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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there an way to get the plug out of the headlight housing to rewire the headlights to get rid of old brittle insulation?
 

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IMO, by the time you disassemble the headlight enough to properly fix the wiring, the lens is off. At that point you can also replace the reflector bowl. Might as well send the lens off the be professionally polished and UV re-coated. The little project has became a big project.

TLDR: These headlights are (imo) an obvious manf. defect that leads to a safety issue, but the responsibility has been dumped onto the owner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
IMO, by the time you disassemble the headlight enough to properly fix the wiring, the lens is off. At that point you can also replace the reflector bowl. Might as well send the lens off the be professionally polished and UV re-coated. The little project has became a big project.

TLDR: These headlights are (imo) an obvious manf. defect that leads to a safety issue, but the responsibility has been dumped onto the owner.
The rest of the car is not nice enough for new headlights, especially at the cost of HIDs

Mine also seems to be dual projectors, not just Projector HID and reflector Halogen.

My goal was to get the wiring harness out to rebuild, or at least use some liquid tape and "unbundling" to get rid of any shorts, but the rear plug is the trick. You don't need to take the lens off, as the access with the ballast removed is not bad.
I can get to three of the four clips holding it in.
Maybe I can make a tool to get to the last clip?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Change of plan.
I am going to clip the wires off each plug one at a time leaving enough pigtail to solder to and use heat0shrink over each pigtail.
Shouldn't take me more than an house or so a side.
Not as neat as a full rewire, but a lot safer than using liquid tape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Change of plan.
I am going to clip the wires off each plug one at a time leaving enough pigtail to solder to and use heat0shrink over each pigtail.
Shouldn't take me more than an house or so a side.
Not as neat as a full rewire, but a lot safer than using liquid tape.
Second Change of Plan:
I drilled a small hole over the last pin holding in the rear plug. That allowed me to pull it out and have teh rest of te harness follow through teh plug opening.
Now I can do a neater job with the pigtails and heat-shrink.
Of course I have to wait for the wire to show up from Amazon on Monday.

The wires did not look as bad when I started, but every time you touch or move then more insulation comes off.

244688
 

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I think you may be the first person to have actually removed and laid out the wiring to photograph it.

That insulation is in an appalling condition and there must be hundreds, if not thousands, of other Touaregs with wiring just like it around the world.
 

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Sorry I did not see this sooner. The lack of experience of some of our constant posters really shows with their lack of personal experience.

You will cause more damage by trying to rewire the harness when all you need is to do is recover the good wire and insulation. I have done this on several of my cars. If you need some of this split loom let me know and I will send you all you need for $7 shipped.
244691
 

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Sorry I did not see this sooner. The lack of experience of some of our constant posters really shows with their lack of personal experience.

You will cause more damage by trying to rewire the harness when all you need is to do is recover the good wire and insulation. I have done this on several of my cars. If you need some of this split loom let me know and I will send you all you need for $7 shipped. View attachment 244691
I thought about that.
The wire bundle between the rear plug and the plug to the ballast is very tight, and I don't think it will work with any split or spiral loom I have ever seen.

I am not sure what you mean by causing more damage. (Assuming you know how to solder and use heat shrink.)
 

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The loom I have works, but it’s your car and choice. Sounds like you have made your choice. Not what I would do (I have reworked a V10tdi into a Corvette) but you may know better. Just sharing my experience. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The loom I have works, but it’s your car and choice. Sounds like you have made your choice. Not what I would do (I have reworked a V10tdi into a Corvette) but you may know better. Just sharing my experience. Good luck
If the first one does not go as well as I expect, I'll take you up on the loom.
The five wires between the two plugs are about 4 inches long and make a complete loop in a very small space since the ballast connector sits right below the incoming plug.
 

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Crimp and heat shrink is the way to make harness repairs. I don’t agree with what you are doing but you may have experience that differs from mine. Good luck.
 

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See post 20 in this thread. I did this 4 years ago and still OK.
It is relatively easy to get the harmess out of the assembly but a pain to get it back exactly as it was. So close enough is OK.
Replacing Insulation
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
See post 20 in this thread. I did this 4 years ago and still OK.
It is relatively easy to get the harmess out of the assembly but a pain to get it back exactly as it was. So close enough is OK.
Replacing Insulation
How did you get the rear plug out?

I assume the hard part was getting the rear plug and the ballast connector?
 

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I assume the hard part was getting the rear plug and the ballast connector?
I have the bi-xenon headlights. As I recall I did not have any problem separating the components.
The hard part was getting the harness unclipped inside the assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have the bi-xenon headlights. As I recall I did not have any problem separating the components.
The hard part was getting the harness unclipped inside the assembly.
I have the dual projects (HID and Halogen).
I think they are Bi-Zenon, because it looks like both a shutter solenoid and aiming motor.
I did not want to split the case, getting most everything unhooked was OK, except for the rear plug.
I ended up drilling a small hole to get to the one clip that I could not get to through the access hole and removing the ballast.
 

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That looks decent, which is better than most of the insulation fixes that have been posted.

There are many ways to fix this issue. Once you have the harness out, you can dip the wires into liquid tape being careful that the wires do not touch until dry. You can cover the wires with heat shrink. You can use pin removal tools and totally replace the wires or heat shrink the wires without cutting. There is even a high temp stretchable silicon tape that you could individually wrap each wire in. I would pass on regular electrical tape.

I never have ran across that small wiring split loom mentioned above.

The small wiring harness that plugs into the back of the headlight and the main wiring harness... it has the rotten insulation issue also. So, you have a second problem that will surface later. That harness is easily available on the aftermarket.

Let us know how putting the headlight harness back goes.

The only really bad method is to just try to dump liquid insulation inside the headlight, hoping you will cover all the wiring. That method will always fail as the wires must be kept separated, until they are dry.

I hope the hid reflectors are in decent shape. The only reason that I don't recommend wiring repair anymore is that it seems the reflectors seem to go bad with or soon after the insulation fails. If the reflector dies, you are left with working Mr Magoo headlights.
 

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This is a spare car right now, so until I know what it costs to fix all the problems, I don't mind partial fixes to make it reliable, so I can get to the next issue.
Right now the lights have to be good enough to pass inspection.
 

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Well Lol. I didn't know all you wanted was to get past the inspection. Then you should be good to go.

If the vehicle does little night driving, then you probably got a permanent headlight solution. Your wires look good and I expect that they will work properly.

Speaking of bad reflectors, here is how you tell on the T1. When new, you can turn on the foglights and you just get a little bit of extra side light. Looking straight ahead, you can barely see the foglights, even when turning the fogs on and off and looking for the change.

At the mid stage, the foglights do add some extra light to the front view. The headlights are still doing OK and you have decent (but reduced) light output at this stage.

When the reflector is dead, you turn on the foglights and are impressed by how much extra light they provide. IMO, this is when you have to do something as the headlights are useless at this point.

On the T1, you can use VCDS to activate the 6 gun salute (adds the halogen high beam bulb to the hid high beam.) This really helps in the mid stage and the later stages. Alas, you can not run high beams in many circumstances. But you can run the fogs all the time to help.

Gets on soap box and repeats 2011 rant. Yep. Thank you Gov'ner. You are so right. Headlights that don't put out light or that short out randomly are 100% not a safety issue. No need for a fix or a recall or nothin' like that.

But I also remember the years that VW declared that the Touareg AdBlue system was not part of the 7 year US emission warranty and not covered under the emission warranty. Yep. Sure. You betcha. No problem.
 
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