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How many broke your headlight crank??

16K views 31 replies 19 participants last post by  saund10295  
#1 ·
I just broke mine the other day trying to install my headlight bulb on the passenger side. It cracked while I was putting it back. Well, even though its in unlocked position, my headlight snaps back in so I'm not too worried about it. How many of you broke it yourself and have you changed it or just left it as is??

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#4 ·
Better question is how many researched this before they went ahead and tried.
Put some pressure on the unit It makes it so much easier.
 
#8 ·
Apply WD40 24 hours before you try moving it. And apply pressure to the headlamp unit to ease the pressure on the crank itslef.
 
#9 ·
Funny you should say that...I wanted my body shop guy to plastic weld the crack in mine.
Said he had to get the lamp unit out first, but the gimp put too much pressure on the crank and broke off the whole lot (...like the pic above).
His excuse was the mechanics are seized and he had to put huge force on it, but it wouldn't budge. I could see WD40 all over the place.

So rather than admit he broke it, he tried to hide he did it by leaving the broken piece under the bonnet to rattle around...GIMP !
When I opened up the bonnet to see what was done, he said he did it on purpose to get out the light unit, and that it needs a new housing (about €65 ex labour).
So what was supposed to be a quick last minute job, is costing me much more.
When we get the new one we're going to grease the hell out both of them, to try stop this happening again.

<OK, END RANT>
 
#10 ·
So I had to replace a bulb in the RHS light this weekend and read all the warnings and tried VERY carefully to remove the light. I wiggled it a bit, sprayed some WD40, put pressure on etc, etc. In the end I got the light out without breaking anything but then saw how dirty it was underneath the light, so I took the LHS one out as well for cleaning.

After cleaning both lights and trays, and replacing the bulb, I put the lights back in and guess what... I broke the TOOL putting the RHS one back in!!! :anger: It split open at the hole where the allen key goes through. I cut the end off, drilled a new hole and refitted the allen key, so now my tool is about 1/2" shorter.

Anyways, I think next time I'd rather use a small socket and ratchet than the VW tool.

I think the trick to not breaking the mechanism is to make sure you do NOT put any bending (sideways) force on the lock when turning. Make sure you ONLY apply a torque, if that makes any sense... The SLIGHTEST little bit of bending (forwards, backwards, left or right) will break the mechanism as in the pic above.

BTW, while the lights were out, I fiddled with the adjusting screws. Dunno how I'm supposed to adjust these lights when they're in the car, as THESE mechanisms are also VERY flimsy an look like they'll also split open the moment you try adjusting. Luckily my aim is OK, so I don't need to adjust them. :mad:
 
#11 ·
Speaking of headlight aim....I put in new Philips Xtreme bulbs in yesterday. (supposed to be the best) Can't see and difference in them at all !
My aim seems to be a bit low...anyone know how the headlight aim is adjusted ?
The headlight adjuster is at the max.
I'd like to bring them up a small bit, but within legal limits.

thanks/Eric.
 
#13 ·
#15 ·
Does anyone know if this is covered under warranty or not? I've replaced the bulbs at least three times now and am familiar with these being a PITA...in any event, I snapped the passenger side this morning trying to get the unit out so now the lamp assemblty is essentially stuck.
I was looking at grinding away the rest of the bracket to allow access to the small gear mechanism but it doesn't look like I could possibly get a set of vice grips in there as Denver Bill noted.
 
#16 ·
Well, I ended up simply taking a dremel and removing most of the broken bracket that secures the secondary link to the headlamp.

I can confirm that when you get this extra plastic out of the way you can easily access the primary link bar and turn it without a problem with a set of pliers to pivot the locking mechanism and release the lamp housing.

To me this is now easier than going to my trunk to retrieve the special tool. Eliminating the second geared link from this mechanism makes applying the release torque much simpler and direct and the bar releases (and locks back in place) with very little force/effort.
 
#17 ·
Any chance of a photo of the "modification" please?
 
#18 ·
If you look at the very first image/post in this thread, I pretty much just removed the plastic to expose the small geared shaft that you can see at the bottom of the photo. I could still take a picture if necessary but you basically just want to get the plastic gusset that used to hold the crank arm out of the way so you can gain direct access to the geared shaft head, allowing you to grab it with pliers.
 
#19 ·
THank you for that. Yes I can see what you'e done.

I think this will be a welcome thread for a number of people who have broken the original shaft.

For anyone reading this later, please put plenty of easing oil - WD40 here in the UK - on the mechanism a good 24 hours before you try to use the special tool to release the headlight.

I do mine every few months now regardless of whether I need to release the lights or not, and I can get the headlight out in 20 seconds from lifting the bonnet - as long as I can connect with the lttle clip you have to press down to finally release the light unit. Sometimes I can do it first time and others . . . grrrr!

But if you can't, don't get cross and try to force anything, just walk away, do something else for a bit and then come back to it.
 
#21 ·
ok...i just broke my headlight crank...the hex bolt snapped/sheared off. Now I can't turn the crank to release my headlight.

Is this piece easily replaced or do I need a new headlight unit?
 
#22 ·
Have you looked at the first posts on this thread?

They used Mole grips, the UK brand name, or vice or even vise grips in the USA to grab and turn what's left to release the headlamp.

From what I remember you can get a new headlight mount assembly but it is a front bumper off job to replace it. Suggest you use the search funtion on here and here too at www.mytreg.com
 
#25 ·
Yup! Vise grips. On a 60 kilodollar car. :) Just to get even I used the same pair that I used when I worked on my 79 Rabbit L. :)
 
#26 ·
Mine went just fine. Blow out or rinse out the area between the headlight capsule the tray it slides on.. Then put some silicone grease on the plastic gears. No WD40 or anything else with with solvents on plastic gears. Pay attention to the stickers on each side which tell you which way is open vs close. Firm, gentle and go slow. It went just fine. Clean out the contacts and the headlight receiver tray while you have it out. Also put a thin coat of spark plug boot grease around the electrical connector rubber.
 
#27 ·
just bought 2005 T-Reg V6...both headlight release gears broken. When I put the vise grips on the primary link bar I am going to turn left or right? Just want to avoid breaking if I turn wrong way....
Thanks in advance for replies.
 
#28 ·
Looking at the car from the front I would twist anti-clockwise on the left hand headlight and clockwise on the right hand headlight. It might be the other way around though!! :)