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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure where to post this, but since this is related to accelerator angle sensor...

Haven't seen this here, but it's been covered in some Mustang and Hyundai forums.


If your gas pedal has this 'dead zone' issue, it might worth a try since it’s free. It is even better than sprint booster! This mod involves removing the gas pedal which takes about 5 minutes, the difficult part is it’s jammed in a tight space, my screwdriver can barely clear all the obstacles.

I’ve been driving with this tweak for some miles without any issues, but do this at your own risks! With our no-left-foot-braking ecu setting from the factory, this tweak really shouldn’t post any danger. Also I’m not doing any mods, just some tweaking well within how the part was designed for, you will see what I mean later with pictures. But always use your common sense!

FYI, I use auto hold, and if the car stays holding, it is clear that there isn’t throttle input when I don’t put my foot on it.

So,

To remove the gas pedal you will need to remove the footwell cover and then remove the 3 torx screws holding the pedal to the floor or wall.... tips: when removing the gas pedal, remove the white platic clip that holds the footwell cover may give you more room, just slide to the right to remove it.

Our DBW gas pedal is just like any others out there, a set of brushes swiping against a circuit board.

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Notice how the brushes rest (right edges on marks left by brushes) further away from when voltage registers (bumps 0.5mm away from the right edges)? The goal is to remove the dead zone and set the brushes right before when voltage starts to register to the ECU.

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Good news is our gas pedal is designed to allow some tweaks, see how the mounting holes on the cover is oval shaped? And see the marks left by the screws from factory setting is in the middle of the mounting holes? We just need to slide the cover a little bit like so.

IMG_0195.JPG

Then, loose the 5 phillips screws (funny Hella used phillips screw, it’s a welcome sign), no need to take them out (less chance to break the brushes since they are EXTREMELY fragile), push the cover towards the direction of engine (when mounted), tighten the screws and install everything back. Test idle rpm, if idling is rough, pull the cover back a little. It may take some trial and error to find the sweet spot, but I pushed mine all the way and luckily that’s my sweet spot. This ~0.5mm offset on the cover can translate to a lot of travel on the other end because of leverage.

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The car is more fun to drive now. It’s better than the sprint booster I have since it simply amplifies signal to open throttle early, but multiplying zero is still zero. Now by removing a dead zone the whole car is more responsive. It feels more like the old fashioned wire-pedal.

What’s fascinating is it looks like this is not limited to T3 only, I know this part is shared by a lot of cars on this platform for decades! Safe to say this will be the first thing to do for all my future cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the link, I will try to re-adapt the pedal. For now, "drawback" is that WOT is reached earlier than before :p

Thinking actually to adapt the fully opened point just before the kick down button, not sure if it will be accepted by the computer. I didn't see any dedicated full-throttle part on the circuit board, however I need to trace it more carefully, good thing I have a spare. But it looks like kick down is purely determined by ECU logics since our kick down button is... well a button.. it's not wired to anything... Don't like the idea of having to push 2 different rates of springs to get full throttle especially when that button is designed just to annoy you without doing any functions...
 

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That's the point of the adaptation... 100% throttle is when you touch the button, pressing past 100% gives you a transmission kick down.

-J
 

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Discussion Starter #5
VCDS says to push all the way to the floor? I assume that's passed kick down button while doing adaptation? Then the ECU will register that as 100%?

Also my transmission kicks down just fine without pushing all the way passed the button even before the adjustment, that's why making me think the button could be ignored.
 
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