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Discussion Starter #21
just got mine out the only hard part is getting the allen bolts broken loose from the back of the alt.
What was the issue with your alternator? Bad bearings or incorrect output?
 

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What was the issue with your alternator? Bad bearings or incorrect output?
Bad rotor! just got off the phone with the guy that was going to rebuild it and he said he cant get the parts for it. also called Kaza to see if he knew where to find the parts! also no luck. its weird that delco sells a reman alt but still you cant get parts it. this is a Monopoly if you ask me!!!!!:censored:
 

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So found something out that is quite interesting. Guy that tried to rebuild my alt told me that the only way the rotor could fail is from the manufacture. I guess they can wind the wiring around the rotor to tight and over time vibration and heat will brake the connection. so Delphi is the blame.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
this is a Monopoly if you ask me!!!!!
Sure is, what is the reman alt going for?
 

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Sure is, what is the reman alt going for?
Reman from O'Reilly's is 390.00. but i went a different route, found a used alt in topeka KS for 125.00 having mike from Freds Auto Electric replace bearings and brushes hope this will be the end of it for a while. although im kinda glad my alt did go out on me. cause i finally found what has been draining my battery for the past year! Two birds one stone!!!:p
 

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Does anyone know the torque spec for the bolts holding the alternator to the engine? I took them off when removing the timing belt and am going to put everything back together today or tomorrow.
 

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Reman from O'Reilly's is 390.00. but i went a different route, found a used alt in topeka KS for 125.00 having mike from Freds Auto Electric replace bearings and brushes hope this will be the end of it for a while. although im kinda glad my alt did go out on me. cause i finally found what has been draining my battery for the past year! Two birds one stone!!!:p
What was draining your battery? Alternator?
 

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Thanks for the DIY this might come handy. I'm currently in the process of doing my Timing Belt and stopped on my tracks due to this "8 MM Allen." I have unscrewed the 2 6mm allen holding the alternator. Are there any other hidden screws I have to remove to be able to wiggle the Alternator so I can gain full access to this 8mm Allen. Your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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If I was home and had the time I might have tackled this after my mechanic told me "VW says you have to pull the engine!" He initially wasn't going to do it but after he called the dealer to get a quote from them he decided he could do it as paying $3k to swap an alternator is absurd. Seems to be an "F You VW" on his part. Just talked to him and he's got the old one out in about 6 hours and hoping to get the new one in and wrapped up in another 4 or so. He is using this method as he thinks pulling the engine is stupid and he said he's honestly not equipped to do that. The alt itself is $660! Per VWoA there were 2!... just 2 in all of North America...WTF? Anyhow it's going to be in the $1500 ballpark...which is still absurd. Funny thing is he and I called the same dealer - they told him $3k...they told me $2400....?
 

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I am fairly certain that it is an Alternator and not a Generator. The alternator does however need brushes because the field coil sit inside rotor ( exactly as the magnets sit around the rotor of a small dc motor, but an alternator does not have permanent magnets.) The output from the alternator is a 3 phase AC signal that is then rectified by a 3 phase rectifier. (I will try to get some diagrams about this) in order for the alternator to produce any voltage and current, the field coil must be powered. The voltage regulator actually regulates the current to the field coil.

if the alternator output voltage is too high the regulator reduces the current going into the field coil (through the brushes) this is only about 1 - 2 amps I think,thereby reducing the magnetic field in the field coil(rotor) with a weaker field , less voltage and current is induced into the stator coils and therefore less voltage is produced to be rectified.

so in short, if the brushes fail,there is no field current ( magnetic field) so the alternator cannot produce any output.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Is it doable to replace the brushes on Touareg's alternator?
I asked about that when I had mine rebuilt. They are removable, in fact the tech who rebuilt it needed to remove them in order to replace the bearing. It should only be a matter of sourcing the part. I asked him about replacing the ones in mine and he said they looked fine at 65,000 miles.
 

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jmansfield04 said:
I asked about that when I had mine rebuilt. They are removable, in fact the tech who rebuilt it needed to remove them in order to replace the bearing. It should only be a matter of sourcing the part. I asked him about replacing the ones in mine and he said they looked fine at 65,000 miles.
Ok thank you for that!

Now as soon as I find time, I will go source the brushes and part #. My gut feeling tells me that at 160000-200000km, it would be wise to replace them. Very cheap insurance.



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Wanted to bump this thread because I just used it to install my 04 TReg alternator and saved $2K in labor. Thank you for the write up! It does work, but some added details:
A. You will need to get replacement seals for the hoses, as they deteriorate after 10 years. I found out the hard way (leaks everywhere).
B. You will likely have to take the pulley off the front of your old alternator, but local auto stores can likely do it for you.
C. Pull a hose off the bottom of the alternator or elsewhere, because when you remove the j-hose the radiator fluid (the pink stuff) will splash everywhere and not fall easily into the tray you have below.
D. Have both a long and short set of Allen wrenches/ Hex wrenches. The short set works best on the hoses, and the long works well on the bolts.
E. Now would be a good time to get a set of new bolts for the under guard, as I seem to lose a bolt every time I take it to get an oil change.
F. Get the best latex gloves/ thick ones as they paid off the amount of times I was saved from scratches and stains.
 

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Just went through repairing my alternator bearings due to the noise and wanted to supply what I found, when the shop was overhauling as they had problems locating one of the bearings. The NSK B17-99DG88 England. This bearing is not listed on the NSK sight and from what I was told, was that the bearing was a VW design and was priority. We finally crossed referenced using the dimensions, 17 x 52 x 17mm. to B17-99D-2RS AB (Alternator Bearing) If you’re working with a small shop it may save everybody time by ordering and suppling this bearing with alternator, when you drop it off.
 

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Was this the V8 BAR engine or the AXQ? I'm trying to identify if the alternators are the same and the procedures for both variants. And help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Wish i could see the pictures, seems to happen a lot on here for some reason, currently trying to remove mine now to fit a new starter but cant remove the alternator :-(
 

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Which pictures?

If they were hosted by photf*ckitup you're stuffed now unless the original poster cones back to sort it out which I suspect will be rare, and especially so for the older photos where the poster has probably moved on.
 
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