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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Everyone,

(Please forgive me, I'm only allowed to embed 10 pictures in the description below, please see all pictures at the end of the post... I'll re-post if the administrators are able to allow me more embedded pictures in the text)

I've been scanning the forums for a good tutorial on how to do a DIY install of an aftermarket bluetooth system for my '08 T2. I did find bits and pieces of info, but not a start to finish post. With what I knew, I installed it myself and want to share it with this community. Therefore, I hope this can help anyone looking to take this on themselves.

Let's get started!

First decide which aftermarket bluetooth system to get, I settled on a Parrot CK3100 LCD, sells from Parrot for $220. Better if you get it through for about $135.

You'll also need to buy a wiring harness for your vehicle. The link below is a sponsored on Parrot's website and will help you determine which one is the right one for your car.

For my '08 T2 it was a QCVW-1. I think this may be the standard connector for any VW 2004 and older, but best check, to be sure, using the link above. These harnesses are great, it's plug and play, no cutting or splicing.

The Quickconnect website sells it for about $55, I found it on for $29 (link below)

An absolutely must have are these specialty keys to remove the T2 radio. For $15 at USA Paypal order form they will mail you a set of 4.

Lastly, head to your local AutoZone (or equivalent) and buy something called a fuse tap and 2, 10 Amp fuses that will fit your new fuse tap (make sure the fuses they fit the fuse tap!… I didn't the first time and had to make a second trip). This will provide 12V power to the Parrot system by way of the QCVW-1 harness.

Once all that stuff arrives, you'll need a handful of tools to get the job done.

  • Zip-Ties (to safely and neatly tuck away all the wires)
  • A Torx screwdriver set
  • Thin blade, I used a small pocket knife
  • Flashlight
  • Wire strippers
  • Crimp tool
  • A little courage to yank and pull on car parts harder than you think you should
Step 1) Time and Material

Leave time for this project, depending on your speed, it could take the better part of a day to complete.

Make sure you have everything, the last thing you want is to have your car torn apart and realize you don't have everything you need (as outlined above).

  • Bluetooth kit
  • Wiring harness
  • Radio removal keys
  • Fuse Tap
  • Tools mentioned above
Step 2) Install the Parrot microphone

* Start by using the small blade to pop/remove the plastic cap with the word "AIRBAG" on the driver side trim. Look for it on the trim between the windshield and the driver side door.

* Use the Torx screwdriver to remove the screw behind the cap.

* With a little courage, first pull down on the trim, enough to clear any obstructions that won't allow you to pull the trim up and back (think of it as trying to pull the trim over your head). The trim is just pressure fitted in there, pull on it hard enough and it will come out.

* Next, mount the microphone with the big plastic clip and place it in the top left hand corner of your windshield. Using the plastic clip to get behind the ceiling upholstery.

* Run the microphone wire down along the wire bundle zip-tying it along the way.

* With the driver side door open, remove the side dash cover and the thin trim piece between the door and the dash. Mine pulled right off, no screws to loosen. Once you remove the side dash cover, you'll see the fuse block below the vent. This is also where we'll place the fuse tap a little later.

* Lastly, remove the two Torx screws for the plastic cover in the driver side footwell (where your feet are when you're driving). Remove the cover, but before you can completely remove the cover you'll need to disconnect two connectors, one for the footwell light and one for the computer diagnostic port. Disconnect the footwell light cable by pressing in on the front and back of the connector; remove the computer diagnostic cable by releasing the 3 clips (one in front two in the back) that keep it attached to the plastic cover.

* Run the microphone wire down the side of the dash and into the footwell space, where we'll connect it to our Parrot receiver later on.

* At this point you can replace the first piece of trim you removed (the one with the "AIRBAG" plastic cap), don't forget to put the Torx screw back in before replacing the plastic "AIRBAG" cap.

* Leave the side dash cover off as well as the other small trim piece.

Step 3) Remove the radio and connect the harness and Parrot cables.

* Rather than try to explain this first part, I found a YouTube video that does a nice job. Taking out the keys is easier than he makes it out to be, all you need is a small screwdriver… watch this video until minute 2:38 and then also remove the other two wires on the radio that he doesn't remove. Hint, play with the new QCVW-1 harness to figure out how the lever-lock works. There is a release that you find before being able to pull back on the radio harness, don't force it.

* YouTube:

* Use the small flat head screw driver and press down on the upper most part of the slide clip on the radio…. you'll see a bit of this clip being held by the key you shoved in the front of the radio… all you need to do is get this clip to release and the key will slide right out.

* Set the radio aside for now and grab the QCVW-1 harness and two sets of cables that come with your Parrot system. These are the cables that one one end plug into the QCVW-1 harness and on the other end plug into blue Parrot box.

* I fed the end that goes to the Parrot box through the radio compartment down to the foot well. Leaving enough of the opposite end (radio/harness connectors) to work with comfortably. One trick is to place a strong light source in the foot well and then find a path from the radio compartment down. With the light in the foot well it becomes clear where you need to feed the Parrot cables through. The third cable you'll run is the red 12VDC cable from the QCVW-1 harness. Also drop this one down to the footwell, you'll later run it across to the fuse box.


* Make sure you grab the right mute cable. The harness has quite a few that are labeled "Mute", only one is used. My T2 doesn't have Navigation, so no fancy display, just the basic radio. Read the tags on the mute cables and grab the mute cable that is for your car's radio type. Again, the bag that the QCVW-1 harness comes in explains all of this really well if you read it slowly and carefully.


* This next part is where you'll need lots of small zip ties. Take the QCVW-1 harness and make all the connections, follow the instructions not the bag the harness comes in, there is just one way to hook it up. Once all the connections are made, start zip tying together bundles of wires that go to and come from the same connectors. This will greatly clean up the mess and make it easier to work with once you try to shove all this stuff back into the radio compartment. This is how mine looked once I finished…

* Patience comes next. With everything nicely zip-tied it's time to stuff it all back in. The fist thing to do is grab the original radio connector that now goes to the harness and shove it underneath the key/ignition. The connector is a bit large so it will take a little convincing to get it in there, behind the plastic radio compartment walls. There is a fair amount of open space under the dash (to the left when looking into the radio hole), lots of space to shove all the new wires into.

* I lightly tugged on the Parrot provided wires (now in the footwell) to help everything move along as I fed the remainder of the QCVW-1 harness with the Parrot cables into the space under the dash. This takes a little time and patience, I actually stopped for lunch and came back to it. I read some people took Dremel tool to take out non-structural plastic. You don't need to do this! there is plenty of space under the dash for the wires.


* Once I got it all back in there, this is how it looked

* You are finished when all you have left is the the radio connector and the two other wires that the guy in the Youtube video didn't take off.

* Don't connect the radio just yet, we'll do that once the remainder of the Parrot hardware is installed, you may have to still fuss with wires here as we install the rest of it.

Step 4) Install the Parrot brains (blue box) and 12VDC harness cable

* Connect the blue Parrot box to the cables in the footwell


* Once I removed the footwell cover, I noticed a nice flat area on top of the foot well vents, that's where we'll place the blue Parrot box. But first I connected the Parrot provided cables (that you fed down into the footwell from the radio compartment) to the blue box and zip tied together the excess cable that I didn't need.

* Place the blue box on top of the vent and zip tie it in place.


* Connect the microphone jack that we ran down into the footwell during the Step 2, and zip tie the excess microphone cable that you don't need.

* Take the red 12V wire from the QCVW-1 harness and run it across the top of the footwell to the fuse holder area, zip tying as needed.

* With the fuse tap and fuses you bought from AutoZone, remove one 10 Amp fuse from the fuse box and replace it with your fuse tap and the two 10 Amp fuses that you put into it. I only show one fuse int he fuse tap, but you'll need to put both in.


* I removed the lower 10 Amp fuse that had some open slots around it for the fuse tap to fit in.

* Next, strip the end of the 12VDC cable from the QCVW-1 harness and feed it into the pigtail of the fuse tap. Use the wire crimp tool to secure the connection.

Step 5) Install the Parrot display

* I didn't like placing the display in the center of the dash like some other people suggested, rather I mounted the display with the double sided tape on the trim underneath the driver's window side air vent. Right underneath the vent open/close control and above the headlight switch knob.


* I like it here because, 1) the wire is easy to tuck away 2) It ads privacy, only the driver can see the display 3) The display has it's own light source and would be distracting when driving at night if it was mounted in the center 4) It's very easily reached by my left hand.

* Once you have it mounted with double stick tape, take a flathead screwdriver and gently push it between the trim and the dash cover below it. Twist the screwdriver a little to separate the two enough for the display cable to squeezed in between.

* Run the display cable down to the Parrot blue box, mounted on the foot well air vent and zip tie together what you don't need.

* Please be careful to not zip tie things in such a way that they could become damaged or worse restrict motion when applying the brake or accelerator. Only zip tie cable to non moving parts and out of the way of anything that does move.

Step 6) Replace the radio

* To connect the harness, I lifted the radio right to the opening of the dash such as to not pull out any of the neatly tucked away cables from Step 3. Reconnect the harness cable and the 2 other cables (I believe they are antenna cables)

==== picture

* Put the radio on the rails and slide it in, but not the whole way. By leaving it out a bit you can test the system to make sure everything works before having go through the trouble of removing it all again if something isn't right.

* Furthermore, if you did everything right, the radio should easily slide back in place. I have read some post where users mentioned having to shove with significant force to get the radio back in place. I barely nudged mine back into the slot, once I checked that everything worked.

Step 7) Make sure it all works

* Put the key in the ignition and turn it briefly (without your foot on the brake pedal) to only turn on the electrical system.
* If you did everything right, the Parrot display should light up and show some startup graphics (you guessed it… a Parrot)

==== picture

* Also, turn on the radio and and play something (radio, CD) to make sure everything still works as before.

* Follow the instructions in your Parrot user manual to connect your phone, make a call as you're listening to radio. The radio should mute when you place/receive a call and returns once you hangup.

Step 8 ) Clean up

* Perform one last check that everything is neatly zip tied and tucked away.

* Push the radio in the last little bit, if it fights you pull it back out and make sure you have your cables tucked away as described in Step 3

* Replace all the trim and covers that you removed during the process. Remember to reconnect the foot well light and computer diagnostic cable connector before covering up the footwell.

* Done!


3 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hello Jbreunis,

Glad you liked it, I'm still working with the administrators to get all the pictures in the right places... but at least they are at the end, even if it takes a bit of searching to find the right one.

Let me know if you have any questions.


100 Posts
Owen, THANKS for the great write-up. I just finished the install of a Parrot 9200 and your write-up really helped a lot!

9 Posts
Owen, excellent write up. One question I have does your treg have the digital amp in the back? I've been trying to gather some info and have seen that if a digital amp is present there could be some issues with respect to noise etc, nothing conclusive though. I'm thinking of installing the parrot 9000 so it is totally hidden. I have the standard delta radio with the amp and cd changer.
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