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No times taken before or after. The increase in power is definitely noticeable especially from a stand still.
Thats awesome! Has it impacted your mileage any? I'd imagine keeping your foot out of it should yield better mpg.

You should experiment with changing supercharger pulley's
 

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Hi. If someone can help me...i have 2 problem with my 2011 hybrid..the first one is sometime when i want to start my car the engine wont start , i hear only one sound like a rotating bearing.take off the ignition and repetat the step the engine start..
And the second problem is my hibrid system ..when i press the e mode button nothing happed but in drive mode the e mode run automaticaly when i remove my foot from has pedal...thx
E-Mode will not work if the engine is cold... must reach a minimum of 30C before it will operate. Also will not work in "off Road" mode, or when the HV battery is too low.

Hope that helps.
 

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Hey folks, thought I'd give a little info on my experiences rolling the dice on a high mileage 2011. Bought at 130k, I felt ok given maintenance history and in hybrids generally getting to higher mileages without issue due to shared load across the drivetrains (have owned an Escape Hybrid and a Prius V). Within a few weeks of ownership, it developed (or revealed) an oil leak, which was traced to the oil cooler. Also needed a power steering reservoir replacement. Started overheating a few weeks later with oil in the coolant. Replaced thermostat and a spotty radiator fan. Almost immediately, check coolant warnings and more oil in the coolant, and a P0430 code (catalytic converter).

Had a pretty deep inspection done at an Audi-specific independent shop when determining the oil cooler issue, and the tech claimed no indication of other leaks, head gasket, timing chain cover, or otherwise. Rig is in the shop now being driven 100 miles with multiple flushes along the way.

We'll see how it goes - if this doesn't resolve its issues it's getting dumped. Lesson learned on buying a high mileage Audi engine!
 

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Hey folks, thought I'd give a little info on my experiences rolling the dice on a high mileage 2011. Bought at 130k, I felt ok given maintenance history and in hybrids generally getting to higher mileages without issue due to shared load across the drivetrains (have owned an Escape Hybrid and a Prius V). Within a few weeks of ownership, it developed (or revealed) an oil leak, which was traced to the oil cooler. Also needed a power steering reservoir replacement. Started overheating a few weeks later with oil in the coolant. Replaced thermostat and a spotty radiator fan. Almost immediately, check coolant warnings and more oil in the coolant, and a P0430 code (catalytic converter).

Had a pretty deep inspection done at an Audi-specific independent shop when determining the oil cooler issue, and the tech claimed no indication of other leaks, head gasket, timing chain cover, or otherwise. Rig is in the shop now being driven 100 miles with multiple flushes along the way.

We'll see how it goes - if this doesn't resolve its issues it's getting dumped. Lesson learned on buying a high mileage Audi engine!
The supercharged Audi engine in those are bulletproof. Did you buy from original owner? Typically once you get past the first owner in these, people can't afford to properly maintain them and things can get sketchy
 

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High Mile hybrid: thanks for all of your info over the years. My 2012 hybrid showed an alternator light 3 weeks ago. No alternator, I know. Left it at my shop that night. Next morning it couldn't be moved. Towed to VW shop and $500+ later they said my hybrid battery tray filled with water and I need a new hybrid battery. Battery is $10,000.
VWNA says no one in WI is certified to swap one out, and they have no idea where I might find a tech with the right certification. Tray recall was done and now VW says it's my problem. They did offer to give me the phone numbers of all the dealers in my area. Thoughts?
 

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High Mile hybrid: thanks for all of your info over the years. My 2012 hybrid showed an alternator light 3 weeks ago. No alternator, I know. Left it at my shop that night. Next morning it couldn't be moved. Towed to VW shop and $500+ later they said my hybrid battery tray filled with water and I need a new hybrid battery. Battery is $10,000.
VWNA says no one in WI is certified to swap one out, and they have no idea where I might find a tech with the right certification. Tray recall was done and now VW says it's my problem. They did offer to give me the phone numbers of all the dealers in my area. Thoughts?
Nightmare scenario


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High Mile hybrid: thanks for all of your info over the years. My 2012 hybrid showed an alternator light 3 weeks ago. No alternator, I know. Left it at my shop that night. Next morning it couldn't be moved. Towed to VW shop and $500+ later they said my hybrid battery tray filled with water and I need a new hybrid battery. Battery is $10,000.
VWNA says no one in WI is certified to swap one out, and they have no idea where I might find a tech with the right certification. Tray recall was done and now VW says it's my problem. They did offer to give me the phone numbers of all the dealers in my area. Thoughts?
I just traded mine after bullet-proofing top of the motor due needing a $3k disengagement clutch. You could buy another car for $10k and keep yours for parts.


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I've not heard of the Hybrid battery failing before so thought I'd go online.


I've no experience of the company, and they don't list a price, but it might be worth talking to them.

There may be other possibilities too

Let us know how you get on.
 

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Anyone have issues with hybrid to gas transitions from a stop? It happens when stopped in hybrid mode, on a slight incline (enough that vehicle would roll backward in neutral)

When I take my foot off the brake, I start to roll backward— no hill stop. Then I when hit the gas, no electric power, the gas engine kicks in, revs up (still rolling backwards) and then BAM, it drops into gear at high rpm with a jolt and I’m off.

Very disconcerting and I’ve almost rolled into cars behind me a few times.

Clutch? Torque converter? Valve body? Sounds expensive no matter what.
 

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Never had that problem. Once at a stop when I hit the gas, nothing happened. The gas engine didn’t kick in and the electric motor didn’t do anything. Turning the vehicle on and off fixed that. Other than some early warranty items, it’s been great for 150k miles.


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I noticed this too, but only if I use autohold.

In my case I thought it was just bad software. Hill hold does not engage if my foot is not coming from the brake pedal. On a incline, the engine turns off, electric motor is not energized, foot is off the brake pedal, when I push the gas, autohold disengages, hill hold does not engage because I haven't been pressing the brake pedal due to using autohold, the car needs a split of a second to hookup the powertrain.

To solve this, I learned to disenage autohold on inclines, just use brake pedal like on a normal automatic cars. Or turn the knob to off-road mode, it should help. unless it is a real mechanical fault.
 

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I noticed this too, but only if I use autohold.

In my case I thought it was just bad software. Hill hold does not engage if my foot is not coming from the brake pedal. On a incline, the engine turns off, electric motor is not energized, foot is off the brake pedal, when I push the gas, autohold disengages, hill hold does not engage because I haven't been pressing the brake pedal due to using autohold, the car needs a split of a second to hookup the powertrain.

To solve this, I learned to disenage autohold on inclines, just use brake pedal like on a normal automatic cars. Or turn the knob to off-road mode, it should help. unless it is a real mechanical fault.
I’ll have to test that.


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