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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all....I have just finished building a spare wheel carrier so I can carry a full size spare for off road use. It has turned out very well and I am stoked with the look and function of it.
It has however caused me one big headache. Obviously as it covers the rear number plate I had to reposition the plate and this involved mounting a new plate light.
My first thought to power the light was to tap into the tow connector but this didn't work, I'm told it would need the trailer attached for this to work so I decided to run a wire directly to the taillight and tap in there.
The end result is that the new plate light works but for some reason my indicators on that side don't. Unfortunately disconnecting the plate light didn't change this, one puzzling thing is that the indicator in the mirror still works but neither the front or rear indicators do.
Not really being very knowledgeable with electrics I gave up before doing any further damage and took it to our local auto electrician. He spent almost 4 hrs on it yesterday and he has also thrown in the towel and cant fix it. He suggests I might have caused a problem with the BCM.
Is there anyone here who could throw some light on this for me, I hate the idea of taking it to VW and have no great faith that they would be any the wiser anyway.
Thanks for any assistance you can give.
I have included a few photos of the car, I think it looks great with the off road tyres and wheel carrier, if I could just get the indicators working I'd be a happy man.
Tyres are Kenda Klever R/T 265/65/17 fantastic tyres so far, a good middway between all terrain and mud tyres.
 

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when i had my custom hitch mounted carrier the auto sparky did exactly what you are trying to do. He jumped in on the lights. I wonder though as i write and i cant recall but is there a parker light wire ? Sorry cant remember. He did know what he was doing and was all done in around 30mins.

I guess it comes down maybe to know VAG or modern Euro vehicles ... No ??
 

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Yeah, it would seem I've shorted something while I was poking around. It would just be nice to know where to look and how to know what exactly I've done.
 

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Sorry i couldnt help more im not a sparky and i called dibs on Dumb A$$ of the day on this thread

 

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I had a bike rack that I made up spare lights and number plate that plugged into the trailer 7 pin plug.
The car only senses the electrical and not the physical trailer.

Your problem is of course you are only trying to use the light part of the wiring and the indicators and brake are unused. This will cause the car sensor to throw a fault code in that it thinks the glove has blown.
to overcome this you would need to wire in a resistor to the same value as a trailer indicator and brake light would be expected each wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Unfortunately I think my dumbassery is going to cost considerably more to put right than yours.
 

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Do you have VCDS? Did you or the electrician run an auto-scan? If you suspect something with the BCM a scan would be the first place to look.
 

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Back to basics.

It sounds like you blew a fuse, but surely someone has ruled that out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had a bike rack that I made up spare lights and number plate that plugged into the trailer 7 pin plug.
The car only senses the electrical and not the physical trailer.

Your problem is of course you are only trying to use the light part of the wiring and the indicators and brake are unused. This will cause the car sensor to throw a fault code in that it thinks the glove has blown.
to overcome this you would need to wire in a resistor to the same value as a trailer indicator and brake light would be expected each wire.
Sounds right, I gave up trying to use the trailer plug and the trouble began when I connected to the taillight.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Do you have VCDS? Did you or the electrician run an auto-scan? If you suspect something with the BCM a scan would be the first place to look.
Electrician did a scan (about 3 times) he cleared a heap of fault codes and got to a point where it was telling him there is a "fault to ground" but it didnt say where and he couldn't track it down.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Back to basics.

It sounds like you blew a fuse, but surely someone has ruled that out.
All the fuses were checked. He did find one 20amp fuse that had blown but it was nothing to do with this problem. I think it was the comfort/sport suspension control. It'll be interesting to see what changes have been made in the car now all the fault codes have been cleared.
 

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I have a bike rack and used a motorbike tail/stop/number plate that is plugged into the trailer 7 pin plug.
I do get a warning that the trailer indicators have failed. But I can live with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have the plate light working, thats not the problem. The problem is my indicators don't work and I don't know how to fix them.
 

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one puzzling thing is that the indicator in the mirror still works but neither the front or rear indicators do.
Not puzzling at all in a network controlled car.

The mirror led light is controlled by the door's control module. It is a separate circuit from the front and rear turn bulbs.The wires are not shared, the power comes from a different fuse, and the control module that activates the light are different.

The front and rear signal lights are ran on the same circuit and run off of the same fuse.

Step 1. Hook up vcds. Read codes. Post codes. Clear codes. See what happens.
 

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Some folks with very similar symptoms: VWVortex.com - left turn signals working

There are actually a lot of google results with the same symptoms (signals on one side not working, except mirror). It is always a fuse. The fuse should be in the side dash panel on the same side of the car that is out. There are like 4 fuse boxes in these cars, so it could have been overlooked. If you find a blown fuses and it blows again when you replace it, you will need to find your short.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the help everybody. All the fuses were checked but I will pull them out when I have a chance and make sure the connections are good. Failing that it will need to go in to the specialists .
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Problem sorted. As Skitals said, it was a fuse. I stood and watched him test all the fuses in that panel twice with a test light, obviously the wrong tool for the job. What a bunch of incompetent clowns, $200 and they couldn't find a blown fuse. I will be having words with them.
 

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Problem sorted. As Skitals said, it was a fuse. I stood and watched him test all the fuses in that panel twice with a test light, obviously the wrong tool for the job. What a bunch of incompetent clowns, $200 and they couldn't find a blown fuse. I will be having words with them.
Glad it's sorted. Carrier looks great, too. Looks like it's above the hitch, so it shouldn't affect departure angle, yes? Did you have to cut up the bumper cover at all?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Glad it's sorted. Carrier looks great, too. Looks like it's above the hitch, so it shouldn't affect departure angle, yes? Did you have to cut up the bumper cover at all?
I'm really pleased with the way the wheel carrier came out. It is above the hitch so no problem with departure angle and all the weight of the wheel is taken by the hitch, I made sure to mount the wheel low enough that I can open the window without having to open the carrier.
I did have to make one small checkout in the bumper cover, it isn't easy to see in the photos but there is a brace from the end of the carrier that bolts on at the hitch mounting point. I used two of the hitch bolts to drop a piece of angle iron down below the bumper cover then bolted the brace to that. That is the lowest part of the carrier but still well out of the way departure wise.
 

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2010 VW Touareg TDI V6 - W/ Air
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Does your spare tire holder interfere with the back up sensors? If so how did you address that?
 
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