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Adjusters would have cost me a lot more. When you buy a kit it's chains and guides so we were always going to do that. We then replaced the sprockets that showed signs of wear.
Thanks. Have not heard of problems with the adjusters other they can get stuck, which usually can be fixed by shocking them with voltage. They are expensive. Suppose there was some efficiency with the current layout , but seems the camshaft chains, sensors could have been on the front of the block mirror image except chain would form a V with a gear on front of crankshaft. Could change the evaporative system with two small centrifuges one on front of block and one on the back over the chains. Wishful thinking. I plan on doing the chain once, problem returns will drive until it won't.
 

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I've never seen the inside of an engine look that disgusting colour, everything's burnt! There's as good a reason as you'll ever see that manufacturers 'long life' service schedules are total bollocks! I've NEVER seen a motorcycle engine look like that, and guess what, they have 3500-6000 mile oil changes!
 

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I've never seen the inside of an engine look that disgusting colour, everything's burnt! There's as good a reason as you'll ever see that manufacturers 'long life' service schedules are total bollocks! I've NEVER seen a motorcycle engine look like that, and guess what, they have 3500-6000 mile oil changes!
You mean my engine ??????
 

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Is it easy to get to the tensioner and reprime it? I have a 2004 V6 3.2.
Or do you have to remove any stuff beforee getting to it?
 

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Is it easy to get to the tensioner and reprime it? I have a 2004 V6 3.2.
Or do you have to remove any stuff beforee getting to it?
Hi. It's not too bad. Just remove the main air duct and plug the hole with a clean rag. Its around the under side of the throttle body. Need a 27mm socket from memory and a socket extension. Cheers.

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Hi Ben, who changed the timing chain for you, and how much did it cost? I live in Melbourne, and just wanted to compare prices. Cheers
 

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Hi Ben, who changed the timing chain for you, and how much did it cost? I live in Melbourne, and just wanted to compare prices. Cheers
Hi. German Automotive in Geelong. Roughly $5500-$6500 in parts and labor. Probably a week's work for a mechanic. Cheers.

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A week to change a timing chain, really !!! 5500-6500$ !!!
Mechanic said one day !!!
I'm not saying this is exactly how it transpired but I would be impressed if the mechanic said 1 day. If that's the case I need mine done again because I'm back at same bad timing values...... I would like to try adjustable cam plates from vr6parts.com and get rid of oil adjust cams. Then set timing to run at the advanced end of specification (ie. +7deg).

Monday AM - Disconnect hoses/wiring/vac down A/C
Monday PM - remove engine from vehicle
Tuesday - strip down engine and make sure it's setup to correct timing. Maybe some debate as to how many sprockets are changed after inspection?
Wednesday - rebuild and time up engine.
Thursday - Reinstall engine ,wiring ,hoses. Fluids, REGAS A/C
Friday - test and handover to customer.

Did your mechanic say the engine has to come out?

Cheers.

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Yes engine out. I will get more details later if I decide to do it. I have the marbles in a can noise and want to investigate. Might be the lifters. I got the treg last summer and i'm learning the stuf.
 

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Thanks Ben.
I got a quote for roughly $4500 AUD, which is pretty good. Those things are perfect for them to rip off their customers. An experienced mechanic doesn't need freaking 5 days to do this job, I reckon.
Thanks
 

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Pasting a copy of my post in another similar thread:

I finally got to the tensioner. I removed the air duct and was able to locate it. I checked if the tensioner was torqued correctly using a torque wrench. I then removed it. I cleaned it and I was able to empty it completely. It gave in easy, oil was a bit dirty. I did an oil change recently (less than 2000km). I soaked it in oil and pressed it several times untill it was impossible to retract it anymore. I put it back, torqued it to spec (40nm) and surpriiise the rolling marbles noise is almost gone. There is a very faint noise sometimes but nothing compared to how it was before. Some pics of the operation coming later
 

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Update: Rolling marbles are audible when RPM is around 1500 or high load 5000+
I will either get the updated tensioner or the manual one.
 

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Hi i have a 2004 3.2 VR6 Touareg 174,000KM
I can hear the rolling marbles o-death noise from the back of the engine, however when i use the VCDS (OBDeleven) value 208 & 209 are both -4 Deg KW.
could this mean its the tensioner ?
 

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There are two other issues I'm investigating regarding this noise: variable intake shift rod bushing and knock sensors. The intake rod will start making a noise if the bushings are bad. The knock sensors can create knock under load. This happens to me when I floor it.
As for vcds timing check there are other things to take into consideration before considering the values you see as indicative of good or bad timing values.
Are you running on low octane fuel? If so try to run on a high octane fuel to see if it makes a difference. I'll be chaning the shifter rod bushing (gruvenparts.com) next week and I'll report back.

https://www.gruvenparts.com/12v-and-24v-vr6-intake-manifold-bushings/

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