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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys

I have a MY13 V6TDI that has 165K on the dial. It's been a fantastic journey so far (apart from a seat issue just after we acquired it). My problem this time is what appears to be a flat spot on take off, just after the Start-Stop kicks in. The scenario:

Cold morning (-2 here today), I'm driving my wife to work...no problem. Returning to the office I am sitting at a traffic light, the Start Stop operates. I release the foot brake to kick it in again ready to leave. Light turns green, I apply foot to accelerator. Vehicle almost dies due to this flat spot...I have to release accelerator and re-apply to get movement. Timeline...seconds. But it is potentially enough for someone to rear end me.

I have just had it serviced for it 165K, and advised the provider of the issue. He gave me a story that they had cleaned the MAF (mass airflow sensor) and intake. They added diesel engine intake de-carb. This is supposed to have fixed it...but the same thing has just happened, less than 48 hours after. The question is, has anyone else had this problem? How is it rectified?

Thanks in advance for any feedback. Cheers
 

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Sounds like you're on the other side of the pond based on the system.....
With that sort of klicks on the clock, I would jump to the conclusion that you potentially have some serious intake carbon buildup.... this may be effecting your butterflies and even your turbo VNT operation, etc. I would scan it for codes after you experience this "flat spot" to see if anything registered. I would also suggesting beating on it every once in a while to help keep things loose..... if you always drive in granny mode, you have a good chance of things getting seized\stuck, and then when you finally demand full power, you have hickups.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Sounds like you're on the other side of the pond based on the system.....
With that sort of klicks on the clock, I would jump to the conclusion that you potentially have some serious intake carbon buildup.... this may be effecting your butterflies and even your turbo VNT operation, etc. I would scan it for codes after you experience this "flat spot" to see if anything registered. I would also suggesting beating on it every once in a while to help keep things loose..... if you always drive in granny mode, you have a good chance of things getting seized\stuck, and then when you finally demand full power, you have hickups.
Hi TurboABA,

Thanks for your comment. The question though is, is this removable by use of a fuel or oil additive, or is it a major service item which should be done? When you say scan for codes...what does that mean? My Treg doesn't seem to have anything like this, in that, when I check the service page on the dash, it tells me essentially nothing. Is it in the MFD then? You've guessed that I'm not overly technical with diesels by now, right :) ... BTW, I don't generally drive in "granny" mode. I tend to hit the pedal reasonably har on take off, and generally try to use Cruise around town. (Canberra is pretty good for that), but on the highway I tend to stick to 120 and only really squirt it when I'm alone and on a straight strip.
 

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I had a boost problem with my R5, it was the charge pipe coming loose, so I fixed that but still had the problem intermittently (!?).
I think the EGR flapper thing was getting stuck and blocking the intake so I cleaned that up and no more problems.

Does your car have hill start assist?
Mine stays on longer than I think it should but it's not really a problem, I don't have start stop.

Mr Muscle works great as a decarboniser.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had a boost problem with my R5, it was the charge pipe coming loose, so I fixed that but still had the problem intermittently (!?).
I think the EGR flapper thing was getting stuck and blocking the intake so I cleaned that up and no more problems.

Does your car have hill start assist?
Mine stays on longer than I think it should but it's not really a problem, I don't have start stop.

Mr Muscle works great as a decarboniser.
Hi Flash365,
Yes, we have an autohold/HSA on the Treg, But it is rarely used since I find that the vehicle works fine in most sites/situations, and a little roll doesn't concern me. MMM not certain about the EGR, Obviously it's under the cover, which I am still to work out how to remove :(

I'll keep trying this weekend thanks for passing that on. BTW, Mr Muscle???
 

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Hi Flash365,
Yes, we have an autohold/HSA on the Treg, But it is rarely used since I find that the vehicle works fine in most sites/situations, and a little roll doesn't concern me. MMM not certain about the EGR, Obviously it's under the cover, which I am still to work out how to remove :(

I'll keep trying this weekend thanks for passing that on. BTW, Mr Muscle???
Mr Muscle = oven cleaner. You're Australian aren't you? How would you not know Mr Muscle?
It's the same stuff as Wurth carbon cleaner but cheaper, easier to get (Woolies) and it foams up so it sticks on better.
I clean my VNT with it too.

Can you turn your HSA off? I don't think I can, or at least I don't know how.

My EGR is blanked off. One of the things I did when I was trying to track down my water loss was to disconnect the water cooling for the EGR.
I didn't think it would be a good idea to pipe in uncooled exhaust so I blanked it off.
 

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Hi TurboABA,

Thanks for your comment. The question though is, is this removable by use of a fuel or oil additive, or is it a major service item which should be done? When you say scan for codes...what does that mean? My Treg doesn't seem to have anything like this, in that, when I check the service page on the dash, it tells me essentially nothing. Is it in the MFD then? You've guessed that I'm not overly technical with diesels by now, right :) ... BTW, I don't generally drive in "granny" mode. I tend to hit the pedal reasonably har on take off, and generally try to use Cruise around town. (Canberra is pretty good for that), but on the highway I tend to stick to 120 and only really squirt it when I'm alone and on a straight strip.
There is no additive that will clean bad carbon buildup.
When I say scan, I mean use a specific tool (called VCDS) to get very detailed information about what's happening with your vehicle. Check it out.
 

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It is no big deal; I had a 2007 F-350 Powerstroke that acted the exact same way (as my 2012 TDI does). When things are warming up from cold, different systems warm up faster than others creating less that smooth, full power operation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It is no big deal; I had a 2007 F-350 Powerstroke that acted the exact same way (as my 2012 TDI does). When things are warming up from cold, different systems warm up faster than others creating less that smooth, full power operation.
MMM, I hear what you're saying, but this happens (though infrequently) and it doesn't matter if the engine is warm (as in after I've driven 12K to get my wife to work) or just taking off in the morning first thing...I have to admit that it is concerning to me...and particularly when it occurs in heavy traffic. :(
 

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MMM, I hear what you're saying, but this happens (though infrequently) and it doesn't matter if the engine is warm (as in after I've driven 12K to get my wife to work) or just taking off in the morning first thing...I have to admit that it is concerning to me...and particularly when it occurs in heavy traffic. :(
Your issue may be different than mine. You might have a dirty throttle position sensor. With the engine off, try mashing the accelerator pedal to the floor 15-20 fully and rapidly to try to "clean" it. I've had this help on more than one vehicle.
 

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Stop with that nonsense.... these are DBW... not some carburator POS tractor that you've owned in the past.
 

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Stop with that nonsense.... these are DBW... not some carburator POS tractor that you've owned in the past.
LOL. So you somehow think there is NO throttle position sensor??? FYI: With old, carbureted engines, that was NO TPS, just a mechanical cable to carburetor butterfly valve. With the introduction of fuel injected engines, "fly by wire" was introduced, so some means of determining your desired throttle position was necessary, which amounts to a spring loaded potentiometer connected by cable to floor pedal (unless directly connected).


Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Throttle Position Sensor
  • Car won't accelerate, lacks power when accelerating, or accelerates itself. ...
  • Engine won't idle smoothly, idles too slowly, or stalls. ...
  • Car accelerates, but won't exceed a relatively low speed, or shift up. ...
  • Check Engine Light comes on, accompanied by any of the above behavior

 

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Thank you for including a selfie. In the future, if I see you around, I will be able to approach you, shake your hand and hopefully get an opportunity to absorb some more of your incredibly abundant knowledge on these TDIs since so very few of us barely know anything about them.

I've had this help on more than one vehicle.
OP, according to our resident expert above, and following the same logic, make sure you replace your spark plugs too. This has helped me on many of my previous vehicles.
 

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Thank you for including a selfie. In the future, if I see you around, I will be able to approach you, shake your hand and hopefully get an opportunity to absorb some more of your incredibly abundant knowledge on these TDIs since so very few of us barely know anything about them.



OP, according to our resident expert above, and following the same logic, make sure you replace your spark plugs too. This has helped me on many of my previous vehicles.
It was to represent your Neanderthalic misconceptions. :D:D:D
 
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