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Discussion Starter #1
Alarm is going off randomly.
I see this in the vcds scan:

01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent

After some online reading I think the alarm battery is dying.
Before removing mine I ordered a used alarm from ebay to see what I will be dealing with.
Alarm was less than 20$ including shipping. Alarm came off a skoda oktavia, same part number.
After opening it I found out the battery is also dead :)
So I'm planning to hack it and add an external battery.
This alarm uses a 2x3.6v battery is series => 7.2v.
This guy shows the whole process:
https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/audi-a4-b6-alarm-siren-replace-nimh-batteries.90361/

I will be updating this thread with my findings.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
By the way the only way to open the alarm is by using a dremel or a cutter and going around the whole thing.


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Discussion Starter #4
Battery removed:




Waiting for the the 4xaaa box and a bigger box.
I plan to put both the alarm board and the 4xaaa battery box in the same box and keep the speaker in its original box after sealing the conector. So if i need to replace the batteries later or replace the alarm board all I need is open the box and replace parts.


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You can probably hack in a 9v nimh battery. They don't really run at 9 volts, but less in the real world. The real voltage is 7.2 or 8.4 depending on the number of cells internally.

Look at this one. amazon.com/7-2V-150MAH-NIMH-9-VOLT/dp/B000E8973Y

I would feel comfortable with anything from 150 to 300 mah capacity. 150 to 225 would be ideal.

Get a 9v battery connector with wires and hack that thing back together.

(PS: respect your hack. Just throwing out other possibilities.) :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for info Nickyt. The 9v option is a good one too. I planned to go 4x1.2v rechargeable nimh which will give plenty of amp hours depending on the capacity I choose. You can get more capacity with the 1.2v cells. But capacity is not really a concern. My idea is to make this controllable as it is driving the treg crazy going off randomly. I have a bad door module which I'm also replacing but I wanted to open up this thing and relocate the board and battery in a dedicated box. I will have enough space in the box for the battery and the board.
Now I might have a different design in the treg than the one I bought as etka is showing a different picture. The other design uses one 3.6 battery. I also ordered a 3xaaa holder just in case.
I'm also running a switch to disable the horn if something goes wrong and the treg starts screamimg in the middle of the night.


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Discussion Starter #7
For future readers:
Taken from here (Phaeton forum. Phaeton shares a lot of components with the Touareg. )

About your alarm difficulties - the first step in the process is to find out what sensor on the car is triggering the alarm. This is easy to determine - take the car to a VW dealer (ANY VW dealer, it doesn't have to be a Phaeton dealer), and ask them to poll controller 46, the Central Comfort Controller, to see what has been causing the alarm to activate.
Measured Value Block 18 of Controller 46 will record the cause of the last 4 alarm activations in MVBs 1 through 4, with MVB 1 being the most recent activation. Here is a list of the possible sources:
1 = Driver door
2 = Pax door
3 = Left rear door
4 = Right rear door
5 = Trunk lid
6 = Hood open
7 = Terminal 15
8 = Interior protection
9 = Tire puncture (slashed tire) or attempted wheel theft - Left Front tire.
10 = ditto, RF tire
11 = ditto, LR tire
12 = ditto, RR tire
13 = ditto, spare tire
14 = Inclination sensor
15 = Attempt to interfere with Alarm Siren.
16 = Immobilizer
17 = Attempt to disconnect Trailer from vehicle
255 = No alarm triggering event recorded
So, if you see the number "5" recorded as the cause of your last 4 alarm triggers, something is wrong with the switch that determines that the trunk is closed - so, you do the troubleshooting there. It's generally quite easy to find the problem once you have been directed to the source of the problem by the 'flight data recorder', so to speak.


I checked mine with VCDS. I found code 15: Attempt to interfere with Alarm Siren. I think the siren battery is dying and losing communication with the comfort module.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks. Here is another good one :)
You can disable the alarm horn by removing fuse mumber 21 on the passenger side fuse panel (LHD) ! How about that?
Before I open things up I'm doing this to stop the alram from bugging the neighborhood. You can even remove turn signal fuses on both fuse panels to spare some battery juice. Mirror led lights will still blink as they are managed through the door modules.




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