No idea if there is a previous thread or something but have you opened up the cooling system recently? It could absolutely be air. What makes you think it's even overheating to begin with? For the record 110° is not hot unless you were talking Celsius

 

Thank you very much for your interest. It is Celsius. I measured it with Carly OBD while driving, live data. If you want to understand it, you have to read my previous threads on the subject.

 

Why do you want to check the fan after just literally telling us that the fan was running?
What does the fan have to do with coolant flow?
Do you have any idea of what you're doing or the basic operating principle of a cooling system?

 

sorry, I should have said. I want to check the old fan before I throw it in the trash. Maybe it isn't broken.

 

Do you want to diagnose your heap or worry about parts that you've loaded up into the cannon that you've already fired?

 

If you have nothing else but stupid sayings, I would ask you not to comment on my posts anymore.

 

You can ask all you want... I'll just ignore you.

Was the coolant system worked on? Or opened up for any reason?

 

These are a PITA to bleed once you replace coolant etc, as everyone else is saying on here

Trust me, I did a water pump on mine and it literally took 2.5 hours until the system would bleed and for the fan to kick on and both pipes be hot (and that’s heater on max to speed up the process)

 

These are a PITA to bleed once you replace coolant etc, as everyone else is saying on here

Trust me, I did a water pump on mine and it literally took 2.5 hours until the system would bleed and for the fan to kick on and both pipes be hot (and that’s heater on max to speed up the process)

Exactly why this question keeps being asked but remains unanswered. Yes they are a monster pain in the ass to burp when the cooling system is broken into.

 

Not sure if it’s relevant to this engine but I vacuum filled my cayenne coolant 3 times following the oem instructions until it was properly done…waisted several gallons of coolant in the process…
I was monitoring the live temperature data from the sensor at the bottom hose of the radiator, the thermostat position (it’s electronic one) and the other engine coolant temperature sensor…

 

I'll have the thermostat changed at the workshop. My garage isn't heated, and it's currently -10 to -20° C in Winnipeg. I measured the temperature of 110° C with OBD while driving. The VR6 has a mechanical thermostat.

 

Yes it's relevant... but the owner likes a custom approach.

 

fourth act... coming soon

 

I’m not sure about this since I don’t have 7P (hopefully someone will confirm it), but I think you should have 2 temperature sensors. One for the instrument gauge and one that is located on the bottom hose of the radiator that engages the fan. See the live data from both…

If you feel just warm hose after the thermostat when you gauge is showing overheating temperatures it means either your thermostat is not working properly or you have air in the system…

Did you vacuum filled the new coolant?
Can you monitor the live data from both sensors?
Do you see rapid climbing coolant temperature when you start from cold?
Does it slow down when reaching ~150F when the thermostat should open?

 

 

I have the impression that some clever commentators are lost without their VCDS.

I may be stupid.

 

In Germany there is a saying, "affected dogs bark"

Of course I'm stupid because I don't have VCDS and I found out why my engine is overheating without a specialist workshop and the professionals here.

 

but relied on the opinion of experts

As hard as you try on this forum, you'll never find one amongst these clowns...

 

Not everyone can be so smart as to try to make a dual-MAF system into a single-MAF such as yourself, oh superior one. We bow down to thee and avert our eyes from thy shiny scalp.

 

Are You sure Your tempsensors are read okay?

If thermostat is closed?


Temp sensor at VW are known for being bad.
They use similar type everywhere.

Are You sure they read the coolant temp right? If they are broken they can give incorrect values.

I hade one (out of 2) going out of bounds (telling me overheating), and engine was practically cold.
It made cooling fan go all the time, and changeing injection timing, making it very hard to start.

If You know You have fluid in engine, start with changeing the temp sensor/s.
Then, if not okay, replace the thermostat.

And continue fault tracing if still not working?

If coolant not above 110C, I guess not a problem?

Last Friday, mine overheated too.
It was dark so I never did see the smoke behind.
But I noticed the temp sensor at 120+, and stopped.
Then there was smoke.

Water pump broke... big time.
Luckily enough it didnt break off so the time belt came loose (running the cams).

Some Mayo in the oil.
But I hope the EGR. I will see when I changed the pump, and oil, what it will look like.

 

Are You sure Your tempsensors are read okay?

If thermostat is closed?


Temp sensor at VW are known for being bad.
They use similar type everywhere.

Are You sure they read the coolant temp right?

I hade one (out of 2) going out of bounds (telling me overheating), and engine was practically cold.
I made cooling fan go all the time, and changeing injection timing, making it very hard to start.

If You know You have fluid in engine, start with changeing the temp sensor/s.
Then, if not okay, replace the thermostat.

And continue fault tracing if still not working?

If coolant not above 110C, I guess not a problem?

Last Friday, mine overheated too.
It was dark so I never did see the smoke behind.
But I noticed the temp sensor at 120+, and stopped.
Then there was smoke.

Water pump broke... big time.
Luckily enough it didnt break of so the time belt came loose (running the cams).

Some Mayo in the oil.
But I hope the EGR. I will see when I changed the pump, and oil, what it will look like.

I don't know whether the sensors are measuring correctly. As far as I know, you can check this by measuring resistance. The sensors must have a defined electrical resistance. The higher the temperature, the lower the resistance. But to do that you would need to know what values the manufacturer specifies. As soon as it gets warmer in Winnipeg, I will check it. At the moment it is about -20°C.
Thanks for the tip.

 

I don't know whether the sensors are measuring correctly. As far as I know, you can check this by measuring resistance. The sensors must have a defined electrical resistance. The higher the temperature, the lower the resistance. But to do that you would need to know what values the manufacturer specifies. As soon as it gets warmer in Winnipeg, I will check it. At the moment it is about -20°C.
Thanks for the tip.

I thought about it again. Assuming that the temperatures measured by the OBD are correct, the thermostat should be open at 108°C and all cooling lines should be warm or hot. The opening starts at 87°. The sensors control the fan, which also runs at 108°. It is clear that no coolant is running through the radiator. It doesn't really matter what the sensors measure. The thermostat is not controlled electrically.

Imagine having a software that enabled you to sit in your nice warm car and can pull all this data for you 🤓

Yes, I know VCDS. But the VCDS measures the electrical signals. If the sensor sends a wrong value, the VCDS can only measure the wrong value. The VCDS measures the temperatures of the sensors and then uses the difference to determine whether the thermostat is stuck. And I can also determine whether my cooling pipes are hot or cold. I just touch them.

 

Yes, I know VCDS. But the VCDS measures the electrical signals. If the sensor sends a wrong value, the VCDS can only measure the wrong value. The VCDS measures the temperatures of the sensors and then uses the difference to determine whether the thermostat is stuck. And I can also determine whether my cooling pipes are hot or cold. I just touch them.

If a sensor is bad, you can see that the reading it gives is nonsense in VCDS, and doesn't agree with what it feels like from touching that area, or using an infrared thermometer.

Personally, I'd confirm that it's really as hot as you're reading with some type of alternate thermometer. If it's truly overheating, I'd first re-bleed the cooling system, and if that doesn't work, remove the thermostat and visually test it in hot water.

 

I don't know why you don't listen when people try to help you.
Your engine has 2 temp sensors. You need to know which of them your tool is reading from, or look at both readouts.
You need to know if your shrouded WP is functioning or not.
You need some basic troubleshooting before you do any other random thing if you want to do it properly or save any money.
You need to follow the correct coolant refill procedure.
You need a service manual if you don't understand any of what I'm saying.

 

I don't know why you don't listen when people try to help you.
Your engine has 2 temp sensors. You need to know which of them your tool is reading from, or look at both readouts.
You need to know if your shrouded WP is functioning or not.
You need some basic troubleshooting before you do any other random thing if you want to do it properly or save any money.
You need to follow the correct coolant refill procedure.
You need a service manual if you don't understand any of what I'm saying.

There is only one component in the cooling system that opens or closes the large cooling circuit. That is the thermostat. The sensors have no influence on the function of the thermostat. The OBD showed a coolant temperature of 100°C. I stopped, opened the hood, the fan was running. So the relevant sensor must have transmitted the correct value. The radiator and the return line to the thermostat were cold. I will flush the system thoroughly, replace the thermostat and refill it. You will be the first to know if it worked.

 

I don't know why you don't listen when people try to help you.

Yes you do:

you don't understand any of what I'm saying.

 

So it's my German... I get it.

 

Da