Hello all...after I had replaced the PCV valve membrane, I decided to tackle replacing the old broken coil connectors. Although broken, the connectors were seating well on the coils and I wasn't having any issues or anything, I just didn't like the idea of having broken connectors. So I ordered a set of six (even though only 4 were broken, but you never know when you'll need a spare one), and bought myself a set of extraction pins.
1. So here you can see the old broken connectors.
![244024]( "244024")
2. First step is to remove the connector covers. Carefully. Old plastic, as you know, can and will try as much as it can to snap and break if you let it. They are easy to remove, just carefully (can't stress that enough) pry open the tabs that keep them closed and they come off easily.
![244025]( "244025")
3. Once the covers are removed you can start the guessing game as to which extractor tool will do the job of pushing the pins put of their resting place. Fun!!! By the way, the picture below shows the wrong way to do it. Try not to separate the connector in two parts as shown. The correct tool will actually push the pin out of the numbered part, along with the insulation intact. In my case, some connectors were so stubborn I just crushed them (carefully) with pliers to get the pins and wires loose and removed.
![244026]( "244026")
4.. Re-insert the pins, minding the proper location of each wire with the number on the new connector (pictures are so helpful here). Put the respective cover on the new connector, snapping the tabs together carefully, and you're done.
![244027]( "244027")
I remembered someone on YouTube once saying that it's a good idea to spray a small bit of WD40 inside a connector so that it can be removed easily later on, should there be a need to. So I did. And it worked. Now I lightly pull the locking tab on the connector and it comes off smoothly, unlike before where it needed wiggling and pulling, and that was without a locking tab.
I hope this was helpful for anyone who would like to do this.
1. So here you can see the old broken connectors.
2. First step is to remove the connector covers. Carefully. Old plastic, as you know, can and will try as much as it can to snap and break if you let it. They are easy to remove, just carefully (can't stress that enough) pry open the tabs that keep them closed and they come off easily.
3. Once the covers are removed you can start the guessing game as to which extractor tool will do the job of pushing the pins put of their resting place. Fun!!! By the way, the picture below shows the wrong way to do it. Try not to separate the connector in two parts as shown. The correct tool will actually push the pin out of the numbered part, along with the insulation intact. In my case, some connectors were so stubborn I just crushed them (carefully) with pliers to get the pins and wires loose and removed.
4.. Re-insert the pins, minding the proper location of each wire with the number on the new connector (pictures are so helpful here). Put the respective cover on the new connector, snapping the tabs together carefully, and you're done.
I remembered someone on YouTube once saying that it's a good idea to spray a small bit of WD40 inside a connector so that it can be removed easily later on, should there be a need to. So I did. And it worked. Now I lightly pull the locking tab on the connector and it comes off smoothly, unlike before where it needed wiggling and pulling, and that was without a locking tab.
I hope this was helpful for anyone who would like to do this.
