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I just took the Egg in for a engine light that came on. After having replaced a fuel pump, I thought I was finished with going to the dealer again.

I was wrong. The Service Advisor told me I had some additional problems.

1st - he tells me I need to replace the Crankcase Breather. The car started to rattle a bit yesterday, and the check engine light came on after. I thought maybe it was poor workmanship from the dealer, so I took it back.

2nd - they found sludge in my oil. The vehicle gets oil changes every 5000 miles. At all times. Why did this happen? I just realized that when I had my oil changed, they have been using a synthetic blend 5-30. The advisor told me I need to use full synthetic. WTF? Is this true?

I need some advise. Where is the crankcase breather located? Is it a simple fix I could do at home?

What can I do about the sludge buildup? The advisor stated it wasn't that bad, but recommended I do a Desludge at $535 or if it does not fix the problem they will have to replace the pick up tube at $2200. :-(

Fellow Treg owners, any advise or comments are greatly appreciated.
 

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Yes you need to use vw spec oil,and it must be fully synthetic,5-40 Castrol,Mobil 1,ect.
 

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my suggestion to you is this - you can "desluged" by changing the oil 3x w/i 5k - and use castrol 5w40 - now if you do your own changes a pretty easy fix - if you take it to the dealer well it is what it is - why did they say the crankcase breather - do you have a lean code? - i own an 04 v6 - i yet to see and issues since their inception to the market -
27-07-01 - Generator, Insufficient Output When Equipped with HID/Bi-Xenon Headlamps and/or Air Suspension
 

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The advisor told me that the crankcase breather is leaking, and needs to be replaced. Now, what is he talking about? Is it a hose that is leaking, or what? I don't know. Crankcase breather, is it pretty easy to replace? He said he could order it on Monday, and parts and labor $275.
 

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Don't give the stealer $535 for a "desludge", better known as a high colonic:p for the unsuspecting Touareg owner. Just run a 05W-40 diesel oil like 5W-40 Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck oil for a couple thousand miles (the high detergent load will scour out the crud) and then change the oil and filter and refill with Castrol 5W-40 Syntec or Mobil 1 0W-40..
 

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The advisor told me that the crankcase breather is leaking, and needs to be replaced. Now, what is he talking about? Is it a hose that is leaking, or what? I don't know. Crankcase breather, is it pretty easy to replace? He said he could order it on Monday, and parts and labor $275.
The crankcase breather is a device (hose/ open filtered element/ PCV valve/ etc) which allows 'blow-by' or built-up fumes in the engine's crankcase to escape. On a modern emissions-controlled vehicle like the Treg, these fumes are usually re-ingested by the engine through the intake. Scroll down to "Air ventilation" in this Wikipedia link.

I haven't replaced one on the Treg, but it's a piece of cake on the Mustang... Takes all of 5 minutes and about $15.00. (aahh, the beauty of owning a cheap, easy to maintain muscle car!) :D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Does anyone know where the Crankcase Breather is located on the Treg? What does one look like?
Any idea on the cost of the part?
I called the local import part store and they told me it's a dealer part only. Any ideas?

One more thing, the Treg is shaky on idle and stops ( I can feel the car vibrate). Is this due to the Crankcase breather? Is it okay to drive short distances in this case?
 

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i would let the dealer address the crankcase breather issue and yes it would contribute to the idling issue - good luck
 

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resind my last post the crankcase breather vent n79 is a fairly easy fix - it's on top of the intake manifold round in shape with a breather tube on one and end and an electrical connector on the other - good luck
 

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resind my last post the crankcase breather vent n79 is a fairly easy fix - it's on top of the intake manifold round in shape with a breather tube on one and end and an electrical connector on the other - good luck
Gavin, thank for the reply. I am not a mechanic or mechanically inclined. Is there anyway you can show me a picture or a diagram of what it actually looks like. I am thinking if it is just a leak or maybe a hole, couldn't I just patch it for the meantime? The dealer told me that it was just a leak somewhere, but did not tell me exactly where.
 

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Gavin, thank for the reply. I am not a mechanic or mechanically inclined. Is there anyway you can show me a picture or a diagram of what it actually looks like. I am thinking if it is just a leak or maybe a hole, couldn't I just patch it for the meantime? The dealer told me that it was just a leak somewhere, but did not tell me exactly where.
Gavin, never mind about the pics or diagram. Just received one from the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Diagram of Breather

Here is the diagram just in case anyone needs for future purposes. It is item number 30, which is circled.
 

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How do I get this off?

Fellow Tregger I am in need of some advise. Do I need a special tool to get the Crankcase breather off? The round twist knob is what I am in conflict with. Does it turn clockwise or counter clockwise? The tube portion is fairly easy, but just can't understand how the cap comes off. I am afraid that I might break it somehow. Am I in need of a special tool to remove this?

Please look at the diagram I attached with the note.
 

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Well looks like the New Crancase Breather took care of the issue. I just came back from the dealer and as soon as they slapped the part on, the engine stopped vibrating and no more feeling of it stalling. The dealer wanted $275 to replace the part (part & labor), I played dumb and asked the tech on how to take the part off. He took a look at it and grabbed a screwdriver. Very gently he lifted the tabs of the cap and lifted the part out. He then took the new part and put it in for me. The part was $152, they wanted $125 to take out and replace. What the hell were they thinking? It took the tech no more than 30 seconds to replace.

Thanks to Gavin
for all the help and information on how to go about this issue.
This is a great forum for Do-It-Yourselfers.

I hope this will keep the Check Engine light off for awhile. I know it is emminent before something comes up again, but till then I am a happy camper.

I just need to solve the sludge problem now. Oh, the tech then also stated to get rid of the sludge you don't have to run expensive full synthetic oil to clean up the sludge. Just run some good Mobile 1 or Castrol oil for about the next 5000 to 6000 miles and that will get rid of a lot of sludge. After, run synthetic to keep it clean.
 

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to the tech defence thats is how we get paid - if pays on hour and it take 5 minutes the we get paid and hour - now the caviat to that is if it pay an hour and it take 3 hours well i should have to say more - the key is to diag correctly the first time - ie frft! (fixed right the first time) - boo ya! - stay tuned!
 
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