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Don't try to use LED replacements - the lumen outputs are 'theoretical' and the optics on them are no good. I can refer you here: LED vs HID and tell you that Matt knows what he's talking about.

I read through all of the discussions on the poor headlight output which is really surprising, given how impressive my Treg is in light output.

I haven't seen clear answers to 2 things, one of which has been asked several times:

1) Are the optics out from the bulb clear? If they aren't, you aren't going to fix it with any bulb/etc. You need clear optics, and more than likely you need to replace the units if they have fogged/clouded/scratched. You could try to polish them, but lens creation and polishing is not a trivial feat.

2) Has anyone actually put a meter on their bulb socket, ballast, etc and checked actual voltages and currents? I haven't seen actual voltage/current numbers anywhere. If you have a bad relay, bad ground, corrosion, failing ballasts, etc you should be able to see it this way. You can step back through the circuit and find exactly the point which has failed.

Properly functioning D1S HIDs are *plenty* bright, there is no design failure involved despite a lot of groaning about "poorly designed lighting".
 

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Also for imquattro - yours clearly are in a failure state. It's not a matter of the light output on the low beams you have being low, it looks like your low beams essentially don't work. The amount of light output you showed in the pictures looked roughly like what DRLs should be producing. That's not how they're designed to work for sure, but I couldn't say what the failure is specifically - I'm guessing it's in one of the two areas mentioned above.
 

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Testing the HID will be interesting. If you know your way around a multimeter, you should be able to do it without much special access. If you can get to the ballast and the bulb socket both, you should be golden.

I would test first on the primary side (towards the battery) and measure your voltage/current draw from the ballast. This will tell you if the problem is in your general electrical supply in the vehicle, bad alternator, bad ground, etc. If that part tests OK, then you get into a funny spot.

Honestly, if you get there, I'd probably not mess around with the ballast, I'd get a new known good one and swap it out and just test it that way. If you REALLY want to prove it out without buying a new ballast first, you're going to need to really know what you're doing. The startup voltage coming out of that ballast is going to be up to like 30kV. That's no messing around - that'll go through air pretty well. You need to get the bulb lit before you attach it to the meter and see the output.

If any of this sounds at all questionable to you, don't mess with the ballast output, just get a replacement and test it that way.
 
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