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I realized that my rotors are way beyond their wear limit and I haven't completed my first month with the Treg since the purchase. There must be a 3mm lip on each side of the rotor and the pads look 95% new. I don't have my calipers available to me. I can't get an exact measurement.
I am a bit agitated with myself that I didn't bother to check. I won't make that mistake again. Should I call the dealership and point out that they missed a few steps and need to repair the Treg or am I floating down the proverbial stinky river using my worthless CPO Program pamphlet to try to paddle?
I can't find exact literature for the 112 point check list and I want to get my talking points and "case law" in order before I roll into the dealer to solve this issue.
I don't want to have to eat the cost of the brakes on top of replacing the summer only tires that came on the rig for the upcoming winter. Too much for one month!
 

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I would go back to the dealer. I went back for my radio, cigarette charger wasn't working, middle console latch was sketchy at best and they fixed them all. I would think breaks should have/would have been done prior to sale. Did you buy it in NJ? What dealership?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I would go back to the dealer. I went back for my radio, cigarette charger wasn't working, middle console latch was sketchy at best and they fixed them all. I would think breaks should have/would have been done prior to sale. Did you buy it in NJ? What dealership?
I didn't buy in NJ. I bought from a know dealer in Florida Aristocrat VW and from a long time family friend. Between My sister and myself we have bought 8 cars from him over the years. He should definitely take care of this. Plus, it comes out of VW's pocket not the dealers so I would think this would be a no brainer.

If it's a good dealer they should take care of it for you.
They are a good dealer. I have never had a problem with them. As for Atlantic VW here in NJ its anyones guess...

Does anyone know what exactly the 112 points are for the inspection. I found links to PDFs but with no list of checkpoints just advertising fluff.
 

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Your dealership should have provided you the " Inspection and Condition Report" Call them again and ask for it. If you have a fax number, I'll fax you what I got when I purchased mine here in Ontario , CA.
 

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VW doesn't pay for the rotors the dealer who CPO's it does so don't know where you got that mis-information. They are not warranty items unless defective...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
VW doesn't pay for the rotors the dealer who CPO's it does so don't know where you got that mis-information. They are not warranty items unless defective...
This is not a warranty problem. This is Dealer deception or an oversite in the inspection process at very least. I am stating that the rotors were out of spec and should have been replaced before the vehicle was sold per the VW CPO Program. The rotors are way past the replacement point. This Treg was the Dealerships Head mechanics wife's car. I believe they just passed it off and signed the paperwork because they could.

I just need to find out all the inspection points for the CPO so I can speak my point and hold them to their advertising without any real ugliness. If I can't make my point I will certainly have my attorney make it for me. I didn't buy this Treg so in under 1000 miles I could fork out 500 - 1000 bucks for brakes! I admit I was not thorough in my inspection but that does not change the fact that they sold a vehicle that did not live up to the CPO programs criteria.
I just want what I paid the Premium for.
 

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Don't hold your breath. I went through the same type of thing on a CPO Touareg. The dealership said "you got a good price so it is what it is" and VW customer complaints stated that it was not their problem, I had to take it up with the dealer. They do not stand by the CPO promise. A lawyer would have been $$$. They all laughed at me. They had their money.
 

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Um, was this a manufacturer-backed CPO warranty? or a dealer CPO warranty? If the latter, I'll go with your "deception" allegation. If factory, VW should get involved - as rotors are definitely a "replace if necessary" item on the CPO checklist.

I realize this horse is already out of the barn. But I personally would never consider a dealer CPO. I had a manufacturer-backed CPO Mercedes before this Touareg, and was quite satisfied.

//greg//
 

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My CPO was from the factory (VW Canada). They still stated that it was up to the dealer to live up to the 120 point inspection and as such was not their problem. They only deal with warranty claims, not CPO inspection breaches. The dealer stopped returning my calls. It was an out of province purchase so a face to face was not possible.
 

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I realized that my rotors are way beyond their wear limit and I haven't completed my first month with the Treg since the purchase. There must be a 3mm lip on each side of the rotor and the pads look 95% new. I don't have my calipers available to me. I can't get an exact measurement.
A. how do you know they are in need of replacement just by feeling the edge?

B. I am curious as to your mileage and then if the rotors have ever been replaced.

The rotors on our s4 audi needed replacement around 40k-45k but i also went to a long hpde track day once.

However, the rotors on my bmw are still 10-15k miles away from needing the first replacement and i'm at 52,000.

My land rover needs new rotors and it's at 53k but it weighs more than 2000 lbs over your Touareg.
 

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My land rover needs new rotors and it's at 53k but it weighs more than 2000 lbs over your Touareg.
Huh?

Land Rovers range in weight but few weigh more than 2600kg, which is about 100kg heavier than the Touareg (all of course dependent on model),
but a LR weighing ±1000kg more than a Touareg?
 

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mine was 8000 lbs last time i went across a scale fully set for trip. another time it was 7500. steel and other stuff
 

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@4.2FSI - I do not think you can judge rotor wear based on the lip as some of this is often rust.

To be absolutely sure of your facts before accusing the dealer of shortcomings in their vehicle preparation, it might be best to check the actual thickness of each of the rotors across the swept, bare metal faces using calipers.

I don't know the minimum rotor thickness but I'm sure someone on here does and can advise.

It is possible to fit two sets of pads per one set of rotors and still be in tolerance.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
@4.2FSI - I do not think you can judge rotor wear based on the lip as some of this is often rust.

To be absolutely sure of your facts before accusing the dealer of shortcomings in their vehicle preparation, it might be best to check the actual thickness of each of the rotors across the swept, bare metal faces using calipers.

I don't know the minimum rotor thickness but I'm sure someone on here does and can advise.

It is possible to fit two sets of pads per one set of rotors and still be in tolerance.
The Quote below explains the tolerances.

From QPower1: I can say without reservation, if you can feel a 1 mm lip at the edge of the rotor, that's it! The rotor is at minimum thickness, 2mm across both plates, inboard and outboard. There is no reason to waste time or money on further investigation. Frankly, you can't properly mount a second set of brake pads to an old rotor that's been thru a set of pads already.

You will only invite thermal troubles with these brakes.

There is so much already written within ClubTouareg about this.

You are speaking about this as if you had a 70's era vehicle, or maybe an Asian or American vehicle with NAO or Ceramic brakes. They may operate under a different set of thermal circumstances and wear, but not the Touareg brakes.

Geoff
I can press my finger on the lip and it goes straight to the bone there is not any rust on this thing its not a norther vehicle. I put a penny on the rotor and it is just under flush with the lip. A penny is 0.075" or 1.904mm to a combination of 3.8mm combined wear. Which puts this past its spec point. This info combined with Geoff's from Alretta means the dealer just didn't live up to their deal.
 

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Fair enough - you did measure it!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Issue resolved via compromise. Aristocrat VW is sending me the complete repair package. Rotors Pads and sensors to my doorstep zero dollars out of my pocket! I don't even have to drop it at the dealer to do my brakes. I can do it all myself just the way I like it!!
An awesome day in the garage getting dirty is in my future!
:clapclap::clapclap::clapclap: :pelvic_thrust::pelvic_thrust::joy::joy:
 

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sounds like they did the right thing!
 

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It is possible to fit two sets of pads per one set of rotors and still be in tolerance.
In the olden days perhaps.; But since the switchover to electro-hydraulic brake systems, rotors/pads/sensor wires should be replaced as a set.

//greg//
 

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I can do it all myself just the way I like it!!
An awesome day in the garage getting dirty is in my future!
Hopefully it won't be too memorable. If you haven't done a brake job on one of the new electro-hydraulic systems, I strongly recommend you read up on it first. One guy I knew didn't know he was supposed to disconnect the battery. He had a caliper assembly removed, and hung to the side while he started working on removing the rotor. He didn't want to deal with dripping fluid, so the flexible brake line had not yet been disconnected. A family member carrying a key fob happened to get too close while he was taking things apart. The car detected the key fob, energized the pump, the pump pressurized - and sent one of the pads flying across the garage.

I'm not saying that this will happen to you. But it's just an example to demonstrate that there are new procedures associated with brake jobs on the newer "brake by wire" systems.

//greg//
 
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