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Sometimes after driving, two of my doors sometimes won't unlock properly when I take the key out of the ignition. Neither the inside handle nor the outside handle will open them. However, if I thump the door above the outside handle, the doors will open as normal.

Any suggestions on how to fix this problem (other than keep hitting the door)?
 

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I had a similar problem, the door would appear locked and the handle, both inside and out wouldn't engage, a slight bump / inward force on the external handle and I could hear a small click somewhere in the mechanism and then both door handles worked as expected. When the door remained unlocked the problem was no longer presenting, as soon as the door re locked , the handles became non functional.
As it turns out, after I took the interior trim apart unnecessarily, there is a small screw adjustment screw on the door, located under the "double" plastic blanking plate which I " tinkered" with and now the door opens as expected, It only took a quarter turn to get it realigned, it seems to position the fake barrel in the lock mechanism .

The shot below shows the plastic cover pulled out and rotated 45deg cc. On your door this plug will be vertical, it's the top screw you are after.
 

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Sydney, Hey there just read your last post. How does that door latch screw adjust ? I'm experiencing the same issue with all my doors and just fear If I adjust the wrong way that I wont be able to open my door....or can that even happen?

Thanks in advance
 

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Hi, I have a similar problem with my Touareg. How do you tinker with that screw exactly, I mean how do you know when it is aligned? Thanks.
 

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TRespect, thanks for the link. It seems like the problem is with mechanical part of the door latch. When I disarm the car I can hear the click but both inside and outside handles do not open the door. Any suggestions how I can open the door without cutting it with grinder?
 

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TRespect, thanks for the link. It seems like the problem is with mechanical part of the door latch. When I disarm the car I can hear the click but both inside and outside handles do not open the door. Any suggestions how I can open the door without cutting it with grinder?
If it won’t open then apply a slight pressure inward while outside using the handle, Or alternatively from the inside of the cabin try and pull the door further closed and then try to unlatch.

I would try and adjust the screw indicated above before I strip the door and tear down the mech.
 

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Respect, let me know if you plan to upload above-mentioned procedure this week. I would really appreciate it but it is fine if you don't have time for that now. I'll look for other hopefully non-invasive ways.
 

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You will need a drill to remove the rivets. And you better get a nutsert tool to replace the rivets with nutserts to make it easier to work on the doors later on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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You will need new trim clips as you will break almost all of them when you pull at the door cards.
Clip part number 7L6868243. I think you will need 5 or 6 per door. 0.70€ a piece.

So go through the pdf files, get the tools and let me know if you need any more info.
If you go with pop rivets you will need to get some before opening the door. When I tore down my friends Treg door we changed to nuserts. 6mm I think.
 

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Oh I thought that was intermitent. I mixed up threads then. When it happened to my rear left door i fiddled with the child lock button then the door unlocked. You might try that and disconnecting the battery for a while. If you get it open then you can use the instructions to repair the lock.


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I had a similar problem, the door would appear locked and the handle, both inside and out wouldn't engage, a slight bump / inward force on the external handle and I could hear a small click somewhere in the mechanism and then both door handles worked as expected. When the door remained unlocked the problem was no longer presenting, as soon as the door re locked , the handles became non functional.
As it turns out, after I took the interior trim apart unnecessarily, there is a small screw adjustment screw on the door, located under the "double" plastic blanking plate which I " tinkered" with and now the door opens as expected, It only took a quarter turn to get it realigned, it seems to position the fake barrel in the lock mechanism .

The shot below shows the plastic cover pulled out and rotated 45deg cc. On your door this plug will be vertical, it's the top screw you are after.
Thanks for this. All 4 of my doors are exactly the same; only after being locked and unlocked they take 5-10 pulls to open then they are normal, until locked again. The rear doors appear to be a Torx T20 which don't help one way and the other I've tightened as much as I dare and which seems to have helped. I can't make out what the adjuster ''socket'' on the drivers doors is at all it's absolutely tiny. I think the pax door adjuster might be missing completely?! Presumably there should be something in that thread?

20201120_172109.jpg
 
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