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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Started removing bad driveshaft, have rebuilt one in box from CO Driveshaft.

I have read that easiest way to break it free is to undo the splined bolts in rear and then start vehicle and out her in gear.

I currently have all 4 wheels off the ground. Will this work or does vehicle actually have to move? Likewise, brake / parking brake on or off?

Thanks for guidance. Like so many of my projects, I'm stuck halfway.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hi all. Got it to pop. Wheels up, e-brake on.

Just removed bolts from rubber donut up front. Now I can't seem to seperate shaft from that end. Argh!
 

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That was a pain in the @$$ when I did it. I had luck rubber hammering the rear side out first. The CV will give a little bit so a small prybar or a big screwdriver will help convince it to flop out. You've seen how heavy that shaft is from the replacement, it's easy to find yourself underneath it so be safe and stand clear! I put a small ratchet strap around there to minimize risk.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, shaft is out. Pry par did it. Hooray.

Of course, it is fighting me at every step. Are you supposed to be able to reuse the rubber donut? The metal sleeves do not want to let go of the old drive shaft. Is there a trick to removal or is mine just toast?
IMG_20200915_182836.jpg
 

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The isolator is reusable and in my case, I replaced it with a used one in better shape than mine from CO Driveshaft for some small amount of money. Yours looks decent. I'd replace if you see small cracks in the rubber or if the collars are loose.
 

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The bolts you took out of the shaft and isolator are single use(iirc) and I replaced mine. I got quoted for an order from my local VW dealer for $75 plus 10 days to arrive. Called my local Porsche dealer, $31 and "I'll have them on the counter waiting for you."
 

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Discussion Starter #7
New one is in. Hammer and some silicone got the isolator free. Install of new shaft went smoothly. The original exhaust clamps were not salvageable and I needed to cut them off. Pick up new clamps in the AM and can then go for a test drive.

My original drive shaft went 16 years and over 100k miles so I really can't complain. The rubber around bearing was actually OK but the bearing itself sounds very gritty.

Treg has held up pretty well after all this time, especially since she has sat outside for many years now. Doing most of my own work has saved me a fortune. Here she is polished and shined this weekend.
IMG_20200909_124659.jpg
 

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Well, I can say from experience that if you hear a little bit of rhythmic groan, the bearing just needs alignment. I tried a few times and never got it just right but close. Actually just sold it last night. Already miss it.

Is that the forest green paint? I had looked for that when I got my T1 but ended up with the phenomenal Colorado Red. That car looks fantastic! Which package came with the chromed grill and roof rack?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It is anthracite grey. The roof racks are original. I replaced original grill with the chrome one from TDI.

I've been in denial and addressing everything else but, having just found some videos, pretty sure the noise is front differential.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The sealer after polish reflects like crazy. Probably reflection from the grass.

I think the time has come to say goodbye to Treg. Don't want to deal with the front diff.

Looks like I can get $1850 from one of those dealers that buys cars. If anyone interested, let me know.

Obviously, just replaced driveshaft. New brembo pads and rotors in last 6 months. Nearly new Nokian Wars, all front suspension parts (excluding air shocks) about a year ago. OthBother

Body looks great, interior excellent except for typical peeling buttons. Both headlight assemblies replaced with new due to clouding, one just last week, other 6 months ago.

V8, anthracite grey with charcoal interior. 119k miles. Near King of Prussia, PA.
 
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