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I myself would have deleted the control valve and gone with a billet replacement. You'll want to replace the plastic coolant flange and gaskets that go from head to EGR cooler, they crack very easily. Intake gaskets (rectangles and circles) should be done as well.
 
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Cascade German has a comprehensive kit of everything you'll need for most of them. Beware. Also the flange on the back of the front cover can fail and leak, that requires a whole lot more to be replaced as well. If that is the case I have the parts list of what you need for that as well. I do a whole bunch of these in my shop.
 
Darkside has great parts closer to home.

Not sure why that makes much of a difference, the shipping time won't be vastly different.
 
Also, it doesn't make a ton of sense to replace the oil cooler (#8 in exploded parts diagram above), as they rarely fail (from the reading I've done).

You'd be better off replacing the gasket beneath the sandwich plate the oil cooler is attached to instead, unless you notice it's compromised when you pull it off.
 
I replaced my water pump as it was leaking and looked similar to your scenario... until I found out the valley was also leaking... (haven't fixed it btw)
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
I replaced my water pump as it was leaking and looked similar to your scenario... until I found out the valley was also leaking... (haven't fixed it btw)
Its probably both 😅 but as of now the car loses 1 litre of coolant in 15 min driving. Coolant everywhere & smoking, the belt throws coolant everywhere 😁
So now im waiting for a belt and a waterpump...
 
Discussion starter · #18 · (Edited)
Update again: Its the plate holding the water pump that is leaking i think? Never heard of this but looks like it is.
Also found the oil filter housing seal leaking between coolant / oil making it contaminated.
Ive never seen so much carbon build up in a intake plenum before, holy ****.
I love vag
 
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