the straight pipe up to the slip connector on the car. This section of the exhaust has 2 sensors and the Adblue injector mounted to it. There is also a heat shield up above it that has to be removed as well. The heat shield hides the NOx sensor 2 controller. I had to lower the exhaust to get the heat shield out. It was a little bit of a pain.
244812

The exhaust is hanging by the slip connector and the center exhaust hanger with one very loose bolt. I removed the bolts from the three bolt flange and the passenger side exhaust hanger and loosened the nuts on the slip connector, one of which broke due to rust. This is a fairly rusty T-reg which was rescued from the north. The bolt on the slip connector is the only one that broke surprisingly.

244813


Once the heatshield was out of the way I removed the NOx 2 controller. The gray plastic tab gets pulled out towards the left in this picture, then you can press down on it with your thumb and unplug the cable on the left. You could probably unplug the cable going to the sensor but it looked like it was harder to remove and I didn't want to damage it. (2) 10mm nuts hold the controller on so its easy to remove.

244815

This is the gray plastic "lock" that you have to pull out to remove the connector on the NOx controller and the Particulate sensor. This is the particulate sensor since I didn't get a pic of the NOx controller. I chose to remove this sensor and controller as well instead if just unplugging the sensor. The sensor connectors don't look very user friendly.



244817


The AdBlue injector is held on with a tiny V-Band clamp. Loosen the 4mm Allen head bolt then gently pry the band off of the flanges. I had to bend it quite a bit to get it off of the flange. The flange on the exhaust side has a few grooves cut in the periphery that interface with tabs on the Injector side of the flange that get it "Clocked" correctly. I did not remove the connector from the AdbBue injector and just left it hanging.



244818


You can see 2 of the tabs here and the weird looking gasket on the end of the AdBlue injector. It looks like it is one of the multilayer metal gaskets. Mine stayed with the Injector and I didn't feel like disturbing it. Be sure not to lose it!




244816


Here is the exhaust with both sensors and wrapped around the pipes and the AdBlue injector hanging. All that is left here is to pull the last bolt on the center exhaust hanger and slide it out of the slip connector.



244819


Exhaust out finally!

End of part 1.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
2006 V8 Touareg AIR, nav, hid
Joined
·
4,444 Posts
Thanks for the pics. The write up is very helpful.

Well done. 👍
 

·
Registered
2013 TDI Exec.
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
244821


Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures of the driveshaft removal. First you remove the large heavy vibration dampener that surrounds the driveshaft where it connects the the transfer case (4) 13mm bolts. Then you use a prybar to pop the ends of the driveshaft off of the clips on the transfer case output shaft and the rear differential input shaft. Then you can remove the center of the crossmember that covers the middle of the driveshaft (4) 16mm bolts, then remove the carrier bearing. The bolts on the carrier bearing are M10 Triple square! The intent is then to slip the ends of the driveshaft fully off of the transfer case and the rear diff and pull it free from the car. Be sure to mark the Driveshaft and the input/output shafts so you can get them back on the same splines as before. The manual says to use 2 people to remove the driveshaft.

I had to use a lot of force to get the front of the driveshaft off of the transfer case end (2-1/2ft prybar yanking with all I had), the rear end was quite a bit easier. When popping off the front I accidentally forced it all the way off of the transfer case and the shaft dropped with the weight of the dampener! Hopefully there was no damage to the CV joint. There are lots of warnings in the manual about keeping the shaft straight and not bending it. Hopefully the joint is not very delicate!

244822


Next up is disassembly of the driveshaft. It has 3 main parts and 2 slip yokes. Make sure you mark the orientation of the slip yokes and the ball cages before you take them apart! If this is put back together in a different orientation you will likely get vibrations. The ball cages orientation are probably not that important but the slip yokes certainly are.

244823


I removed the clamps with a set of vice grip pliers. Taking them off was easier than putting the new ones on. They make special pliers for this but I made do with what I had.

244824


I scribed the shafts to mark the orientation, then once I took the them apart, noticed that the QR codes engraved on each shaft lined up fairly well when assembled correctly. I wasn't able to see them until I had the boots off.


244825


There are large snap rings that hold the ball cages in the shaft. They ride in the groove cut in the end of each end of the driveshaft and are a bear to remove. You can see above that the groove has small cutouts in it to allow the balls in the cages to slip past. I used the grooves to get an O-ring pick behind the clip and eventually got it to pop out. It wont go flying away because its gap is smaller than the shaft it fits over. The ball cage has to be pushed back to allow enough room to get the clip out. You can then pull the shaft all the way apart. I think you will need to take both slip yokes apart so that the center section will fit in a press to remove the carrier bearing.

Again I failed to take many pictures as this was all 2 hand work and messy!


244826


The ball cages are held on with sheet metal caps that you drive off with a hammer and punch. The Kits I bought had all the parts needed except the clips and O-rings on the Transfer case output shaft and the Differential Input shaft.

244827


I used a Press to remove the old carrier bearing, but I didn't have a properly sized pipe to press on the new one. I ended up just using a hammer and a punch to slowly tap it on the shaft, followed by the plastic "Centrifugal Disk" that was also in the kit. Note the orientation of the bearing when you press it on, it will only fit correctly one way.

244828


Put on the boot with both clamps(Don't clamp them yet) and the snap ring before you put on the ball cage. I greased it up liberally with some wheel bearing grease then slid the rest of the slip yoke over it. The vice grips hold the ball cage in place against the end cap. Theses small ones did not hold so I had to use a normal size pair of vice grips. The slip yoke is very hard so you are unlikely to damage it but don't put them any tighter than is necessary.

The next challenge was installing the snap rings back in the tubes. The technique that finally worked was to set one end of the ring in its groove then using a flat head screwdriver in the adjacent ball groove, pry the ring back against the snap ring groove. This pulled a little more of the ring into the groove which I was barley able to hold with my other hand. I then put the screwdriver in the next ball groove and pried the ring in to its groove a little more and held with my other hand. I eventually worked around to the other end of the ring and it snapped fully into place. It was not easy especially with all the grease. My hands were not strong enough to bend the ring into place but I was able to hold it while I repositioned the screwdriver.

244829


Once the rings are in position, slide the boots over the ends of the shaft and tighten the clamps. I used both of my pairs of vice grips to get the clamps tight and locked together. This was also a challenge because these clamps are not designed to be closed with Vice grips and they kept slipping off of the ears.

The reinstall only had a few issues. I did not get the O-rings and the snap rings that hold the ends of the driveshaft to the T-case and the rear Diff, so I decided to reuse the original ones. I inspected the clips and they were still springy and did not have any damage from removal. the O-rings were still squishy and not hardened. This still makes me a little nervous since TommiT above had mentioned them coming apart after service.

The front shaft went on without much drama. I used a Dead blow hammer on the dampener ring and it snapped right into place. I tested it with the prybar and it was on solidly.

The rear of the shaft was a different story. It has a suspension crossmember right below it and it is really in the way. I tried a 2x4 block of wood but it would barley fit. I found a large piece of aluminum that was cut out of a pipe so it was curved. It fit on the back of the coupler fairly well. I finally managed with a lot of hammering at different angles to get the coupler mated most of the way. It came off too easily with the pry bar so I pulled it back and greased up the shaft and O-ring. After a bit more hammering it passed the prybar test. I'm reasonably confident that it will stay on. I think the coupler was at a slight angle to the Input shaft on the Differential, but I was unable to see it because of the crossmember. I think hitting it on the top of the coupler was the best spot to get it to tilt properly and slide on.

This morning I had a check engine light, but it turns out I forgot to plug the Particulate sensor back in! It made all the way back from the shop without complaint, then set off the light at startup this morning. I cleared the code with VCDS and all is good now.
244830


It was nice having a lift to do this on!

If you have any questions, please ask. I'm sure I forgot something.

Todd
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
807 Posts
The support bearing is going out. It was making lots of weird noises when we bought it, changing pitch, stopping suddenly, etc. I injected a small bit of oil with a syringe and now its quiet as a mouse. I'm sure its has some damage from running "dry". It does not have any noticeable play but I'm going to replace it anyway. I was planning on replacing the C clips and O-rings too. Oh and its at 145K miles.
What sort of weird noises?? I am also getting a weird sort of moaning noise that comes and goes. Almost sounded like a diff on the way out but I drained all diffs and transfer box oil to see if there was any shiny bits but they all looked clean!
could it also be a dry bearing on the prop shaft!!
 

·
Registered
2013 TDI Exec.
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What sort of weird noises?? I am also getting a weird sort of moaning noise that comes and goes. Almost sounded like a diff on the way out but I drained all diffs and transfer box oil to see if there was any shiny bits but they all looked clean!
could it also be a dry bearing on the prop shaft!!
That could be the Drive shaft carrier bearing. Ours was very inconsistent but did seem to be loudest at 30-45mph. Sometimes it was there, sometimes it was silent. Once I thought someone had honked at me but then it made a similar sound at a different pitch seconds later and I knew it was the "phantom" noise again. Every once in a while it would actually sound like a bad bearing, but it mostly made honking/moaning noises. Injecting oil with a syringe stopped all of the noise and it never made another sound in about 1500 miles of driving. It turned out to be a quick/cheap diagnostic.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
807 Posts
That could be the Drive shaft carrier bearing. Ours was very inconsistent but did seem to be loudest at 30-45mph. Sometimes it was there, sometimes it was silent. Once I thought someone had honked at me but then it made a similar sound at a different pitch seconds later and I knew it was the "phantom" noise again. Every once in a while it would actually sound like a bad bearing, but it mostly made honking/moaning noises. Injecting oil with a syringe stopped all of the noise and it never made another sound in about 1500 miles of driving. It turned out to be a quick/cheap diagnostic.
Thanks for the explanation. It too sounds like the problem I am having and I can’t figure it out? I think I will also inject some grease and see what happens! What size of syringe did you use and what type of grease? If you don’t mind me asking!
 

·
Registered
2013 TDI Exec.
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The first time I used some light machine oil and a syringe I use at work for lubricating small parts. I then ordered a needle with a Grease zerk fitting suitable for a grease gun. This should be an Amazon link to the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N41VKS3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

Any sort of lubricant you can get in there should help with the noise. I felt around with the needle till it felt like it was on the rubber seal of the bearing, then shoved the needle through. I believe you can only go through from the front of the bearing because of the plastic "centrifugal disk" covering the back side of the bearing. If that quiets it down at least you have located the noise, but be prepared to replace it soon.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
807 Posts
I did grease the bellows on either side of the bearing using needle and grease gun.
seems to have helped but still here the slight hum around 70kmh off and on. It doesn’t scream and the sound is between a whir / hum but is not consistent.
jury is still out in if I am on the track in finding out where the actual problem is!
I might drain the diff oils again and see if bits in it again!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
807 Posts
ATSTodd
Rereading your explanation…
Did you grease the bearing or the roller balls in the splines on either side of the bearing.
I just greased the splines inside the rubber bellows.
 

·
Registered
2013 TDI Exec.
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Sorry for the slow reply. I greased the bearing only with the needle. The splines and ball cages are probably fine unless the boots are torn. The slip joints don't move much at all. I circled the gap in the picture below where you can see part of the bearing. Insert the needle here but be aware you have to get through the seal of the bearing too.
244959
 
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
Top