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Discussion Starter #1
Last weekend I replaced the valve body in my 2005 T1 with 111,000 miles. I followed some very good DIY instructions found in this forum, and added some of my own thoughts after the fact.

The day I did the replacement, I dropped the car and went for a drive. Everything was great. However, on the second trip, the transmission indicator on the MFI went all orange (all gears selected), and I lost the indication of the current gear I'm in. So my question is, is that just a weird coincidence, that this happens immediately after a valve body change? Or is it possible that I need to program the new valve body, or reset something somewhere to bring it back? My other fear is that maybe it has something to do with fluid levels. When I refilled the transmission, I ran it to the 30 degree C level and filled and filled. I ended up using 9 quarts of ATF, but it never really ran out of the fill hole. Is it even possible to overfill the transmission, given that you fill from the bottom? Or is it possible that 9 quarts was not enough to fill it?

To answer the first question, no, I do not have VagCom so I don't know if there are any errors thrown. I'd like to get it, but I just spent a ton of money on timing belt and valve body, so for now I'm just looking for some insider insight into my symptoms.

Thanks
 

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You need to get a vag com and see what the transmission computer is upset about.

-J
 

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X2. Sorry, but you'll either spend $300+ at the shop having them sort it out or spend $350-$400 (wifi is nice!) and now you have a new (and very useful) tool for future use.
 

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As above - you need a VCDS read out.
 

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With 9 quarts you should be very close to 100% filled up but with the method followed by most here it should overflow at the fill hole. A few here have reported running into problems because the filter was not seated properly. Did you remove the old o ring? If you fitted a new o ring without removing the old or seat the filter incorrectly the system will suck air instead of ATF.
 

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Has anyone tried to replace only the solenoid valves with new ones? Rostra sells a kit of six valves and was thinking that might be enough to fix the valvebody.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
voortreger, I did replace the filter and O-ring. I suspect its sucking oil OK based on the filling procedure. I initial filled the belly pan until it overflowed. Then ran the car at idle to temperature and was able to put an additional 4 quarts in there. So I assume it's sucking the oil out of the pan correctly.

As to the replacement of solenoid valves only, I considered doing just the solenoid replacement. But after looking at what all was involved with replacing them, and all the opportunities for me to make mistakes, I opted for a complete valve body.
 

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I'll need to find more info about the solenoid change. If that kit is just plug and play like it sounds, then i just soak the rest of the valvebody in diesel to clean it and then just install the solenoids. Hope that there is no need to open the valve body.

Oh and just to make clear i was going to use whole new solenoids, not going to fix the old ones.

As for the transmission fault you have, it might just be loose connection in wiring or bad output speed sensor.
 

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Has anyone tried to replace only the solenoid valves with new ones? Rostra sells a kit of six valves and was thinking that might be enough to fix the valvebody.
The bores wear and will need reaming and this is not a DIY unless you are skilled.

I strongly recommend you do the job properly and buy a new or remanufactured valve chest.
 
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