Got this fault and the other "fault running gear-workshop" last week and due to all the read on this and the fear of dumping money in the wrong direction I have been playing doctor with my t-reg.
Thankfully I have access to my friends shop and their code reader so I've been able to read the crap the t-reg is spitting in my face.
So long as I keep the level in Sport, I'm ok, no leaks just can't operate the levels anywhere's else.
after a few days of code checking, clearing and road testing I've recorded no less than about 8 different ones that I have listed below, some of the script on the reader is muddled hence the ???marks so you know, its a great reader--autoland scientech but it must have some sort of issue in it's grammar/text
02250--function deactivation;valve duty cycle
01400-suspension level control
00778-steering angle sensor(g85) open circuit
01772-signal from level control pressure sensor (g291) value??circui to another va??
01400-suspension level control no fault identified
01770-temperature sensor for level control pump/compressor (g290)??ground??not sw./short t??
09158-no description
02250-Function deactivation;valve duty cycle-value of resistance too small
I thought I would just see if battery condition is the culprit, just been playing around with my multimeter and pulling certain fuses to see the different load and rest state for battery voltages today
First I pulled some main factors---headlamps, interior lamps, electric steering and proceeded to a test drive, unfortunately the mil was back so I decided to perform a function by function non running battery test
I have found the following--
with headlamp fuses removed:
at rest not in circuit(ground disconnected)-12.6 volts
at rest with ground connected and door open-12.4 volts
ground connected and ignition on -12.10 Volts
Running with all fuses -13.85 V (headlamp fuses in)
Headlamp fuses in:
Door open and ignition on- 11.97 Volts
am I looking at a problematic battery here?
the other day I used a conventional battery load tester and as per the 10-15 second load I never read below 11.5 Volts-
I don't know whether the same battery load test applies to the main house battery v.s a starting battery
Don't want to throw money in the wrong direction
chime in please
Thankfully I have access to my friends shop and their code reader so I've been able to read the crap the t-reg is spitting in my face.
So long as I keep the level in Sport, I'm ok, no leaks just can't operate the levels anywhere's else.
after a few days of code checking, clearing and road testing I've recorded no less than about 8 different ones that I have listed below, some of the script on the reader is muddled hence the ???marks so you know, its a great reader--autoland scientech but it must have some sort of issue in it's grammar/text
02250--function deactivation;valve duty cycle
01400-suspension level control
00778-steering angle sensor(g85) open circuit
01772-signal from level control pressure sensor (g291) value??circui to another va??
01400-suspension level control no fault identified
01770-temperature sensor for level control pump/compressor (g290)??ground??not sw./short t??
09158-no description
02250-Function deactivation;valve duty cycle-value of resistance too small
I thought I would just see if battery condition is the culprit, just been playing around with my multimeter and pulling certain fuses to see the different load and rest state for battery voltages today
First I pulled some main factors---headlamps, interior lamps, electric steering and proceeded to a test drive, unfortunately the mil was back so I decided to perform a function by function non running battery test
I have found the following--
with headlamp fuses removed:
at rest not in circuit(ground disconnected)-12.6 volts
at rest with ground connected and door open-12.4 volts
ground connected and ignition on -12.10 Volts
Running with all fuses -13.85 V (headlamp fuses in)
Headlamp fuses in:
Door open and ignition on- 11.97 Volts
am I looking at a problematic battery here?
the other day I used a conventional battery load tester and as per the 10-15 second load I never read below 11.5 Volts-
I don't know whether the same battery load test applies to the main house battery v.s a starting battery
Don't want to throw money in the wrong direction
chime in please
