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Thanks Minim, saw a YT video from a Porsche mechanic doing something similar to a mk1 Cayenne and wondered if my wires are frazzled too.

Haven't been brave enough to remove the sezts for a look. Plus I don't have a heat gun. But it sounds straightforward once you get down to the wires?

If I did it myself how would I know what gauge wire to get?
I'd check them if you had a leak. Better to be safe than sorry :p

You need a soldering iron to cut away the bad wire and resolder. For heat shrink tubing with glue I've used a lighter or a hairdryer. It doesn't take much to heat it.

regarding gauge I don't recall but If I where to guess there was some 0.75mm2, one 1mm2 and a 6mm2. All my wires were long enough to be cut and spliced so I didn't have to buy more wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks Minim,

Once I get the new rubber seals installed under the roof bar rails this is likely to be my next 'project '.
 

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Thanks Minim, saw a YT video from a Porsche mechanic doing something similar to a mk1 Cayenne and wondered if my wires are frazzled too.

Haven't been brave enough to remove the sezts for a look. Plus I don't have a heat gun. But it sounds straightforward once you get down to the wires?

If I did it myself how would I know what gauge wire to get?
I can tell when the canbus wire splice goes bad just by looking at various VCDS scans. When the canbus wire corrodes, it sets off a specific set of "random" errors that are only seen when the network is damaged.

I have not fixed mine yet. If I was to open it up to check / look, I would fix it. It makes no sense to do the hour of work to check the wire and not fix it.

There are other wires that are repaired while you are in there, but the canbus wire is the only one that causes a problem. But (once again) if you have spent the time to dig out the wiring harness... why would you not fix all the problem splices.

If your scans are looking good, wait to fix the splice either (1) when it acts up or (2) when you have got all the other errors repaired.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Am getting anywhere from 8 to 18 fault codes per scan. All but the air quality sensor clear but they show up again on the next scan even if its done only minutes later.

Faulty/oxidized wires sound like a strong contender for the culprit.

Think that this is definitely my next project.

Like you said no point stripping down and not being ready to deal. Will have to get solder fun and all the bits
 

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Lol now I can add to my list a few other things of common faults. Exhaust manifolds are both cracked at cylinder 1,5,6 and 10 and camshafts are worn. Engine is out ^^
 

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Lol now I can add to my list a few other things of common faults. Exhaust manifolds are both cracked at cylinder 1,5,6 and 10 and camshafts are worn. Engine is out ^^
If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all.

:LOL:

 

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Lol now I can add to my list a few other things of common faults. Exhaust manifolds are both cracked at cylinder 1,5,6 and 10 and camshafts are worn. Engine is out ^^
If it is any consolation, my engine is out too with both pumps (Fuel and Tandem) needing replacement. Also both exhaust manifolds are cracked and all 10 going to get a full weld around the "neck" just behind each flange face. Thanks to help and guidance from Dragline1570 on here, the repair is well documented and a proven success to date. Here's a couple of photos.

Pete.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Here is an update on my wiring splice repair project...

I can't believe i didn't spot the plastic side pieces of the front windscreen were so far out of position when I bought the Treg. Am choosing to believe they have come away while driving.

237931


The gap in there must be letting some water into the front footwell. The seal across the top of the windscreen isn't flush or level along the width of the vehicle and is also coming away from the uppermost part of the Treg body allowing water in behind the top of the windscreen too.

The Autoglass chap is coming tomorrow with a backup screen but the plan is to remove and refit the current screen (Pilkington) if it comes out in one piece.

Once done, the interior will then be able to dry out and I can make a start on the splices. I have bungee corded the rear passenger carpets together which gives loads of room to access the length of the harness on each side of the vehicle.

The seats and driver's carpet are out. Driver's side carpet was sodden and the foam section under the pedals is soaked.


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The tape wrapping is damp so will be removing that tomorrow in between the thinderstorms and torrential rain we are having in the NW.

I've pierced the rubber seal to allow for water that gets in here to drain out so it has somewhere to go.

Taking the seats out was a pain in the butt. Took me about two hours to remove the five seats.

12 bolts in total for the front seats, Four bolts for the seat runners, another four for seat to seat frame and yet another four for the seat frame to floor.

Bult like a Panzer tank comes to mind. LOL

Will do a write up on the whole process once completed.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Have finally got access to rhe cabin floor wiring harnessses. First splice I came to was both corroded and the wires had also separated from one another.

View attachment 238177

Have twisted them together so there's no confusion when the soldering starts tomorrow.

Also found a lone wolf with an oxidised end. Its a red wire with a yellow stripe. There's no other half to it along the remainder of the harness so am guessing that it may have come out of this splice which has three separate wires in it already?

View attachment 238178

View attachment 238179

If anyone could point me in right direction it would be appreciated.
 

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There is absolutely nothing wrong with that factory splice. As long as you leave the bottom of the Touareg flooded, the signal will use the water to complete the circuit. See, those VW Engineers thought of everything!

/sarc
 

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Have finally got access to rhe cabin floor wiring harnessses. First splice I came to was both corroded and the wires had also separated from one another.

View attachment 238177

Have twisted them together so there's no confusion when the soldering starts tomorrow.

Also found a lone wolf with an oxidised end. Its a red wire with a yellow stripe. There's no other half to it along the remainder of the harness so am guessing that it may have come out of this splice which has three separate wires in it already?

View attachment 238178

View attachment 238179

If anyone could point me in right direction it would be appreciated.
this is from a 2003 V10. Maybe the picture help? I fixed all the splices there. I think there is one more you didn't spot further up against the firewall.
238180
 

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Here are VW_lover_2001 other pictures.

If anyone has the front seat removed, can you look at your wiring harness and possibly tell VW_lover_2001 how the harness is wired?

EDIT: great pic minim. That was fast.

Also found a lone wolf with an oxidised end. Its a red wire with a yellow stripe. There's no other half to it along the remainder of the harness so am guessing that it may have come out of this splice which has three separate wires in it already?

......

 

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Discussion Starter #33
Hi Minim,

Thanks for the picture. It's a great starting point as I now have an idea of which wires to start with.

I did notice two sets of splices just inside the firewall above the gas pedal. Both wires are green/yellow I think? Really tough to get to and not much wire to work with.

I stopped looking for more splices when the first one came apart in my hand lol

Didn't want to lose track and end up mixing up the wires tomorrow. Will find one splice and deal with it and then move on to the next.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Would l8ke some advice please.

Some of the splices look clean and still waterproof. Should i rejoin everything or just the corroded splices?

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