You'll know when it happens, car jiggles under your feet. Get under the car, grab the rear driveshaft as it comes out of transfer case, push up and pull down. If it moves anymore than a 1/4 or 1/2 inch it's on it's way out. When mine failed I could move it a good inch or two up and down.
Has pretty much everyone replaced drive shaft?
I have been doing a lot of reading on here as to the drive shaft bearing topic. My car is at 74,XXX miles. Some funny noises when cold in parking lots at low speed but everything else is extremely smooth and has not shown any signs of viberation. So is it sure to fail eventually and is there particular noises to listen for that will hint towards it? I just like to know everything that has a chance of going wrong. And at 74k is there much else that I can look forward to other than timing belt that will come very soon? My treg has been babied by the previous owner. No wear anywhere and I myself treat it very well when driving. I do drive it fast but never slamming on breaks or slamming gears from a slow rolling stop.
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I feel like I've been rolling the dice. Currently at 90k miles with the original component.
are you guys meaning shake the driveshaft ... to see if theres play??
if it has play in it can't the ''U-Joints be changed out with the carrier-bearing?
or does the entire driveshaft have to be replaced?
if it has play in it can't the ''U-Joints be changed out with the carrier-bearing?
or does the entire driveshaft have to be replaced?
I started a X-thread on the Aussie sub-forum here:
www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f67/drive-shaft-bearing-failure-49135-3.html
This was X-referred to the current Nth American thread on drive shaft failure (do a forum search). I made some posts about what I perceive is the problem. IMO, the centre carrier is the likely culprit and rubber fatigue leads to bearing failure, which then leads to the drive-shaft problem. The way I see this is if you're like me and now know about the extent of the problem from reading posts about drive shaft failure, then either get under the vehicle and check out the carrier for fatigue evidence, or if you have done a few miles/klms and feel out of your 'comfort zone' with this topic, then maybe get a new carrier with bearing and replace it. It's not expensive. I already have a spare part and will take solice that I can replace the carrier when I feel it is showing any sign of rubber fatigue. Preventive maintenance, that's all it takes IMO.
www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f67/drive-shaft-bearing-failure-49135-3.html
This was X-referred to the current Nth American thread on drive shaft failure (do a forum search). I made some posts about what I perceive is the problem. IMO, the centre carrier is the likely culprit and rubber fatigue leads to bearing failure, which then leads to the drive-shaft problem. The way I see this is if you're like me and now know about the extent of the problem from reading posts about drive shaft failure, then either get under the vehicle and check out the carrier for fatigue evidence, or if you have done a few miles/klms and feel out of your 'comfort zone' with this topic, then maybe get a new carrier with bearing and replace it. It's not expensive. I already have a spare part and will take solice that I can replace the carrier when I feel it is showing any sign of rubber fatigue. Preventive maintenance, that's all it takes IMO.
It's the main carrier bearing that's the problem, not the UJs.are you guys meaning shake the driveshaft ... to see if theres play??
if it has play in it can't the ''U-Joints be changed out with the carrier-bearing?
or does the entire driveshaft have to be replaced?
Take a bit of time to read the threads on this and you'll see that you either get a new shaft if you go to a VW dealer or you get it repaired by yourself for $100, or fixed by an indie for a third of the VW cost.
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Search the site for "Touareg Driveshaft support bearing". Ask seller some questions about your model as I'm not sure about the V8. CHEAP!
I was under the impression that the bearing wasnt able to be replaced and a complete re and re of the shaft was needed??
If you mean remove and replace the prop/drive shaft, you haven't been reading the posts!
You can if you want, but there's cheaper options.
You can if you want, but there's cheaper options.
Yes Thats good info, however I am disabled and can't do the repairs myself I wish I could, but any information I get on here I can darn sure tell the Dealer what I want done as for as repairs, little common sense goes a long way....if I took it in to replace the carrier bearing I'd have them replace the U-joints also...if they take it apart or take the drive shaft off why not replace the U'j's ?It's the main carrier bearing that's the problem, not the UJs.
Take a bit of time to read the threads on this and you'll see that you either get a new shaft if you go to a VW dealer or you get it repaired by yourself for $100, or fixed by an indie for a third of the VW cost.
but I'm not sure maybe theres a bracket that can be removed and drop the d-shaft down enough to get to the carrier bearing and knock it out? I don't know.
I had a Toyota Tundra and they replaced the carrier bearing and also did the U'joints at the same time....usally the u joints will make a pop sound when you put it in gear the Tundry did not but the carrier bearing was worn so much causing viberations....but I had them to replace the u'joints at the same time...maybe the Touareg is Different?
If i remember correctly the treg driveshaft doesn't have U-joints; however, I remember reading a thread where someone made the conversion...
For what it's worth, mine was replaced at 76k miles, and my gf's at about 78k miles
For what it's worth, mine was replaced at 76k miles, and my gf's at about 78k miles
@gmorgerman
Most people do not have the capability to replace the bearing themselvs. That is the exception, so we'll park that one.
A VW dealer will only put on a new prop/drive shaft. That's the way they're programmed. They don't refurb.. It's VW factory parts or nothing. If you find one who will do a refurb, tell the world! So let's park that one too.
IMHO in your case this is the best route: there are now two or three firms in the US who offer refurbished prop/drive shafts for a third of the VW price for a new one. You'll find their details in several of the prop/drive shaft threads.
Then you find a good local garage - not a VW dealer - to do the work.
You order the shaft for delivery to that garage.
They then take the old shaft out and pop the new one in.
Then they return the old shaft to the refurb people from whom you ordered your new shaft as these are done on an exchange basis so the refurb company has something to refurb for the next customer.
Most people do not have the capability to replace the bearing themselvs. That is the exception, so we'll park that one.
A VW dealer will only put on a new prop/drive shaft. That's the way they're programmed. They don't refurb.. It's VW factory parts or nothing. If you find one who will do a refurb, tell the world! So let's park that one too.
IMHO in your case this is the best route: there are now two or three firms in the US who offer refurbished prop/drive shafts for a third of the VW price for a new one. You'll find their details in several of the prop/drive shaft threads.
Then you find a good local garage - not a VW dealer - to do the work.
You order the shaft for delivery to that garage.
They then take the old shaft out and pop the new one in.
Then they return the old shaft to the refurb people from whom you ordered your new shaft as these are done on an exchange basis so the refurb company has something to refurb for the next customer.
When mine went out at 61K I did the research and discovered you can't replace just the carrier bearing yourself. You would need to remove the rear shaft have the old bearing pressed off, the new one pressed on and then have the drive shaft re-balanced, then you could re-install it. IMO I found this is more expensive than just buying a re-manufactured drive shaft which you can bolt on yourself or have a local garage do it. I got mine from vortexauto out of Miami. Total cost after I got my core charge back was $400, but I did the swap myself. I'm sure a local garage would charge a couple hours labor to install it, it took me four hours but I don't have a lift and am not a mechanic.
Two hours is OK - some garages do it in 90 minutes.
Scroll down for pic:If i remember correctly the treg driveshaft doesn't have U-joints; however, I remember reading a thread where someone made the conversion...
http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f62/drive-shaft-bush-2004-v6-18519.html
Thanks for the good information. I really just want to know if it is a sure fail part. I have owned many BMW's and there are different models with different things that most likely going fail. I like knowing worst case rather than driving around everyday then having unexpected surprises. If failure does happen I hope I am able to find one for a decent price. My father owns a body shop and our mechanic is awesome. Has done all the work on my parents bimmers and mine for years now. The only time my car goes somewhere else is if it has a factory warranty in this case it does not.@gmorgerman
Most people do not have the capability to replace the bearing themselvs. That is the exception, so we'll park that one.
A VW dealer will only put on a new prop/drive shaft. That's the way they're programmed. They don't refurb.. It's VW factory parts or nothing. If you find one who will do a refurb, tell the world! So let's park that one too.
IMHO in your case this is the best route: there are now two or three firms in the US who offer refurbished prop/drive shafts for a third of the VW price for a new one. You'll find their details in several of the prop/drive shaft threads.
Then you find a good local garage - not a VW dealer - to do the work.
You order the shaft for delivery to that garage.
They then take the old shaft out and pop the new one in.
Then they return the old shaft to the refurb people from whom you ordered your new shaft as these are done on an exchange basis so the refurb company has something to refurb for the next customer.
You could have saved everyone a lot of time if you'd explained this up front!
Yes, it is a likely to fail part. For the 100 bucks it costs, get your mechanic to change it.
Yes, it is a likely to fail part. For the 100 bucks it costs, get your mechanic to change it.
I'm not sure I understood here. When you say 100 bucks, what part exactly are you implying be changed? Do you mean a whole refurbished driveshaft? I'm really all up and a true believer on preventive maintenance. My drive shaft has never failed so based on my reads here, I'm sure it is only a matter of time, although everything still looks tight under there. Just to reconfirm what you wrote, in a nutshell, what do you recommend I exactly replace for that peace of mind? If it is only $100, I'll get to it right now!You could have saved everyone a lot of time if you'd explained this up front!
Yes, it is a likely to fail part. For the 100 bucks it costs, get your mechanic to change it.
I second thatI'm not sure I understood here. When you say 100 bucks, what part exactly are you implying be changed? Do you mean a whole refurbished driveshaft? I'm really all up and a true believer on preventive maintenance. My drive shaft has never failed so based on my reads here, I'm sure it is only a matter of time, although everything still looks tight under there. Just to reconfirm what you wrote, in a nutshell, what do you recommend I exactly replace for that peace of mind? If it is only $100, I'll get to it right now!
You can buy the new carrier bearing for around $100. In order to have it installed your looking at a few hundred more in labor to drop the shaft, press the new bearing on, re-balance shaft, re-install, etc. There is no $100 fix for this problem unless you own a press and do all the labor yourself. I went the re-manufactured drive shaft route which left me with minimal down-time.
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