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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just recently had a timing belt service and the tech told me my actuator arms for my intake were broken and the top shaft was seized. Just wanted to let my treg brothers know about a product i used that made fixing this easy. Seafoam penetrating oil spray. Its the best ive ever used. It took a couple sessions of spraying and manually turning the flap. At first i couldnt move it at all so i used a ratchet extension, seated it on the ball and tapped it with a small rubber mallet and budged it a bit. Did that from opposite directions till i could make it fully travel from stop to stop. I could see the oil almost being sucked in as i had the engine running while i did this. The following day i used the car with the lever off respraying it occasionally trying to spray between the shaft and the metal flange. I kept working it back and forth and now its totally freed up! Now with both sides moving freely I ordered the delrin plastic replacements from the bay for $59.50 shipped and i should be good to go. I swear this is the best penetrating oil i've ever used. It saved me a lot of problems trying to get that shaft off the flange without breaking something. Go with the SEAFOAM.
BTW i positioned the flap while the spring was off leaving it half open and felt quite a difference in performance. Cant wait till its fixed.
 

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Good, practical post.
 

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2006 V8 Touareg AIR, nav, hid
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Heres an update with some more useful info for anyone that is having problems with this...
I installed the two new links on the manifold and found that one of the pods had no vacuum present. Seems the solenoid that opens and closes to allow for vacuum to the pod was bad. I tested this by bypassing the the solenoid and going straight to vacuum. I then checked for 12v from the plug with the ignition in the on position to verify i had power and it was good. So now i ordered a used solenoid part number 077 906 283 from ebay for $20. While im waiting for the part i left the pod connected to continuous vacuum to keep the intake rail in the position its supposed to be as it only opens at 5000 rpm.
I rarely get the car to that rpm anyway so until the part arrives the car should operate normally. Even if both links are broken you might be able to remove the springs from the rails and position them manually into their usual engine running position for better drivability but i havent tried that. This is just a stopgap procedure until parts arrive. I also found another diagnostic helper for testing the solenoid itself on youtube.

These are all details i had trouble finding here. Hope this helps someone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update: Finally! I changed out the bad solenoid and all is good.
I sourced one on ebay for $20 and put it in this morning. I had to change a couple vacuum hoses doe to rot and now its perfect. What a beast this car is.
I have to adapt my foot to the power now. Hope I filled in some gaps of info on this very common problem.
 

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Update: Finally! I changed out the bad solenoid and all is good.
I sourced one on ebay for $20 and put it in this morning. I had to change a couple vacuum hoses doe to rot and now its perfect. What a beast this car is.
I have to adapt my foot to the power now. Hope I filled in some gaps of info on this very common problem.
Great write up, I may try this method instead of the full removal of the arms connected to the flapper rods. How long did it take you to get the arms to start moving?
 

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the second one. Before you buy it, I would disconnect the arm from the ball and put a vacuum on the actuator to verify that the actuator is the problem. Check that the arms/shafts move freely. Could be the root of the problem even if the actuator is shot. You can hone the bushing to free up the arms. Easy diy. search the forum for how to.
 

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Glad to hear that your flaps are now working and that the Seafoam penetrating oil spray worked well for you. I checked mine about 6 months ago. They were still moving, but I did not like the "sticky" feeling I was getting. Oh drat! This is how it starts.

I thought about penetrating oil and / or about WD-40. It then occurred to me that the key lock lube that I used was basically a penetrating oil/WD-40 carrier with some powdered graphite lube mixed in. The oil will evaporate pretty quickly, leaving the graphite behind.

I tried it as an experiment. So far, 6 months have passed, the seals seem to have suffered no ill effects, and the arms are still moving smooth.
 
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