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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was a piece of cake... first try took me 40 minutes, will take 25-30 next time. I did use Rhino Ramps which gave me a ton of room to work.

Tools needed:
Rhino Ramps (optional I guess)
10 mm socket (belly pan screws)
19 MM socket (oil drain plug)
6 mm allen wrench (oil filter drain)
36mm socket or "American" oil filter wrench (oil filter cap)
6.8 quarts of your favorite synthetic oil (5w-30 Mobil1 was my choice)
Oil filter: http://vw-parts.drivewire.com/buy-vw/touareg/oil-filter.html
(I went with the Hengst, but they offer the OEM there as well.)

1: Remove rear belly pan by removing 4 10mm bolts in the front, 2 10mm bolts about halfway back. After bolts are removed, slide the belly pan out of it's rear sping hinge.

2: Find the drain plug and remove using 19mm socket. It is located just above the front of where the rear belly pan was. The head is facing the rear of the vehicle, screwed into the silver pan. Oil comes aboslutely flying out. Plan for this by moving your catch pan back at least 8-10 inches from the drain. As it drains, slide the pan towards the front of the vehicle, keeping the flow in the middle of the pan.

3: Reinstall plug

4: Oil Filter... Drivers side of the engine, directly above the front of the belly pan. Large plastic circle with a 36mm Hex below it. Inside the hex is the silver oil filter drain plug. Move the catch pan directly below the filter drain and remove with a 6mm allen wrench. After the filter is drained, reinstall the plug and remove the filter cap using a 36mm socket or a filter wrench. you'll need a long extension as it's not possible to get leverage otherwise. Once remove, drain remaining oil and pull upwards on old filter. It will snap out of the cap. Install new fliter by pushing down on it until it snaps into place. Reinstall filter cap using 36mm socket or filter wrench.

6: Fill oil. I ended up using 6.75 quarts of Mobil1 5w-30 synthetic.

7: Idle engine briefly, check for leaks... if none, then reinstall belly pan.

That's it. I'm thrilled I can do this myself as the $109 at the dealer is highway robbery.

Let me know if you have any questions.
 

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I've heard of dealers charging much more that $109. If your dealer charges $109 to change the oil, I don't think that is really highway robbery if he is giving you synthetic oil.

Your oil change costs about $60 in parts and materials ($25 filter and $35 oil). You have to drive out to get the oil and have the filter delivered via UPS. You have to dispose of the old oil (another trip somewhere).
 

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On my recent 20,000 mile service I payed:

Filter $15.00
Washer $1.20
Motor Oil $54.00
= $70.20

Labor was $68.00/hr for 2 hours. I didnt mind the cost after the service they gave me. Maybe Ill try the DIY method next time just to try it out. Thanks for the instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
spockcat said:
I've heard of dealers charging much more that $109. If your dealer charges $109 to change the oil, I don't think that is really highway robbery if he is giving you synthetic oil.

Your oil change costs about $60 in parts and materials ($25 filter and $35 oil). You have to drive out to get the oil and have the filter delivered via UPS. You have to dispose of the old oil (another trip somewhere).
More than $109? Wow. Filter was $11 online, bought 5 for free shipping. I buy the synthetic mobil 1 for about $28 for 7 quarts (5 quart jug and 2 quarts) from a guy I've been doing business with for years. $39 total. I also enjoyed doing it, and will continue to. Even if it were a break even proposition between DIY and the dealer... I think I'd still do it. I'm wierd like that... You're right about disposing the oil... its a PITA, but I usually just save up 6 or so gallons and bring them all at once. In my opinion the v6 oil change is just like any other vehicle. Sounds like the v8 and the v10 are different animals.
 

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Torque Setting

Anyone know the actual ft/lbs or newtons for the drain plug? I know that I could just wing it, but I do have the proper tools and would like to do it correctly.

Also, does anyone know if VW wants the crush ring replaced or the whole drain plug? The last time I did the Passat they recommended the drain plug be replaced with each oil change. I thought that was a little excessive.

Thanks,
 

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vitaminB5 said:
[You're right about disposing the oil... its a PITA, but I usually just save up 6 or so gallons and bring them all at once. In my opinion the v6 oil change is just like any other vehicle. Sounds like the v8 and the v10 are different animals.
All Autozone locations are required to have a large tote (250 Gallon or so) for customer disposal. Just walk in with your oil and dump it. (Since Autozones are located EVERYWHERE, this should be convienent for most of the population.)

What are the additional requirements for a V8?

Great post, BTW.
 

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V6 OIL Change was Easy

Thanks for all the info. The V6 oil change was no harder than any other oil change done in the past. Pretty similar to other VWs. One suggestion I would add is to use a ½’’ drive socket wrench for the 36mm filter cap nut. Also I would recommend that a 19mm wrench be used rather than a socket for the drain plug. Lastly I found the T30 Torx wrench to work better than the 10mm socket for the belly pan removal.

All in all it took me 15 minutes and I would highly recommend any handy person who owns a V6 to do it themselves. Saves money and you know it’s done right. Save those receipts for warranty purposes.


-Leeds
 
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