[Flash635]

2004 R5 6 speed auto.

The PRDN display has gone out and the car is driving strangely, it's jerky.
The S and gear up and down functions don't work either.

I looked on the fuse cards and can't see anything that looks like it might be it.

The ESP light is on, pushing the button changes nothing.

Anyone know what it is?

 

[hedditch]

I would be looking to do a VCDS scan. There is a good chance that it has nothing to do with the transmission, and may be it s missing a signal from a related component such as ABS, Stability Control (ESP) or similar. At least a scan will make the list smaller..

Stuart....

 

[Flash635]

I would be looking to do a VCDS scan. There is a good chance that it has nothing to do with the transmission, and may be it s missing a signal from a related component such as ABS, Stability Control (ESP) or similar. At least a scan will make the list smaller..

Stuart....

Thanks Styuart.

You don't happen to know anyone in Brisbane who charges less than $150 per code do you?

Does the transmission range selector have a fuse?

 

[Flash635]

It looks like it will probably be the range multifunction switch.
Can anyone tell me where i'ts located?

 

[noobytoogy]

Problems with the gear change can sometimes be down to the selection magnet on the underside of the sliding "blind" that surrounds the base of the gear lever falling off.

 

[Flash635]

Problems with the gear change can sometimes be down to the selection magnet on the underside of the sliding "blind" that surrounds the base of the gear lever falling off.

I've heard about that; don't all the PRDN21 lights come on when that happens?
I don't think it explains the other symptoms.

 

[Gnits]

I've heard about that; don't all the PRDN21 lights come on when that happens?

No. I mean anything might happen - but it's neither typical, not necessary with magnet problems.

I don't think it explains the other symptoms.

Jerkiness is not a typical symptom for a magnet problem. However, inability of selecting S and/or not being able to shift manually up and down are.

Also, if any of the two magnets got lose, they could cause all kinds of weird problems with gear selection and shifting. Because they could randomly move around, and because there's an electronics board right below them, which they could short circuit, or generate implausible signals on.

Anyway, as already suggested, you should do a VCDS scan first. The reason for your problems could be literally anything, and without a proper scan, all you can do is guess blindly what's causing them.

 

[Flash635]

Anyway, as already suggested, you should do a VCDS scan first. The reason for your problems could be literally anything, and without a proper scan, all you can do is guess blindly what's causing them.

$150 per scan and last time I got them to do a scan they were wrong. Besides, they're not open for at least another week so it's guessing intelligently for the the time being.

I found a thread that showed in great detail how to get into the magnets, but the pictures were gone.
I'm downloading elsawin, only 18 hours to go!
A helpful member sent me a disc with elsawin on it when I first got here but I can't get it to set up.

So far in my searches I've seen reports that neither the magnets nor the multifunction gear switch faults show up on VCDS.

 

[noobytoogy]

Time to buy your own Ross-Tech cable?

 

[Flash635]

Time to buy your own Ross-Tech cable?

Yes, I think so. Would pay for itself quickly at these prices.

Heh, I saw somebody selling cables for $2 each! Yes, $2.00AUD. Had to buy 18 of them to get it at that price.

 

[Gnits]

$150 per scan

You can buy a VCDS cable for as low as $199.

I found a thread that showed in great detail how to get into the magnets, but the pictures were gone.

It's Russian, but you'll still see how they're doing it:

The only thing is: they're not removing the console trim that goes around the selector - which makes everything a lot harder. That said, removing that is very easy, as you only have to remove two Torx screws in the box between the seats, and then can pry off the console cover gently.

I'm downloading elsawin, only 18 hours to go! A helpful member sent me a disc with elsawin on it when I first got here but I can't get it to set up.

You can download all the repair manuals fully legally for a few bucks from the official VW site: https://erwin.volkswagen.de/

 

[Flash635]

You can buy a VCDS cable for as low as $199.


It's Russian, but you'll still see how they're doing it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nvPnfnWhOOU


The only thing is: they're not removing the console trim that goes around the selector - which makes everything a lot harder. That said, removing that is very easy, as you only have to remove two Torx screws in the box between the seats, and then can pry off the console cover gently.



You can download all the repair manuals fully legally for a few bucks from the official VW site: https://erwin.volkswagen.de/

Thanks a lot for that Gnits. It's pictures that I needed.

I will be buying a cable in the new year, my credit card is flat at the moment.

 

[Flash635]

Erwin only has Audi , Seat and Skoda.

 

[Gnits]

Thanks a lot for that Gnits. It's pictures that I needed.

The repair manuals contain all the pictures you need. Not photos, but schematic drawings, like here: Removing and installing selector lever. Volkswagen Touareg (from 2003 to 2006, the year of issue)

What is Volkswagen OrgID?

You don't need that. It's for dealerships, but not a required field. Just leave it blank.

Buy the shortest access window possible, then go on and start downloading all the service manuals you can. The one you'll need will be about the "Automatic gearbox" - but just go ahead, and download all the other manuals, too. One hour should be more than enough to do that, and you can start reading/searching them later, once you have all of them, and are not constrained by the access window anymore.

Also make sure you get the build sheet ("vehicle specific information") for you car, which will contain - amongst others - all the option and color codes for your car.

 

[Gnits]

Erwin only has Audi , Seat and Skoda.

That would be weird. Look again!

I think you're referring to the links at the top of the page, but you don't have to care about those. Those are to take you to the Audi, Seat and Skoda erWin sites respectively - which you won't need, because you're on the Volkswagen site already, and want to retrieve information about/for a Volkswagen Touareg. Right?

Just register, buy the shortest flat rate access ticket, and then download all the appropriate manuals and - after entering your VIN - information sheets, as described above.

You can also download repair manuals for other car models, if you're interested.

 

[Flash635]

That would be weird. Look again!

I think you're referring to the links at the top of the page, but you don't have to care about those. Those are to take you to the Audi, Seat and Skoda erWin sites respectively - which you won't need, because you're on the Volkswagen site already, and want to retrieve information about/for a Volkswagen Touareg. Right?

Just register, buy the shortest flat rate access ticket, and then download all the appropriate manuals and - after entering your VIN - information sheets, as described above.

You can also download repair manuals for other car models, if you're interested.

Thanks, I'll try it again.

 

[Flash635]

Come to think of it the movement from D to up and down hasn't been feeling right. There's probably something stuck in there.
Likely that radio removing key I can't find.

 

[Flash635]

I've done all that was in the video, magnets were in place and there was no junk in the mechanism.
I can't see that it's done anything at all.

And I can't get the Tbar back on properly.
I can see what has to be done but it just won't pull up the white rod.

Will now search for Tbar posts.

 

[Gnits]

And I can't get the Tbar back on properly.
I can see what has to be done but it just won't pull up the white rod.

Do you have the button on the left side pulled out until it doesn't want to pop back in? If not, you won't be able to put the handle back on, and you might even break the white lever when trying.

Also, you have to put it back on so it's perpendicular on to how it is normally, with the button facing the back of the car. And then turn it 90 degrees clockwise.

When you examined the shifter/selector, did you also take off the white plastic part with the black slider in it, and checked the cover sliding mechanism thoroughly? Are you sure it can move freely and is not stuck, not only vertically, but also horizontally? (There's a smaller slider inside the big slide which should be able to move to the left and right inside it.)

Did you check the connector that goes into the bottom of the electronics panel beneath the slider mechanism?

 

[Flash635]

Do you have the button on the left side pulled out until it doesn't want to pop back in? If not, you won't be able to put the handle back on, and you might even break the white lever when trying.

The button is on the right side on my car, RHD, but yes I pulled the plug out of the opposite side like in the video and push the button out.

Also, you have to put it back on so it's perpendicular on to how it is normally, with the button facing the back of the car. And then turn it 90 degrees clockwise.

Yep, did that. I can see the helical on the white rod so I can see how it's supposed to go.
It was described in the schematic you posted as well as the video.

When you examined the shifter/selector, did you also take off the white plastic part with the black slider in it, and checked the cover sliding mechanism thoroughly? Are you sure it can move freely and is not stuck, not only vertically, but also horizontally? (There's a smaller slider inside the big slide which should be able to move to the left and right inside it.)

Yep, I checked all that and made sure there were no obstructions in any direction.
No radio keys or anything else found.

Did you check the connector that goes into the bottom of the electronics panel beneath the slider mechanism?

I tried hooking that up separately to see if there was a bad connection there. It made no difference.
What I mean is I plugged in without all the bits in the middle and made sure there was a good connection.