[Larry Bartowski]

Hello folks. I'm new to the forum as well as having a touareg. I recently purchased a 2006 v8. Just got the obdeleven doodad as opposed to the vagcom to save a bit of money. I have just a few problems with my new vehicle so I thought codes would be a good place to start.

1. Tends to wind up a bit far off the line. Almost 3k rpm at times. Have done the throttle adaptation relearn to no avail.

2. Kessy doesn't seem to work at all.
3. Dealer unable to program more than one key at a time.
4. Steering wheel doesn't come forward when I start car. Will go back to exit postion when turned off.
5. Mystery 3 position switch in armrest. Doesn't look factory. Though does look installed well.
6. Steering doesn't seem to return very fast or well after turning. Maybe expecting to much?
7. Rear cam there. Doesn't work.
8. Battery died. Replaced. (Not as hard as I heard) possible bad alternator cable? Dash gauge reads 13-14v @ idle.

I hope you fellas can help out. I'd be glad to help out here at this forum. I have a feeling I'll be here a lot for a while.

Thanks!

 

[alhutch]

Larry,

You've attempted to cover a lot of ground with this post. It might help to break it up in smaller chunks to solicit help.

By "wind up", what exactly do you mean? Like tranny slipping or something else? Regarding Kessy, why do you think it isn't working. What behavior are you seeing (or not seeing) to lead you to this conclusion?

I don't find these cars to be fast at "self centering" after a turn, but I'm running A/T tires. My '05 V8 reads 13.9 volts at idle, so sounds like your alternator is charging properly. What was the age of your previous battery?

 

[Fourdiesel]

Can you do a picture of the 'mystery' switch? On the console I presume?
Mine has a three position 'roller' switch that selects "sport", "auto", and "comfort" settings. It is in the center of the console just aft of the gear selector. It selects the dampening and ride height characteristics of the air suspension.

 

[FSJ Guy]

You will have to go into each controller and see what it is or isn't doing. RE your steering wheel, try performing an output test to verify function. I have no idea how to do that with the off-brand readers.

The genuine RossTech VCDS has good support on their website and forums. If you get the "Real McCoy", you may have better luck with getting additional help. I think many of us use VCDS. It *is* $$$, but will pay for itself easily.

Good luck!

 

[Larry Bartowski]

Larry,

You've attempted to cover a lot of ground with this post. It might help to break it up in smaller chunks to solicit help.

By "wind up", what exactly do you mean? Like tranny slipping or something else? Regarding Kessy, why do you think it isn't working. What behavior are you seeing (or not seeing) to lead you to this conclusion?

I don't find these cars to be fast at "self centering" after a turn, but I'm running A/T tires. My '05 V8 reads 13.9 volts at idle, so sounds like your alternator is charging properly. What was the age of your previous battery?

Yeah. I thought I might be trying to get 10lbs in a 5lbs bag with this one. I'm still trying to get used to the forum layout and where things go.

By wind up i do mean it feels like similar to slipping but more like shift points. I've done the adaptation. Didn't seem like it did much. I think I had a low voltage situation overall in this thing when I bought it. I've since remedied that. I understand that this can cause lots of different issues with these and other vehicles with tons of electronics.

The kessy system doesn't seem to work at all. Though this is easily due to operator error. I've read all the material u could find. And watched all the info I could. Seems it may just not work on my vehicle, I'm sure from one of the many codes I have yet to investigate. The local dealer tells me there is a problem with the immobilizer unit. But has been unable to tell me what it is.

Thank you for the reply. I sure hope you guys can help me out.

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[Larry Bartowski]

You will have to go into each controller and see what it is or isn't doing. RE your steering wheel, try performing an output test to verify function. I have no idea how to do that with the off-brand readers.

The genuine RossTech VCDS has good support on their website and forums. If you get the "Real McCoy", you may have better luck with getting additional help. I think many of us use VCDS. It *is* $$$, but will pay for itself easily.

Good luck!

I think I will indeed go to Ross tech. I tried to save a bit since I don't really need to do all the fancy things people like to do with the vag com thingy. The obdeleven is a good tool but more suited for the gti crowd i think. The apps make programming very easy but there are none really for the touareg. The diagnostics seem very good including live info feed. But still i may just chalk that one up to a toy and move on to an actual tool.

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[Ionman]

I think I will indeed go to Ross tech. I tried to save a bit since I don't really need to do all the fancy things people like to do with the vag com thingy. The obdeleven is a good tool but more suited for the gti crowd i think. The apps make programming very easy but there are none really for the touareg. The diagnostics seem very good including live info feed. But still i may just chalk that one up to a toy and move on to an actual tool.

Like most, I've purchased the upgraded model VagCom 17, and could not be happier. It's an expensive toy, but it pays off after 2 or 3 uses in dealing with the nightmares. The freaking price dropped from $98 in less than 3 months due to newer software being release (not the cable). If you're a DIY and self-taught mechanic to save money, this is definitely a toy to grab.

 

[Larry Bartowski]

Can you do a picture of the 'mystery' switch? On the console I presume?
Mine has a three position 'roller' switch that selects "sport", "auto", and "comfort" settings. It is in the center of the console just aft of the gear selector. It selects the dampening and ride height characteristics of the air suspension.

Here is the mystery switch. It does nothing as far as I can tell. I haven't traced the wires yet.

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[Ionman]

Here is the mystery switch. It does nothing as far as I can tell. I haven't traced the wires yet.

:surprise: That's no factory switch. Is this vehicle a second hand vehicle when you got it? Looks like a customized switch for dual settings, or on/off for something.

 

[Larry Bartowski]

:surprise: That's no factory switch. Is this vehicle a second hand vehicle when you got it? Looks like a customized switch for dual settings, or on/off for something.

Yes. Had two owners if I remember the papers right.

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[Ionman]

Yes. Had two owners if I remember the papers right.

This is my suspicion and opinion, without knowing where exactly it is, or where the wire may be going into, but that rig is too simple to be something critical. Dual option SPDT Oo-Off-On toggle switch, in my mind, acts as:

1. External lighting, such as LED for bottom to show off the Fast and Furious side, or top-forward lights when going off-roads. I did that with my other SUV.

2. Hidden position of the switch can also mean for some by-pass of the high vs low profile control for air suspension. This is a serious fast and furious driver.

3. By-pass controller for internal electronics, such as extra power diversion to the extra set of kickers (speakers) in the rear, or the simple sound system. I'm guilty for doing this mod in the past as well.

Overall, you have to trace that switch's wiring.

 

[Larry Bartowski]

This is my suspicion and opinion, without knowing where exactly it is, or where the wire may be going into, but that rig is too simple to be something critical. Dual option SPDT Oo-Off-On toggle switch, in my mind, acts as:

1. External lighting, such as LED for bottom to show off the Fast and Furious side, or top-forward lights when going off-roads. I did that with my other SUV.

2. Hidden position of the switch can also mean for some by-pass of the high vs low profile control for air suspension. This is a serious fast and furious driver.

3. By-pass controller for internal electronics, such as extra power diversion to the extra set of kickers (speakers) in the rear, or the simple sound system. I'm guilty for doing this mod in the past as well.

Overall, you have to trace that switch's wiring.

I'm thinking the third option. There are what look like cam mounts rear bumper and mid dash. The back up cam doesn't work either. Even though I can plainly see it.

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[Ionman]

I'm thinking the third option. There are what look like cam mounts rear bumper and mid dash. The back up cam doesn't work either. Even though I can plainly see it.

If there are cam mounts, with backup cam not work (which I highly doubt the rocker switch is used for that), the I can say the rocker switch may be live power feed for the cams, but why the 2nd option instead of the on-off rocker switch type. Spare option maybe? Yank that switch out and check the connection points.

 

[Larry Bartowski]

If there are cam mounts, with backup cam not work (which I highly doubt the rocker switch is used for that), the I can say the rocker switch may be live power feed for the cams, but why the 2nd option instead of the on-off rocker switch type. Spare option maybe? Yank that switch out and check the connection points.

Update:

Yanked the center console. Traced the wires to the head unit of course.
Spliced power from the 12v plug for the rear passengers. Then through the 3 position switch. Also found some snipped signal cable. I'm guessing an aux input. But I can't figure out why you'd need a 3 position power switch.

Also. Could be responsible for slow battery drain?

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[Ionman]

Spliced power from the 12v plug for the rear passengers. Then through the 3 position switch. Also found some snipped signal cable. I'm guessing an aux input. But I can't figure out why you'd need a 3 position power switch.

I believe I may have figured out this mod. Do this:

Check the fuse box on the driver side, and check blade fuse #1. What's the AMP rating on that fuse. That fuse is commonly controls the power to that 12V accessory port. OR, if it's the 12V accessory port near the 2 cup holders just behind the shifter, then that may be #21 (not sure since mine is an older model). If you have something greater than 10A, you got yourself some serious power loving device.

So, if the AMP is more than 10A, where the power line is diverted towards the head unit as well as possibly to the rear of the vehicle, your AUX power is not far from the truth. You have either an option for an kicker box like we've discussed before, or my suspicion is for something less like a LCD monitor for the head unit behind either the driver or passenger head rest. If it's a kicker/bass/new amp, there are plenty of live power feed in the rear trunk area to tap into.

But why the 3-rocker switch? Think about this for a moment. Power can be provided to the rear electronic devices when guests are there, power off if not needed, or power can be channeled to some more serious sound when you're alone, or need some ear destruction. Aside from that, if the old owner was something like me, I use that power feed for an inner cabin security system to monitor all sides of the vehicle for thefts/hit-and-run/dashcam recording fun. Power can be cut off to the center unit when not in use to prevent power drain. The second option is to turn on both the dashcam and center DVR unit. Cheapest option to mod compared to a $70 unit that allows you to automatically turn on and off after a certain amount of time. I hate pressing the power off every time I need to turn the dashcam unit off, since i have the power directly tapped into the fuse box using a tap-a-fuse adapter.

Since there is no cable leads to the outside, I doubt it was for the lighting system for off-roading, or show-and-be-in-awe. However, if this vehicle is ready for tow, it can be a power line feeding to an advanced brake controller, but got removed for quick sales of used parts?

Also. Could be responsible for slow battery drain?

Since the wire is not connected to anything, there's no power drain. Add a seal terminal to the wires to prevent the wire from touching something, which then causes the power to drain. Or, you can cut the line off the 12V power lead, and add a terminal to the wire to prevent it from touching any surface, and monitor for the power drain. The power drain is somewhere else, or it can be the battery itself. Aged battery will drain/discharged more quickly. But, bad wiring, exposed wire, or a different mod somewhere else that was not cut off can induce that constant slow power drain.

I make notes on all my mods, and hand over to the new owner every time I sold my vehicle.

 

[Larry Bartowski]

I believe I may have figured out this mod. Do this:

Check the fuse box on the driver side, and check blade fuse #1. What's the AMP rating on that fuse. That fuse is commonly controls the power to that 12V accessory port. OR, if it's the 12V accessory port near the 2 cup holders just behind the shifter, then that may be #21 (not sure since mine is an older model). If you have something greater than 10A, you got yourself some serious power loving device.

So, if the AMP is more than 10A, where the power line is diverted towards the head unit as well as possibly to the rear of the vehicle, your AUX power is not far from the truth. You have either an option for an kicker box like we've discussed before, or my suspicion is for something less like a LCD monitor for the head unit behind either the driver or passenger head rest. If it's a kicker/bass/new amp, there are plenty of live power feed in the rear trunk area to tap into.

But why the 3-rocker switch? Think about this for a moment. Power can be provided to the rear electronic devices when guests are there, power off if not needed, or power can be channeled to some more serious sound when you're alone, or need some ear destruction. Aside from that, if the old owner was something like me, I use that power feed for an inner cabin security system to monitor all sides of the vehicle for thefts/hit-and-run/dashcam recording fun. Power can be cut off to the center unit when not in use to prevent power drain. The second option is to turn on both the dashcam and center DVR unit. Cheapest option to mod compared to a $70 unit that allows you to automatically turn on and off after a certain amount of time. I hate pressing the power off every time I need to turn the dashcam unit off, since i have the power directly tapped into the fuse box using a tap-a-fuse adapter.

Since there is no cable leads to the outside, I doubt it was for the lighting system for off-roading, or show-and-be-in-awe. However, if this vehicle is ready for tow, it can be a power line feeding to an advanced brake controller, but got removed for quick sales of used parts?



Since the wire is not connected to anything, there's no power drain. Add a seal terminal to the wires to prevent the wire from touching something, which then causes the power to drain. Or, you can cut the line off the 12V power lead, and add a terminal to the wire to prevent it from touching any surface, and monitor for the power drain. The power drain is somewhere else, or it can be the battery itself. Aged battery will drain/discharged more quickly. But, bad wiring, exposed wire, or a different mod somewhere else that was not cut off can induce that constant slow power drain.

I make notes on all my mods, and hand over to the new owner every time I sold my vehicle.

Ha! ****. I need to buy cars from you. Everytime I buy a vehicle there's some kind of mystery thingy somewhere. I haven't removed anything just yet. I ordered a new head unit for it so I'll wait till then to poke around in the dash. I didn't even consider checking the amperage of the fuses, that's a damn good idea thank you?. I also neglected to note there was another twisted pair heading up the center console from the rear 12v along the other side. Between these things and the mounts front And rear, I'm going with cam system. Maybe recorder in the armrest? Only reason I can think of for signal wire there. I must say I had a nice experience doing the center console today along with the brake switch which took a whopping 6 minutes to do. Very well engineered and built vehicle.

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[Ionman]

Ha! ****. I need to buy cars from you. Everytime I buy a vehicle there's some kind of mystery thingy somewhere. I haven't removed anything just yet. I ordered a new head unit for it so I'll wait till then to poke around in the dash. I didn't even consider checking the amperage of the fuses, that's a damn good idea thank you?. I also neglected to note there was another twisted pair heading up the center console from the rear 12v along the other side. Between these things and the mounts front And rear, I'm going with cam system. Maybe recorder in the armrest? Only reason I can think of for signal wire there. I must say I had a nice experience doing the center console today along with the brake switch which took a whopping 6 minutes to do. Very well engineered and built vehicle.

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If there's another twisted wire going from the 12V to the head unit, it can only mean secondary power source for an expanding storage device, or a playback unit. I have an onboard 230GB SATA drive I salvaged from my old laptop to pair up with my Android Marshmallow head unit. Wife loves the idea of having all her MP3s on board for the long trips into the dataless location, and enough storage to entertain the kids for at least a full day. I'm testing out the limit of the Android OS at 2TB and 4TB for the 4 weeks long trip across the U.S., and the storage is definitely critical. If 4TB is good, I may bring my 24TB storage server. Wife's selfies, videos, and my dashcam segments are not to be lost.

 

[Larry Bartowski]

If there's another twisted wire going from the 12V to the head unit, it can only mean secondary power source for an expanding storage device, or a playback unit. I have an onboard 230GB SATA drive I salvaged from my old laptop to pair up with my Android Marshmallow head unit. Wife loves the idea of having all her MP3s on board for the long trips into the dataless location, and enough storage to entertain the kids for at least a full day. I'm testing out the limit of the Android OS at 2TB and 4TB for the 4 weeks long trip across the U.S., and the storage is definitely critical. If 4TB is good, I may bring my 24TB storage server. Wife's selfies, videos, and my dashcam segments are not to be lost.

That's a lot of capacity. Maybe go with a hdd docking station. Just take it right from one car to the other.

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[Ionman]

That's a lot of capacity. Maybe go with a hdd docking station. Just take it right from one car to the other.

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That's what I have. Dock station for both 2.5in and 3.5in, converted from SATA to USB 2.0. I also have a 2nd USB port on the head unit which I use to tab direct to 2.5in HDD without extra power requirement, since the head unit spits out 1A per USB port, while the dashcam USB port spits out 2A.