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Title says it alL. I have a 13 model. Ten seconds after cranking, cooling fan runs on high. Stays on high the entire cranked time. Turn the car off and the fan runs on low for the next five or so minutes. Only 55,000 miles. Assumed I had it covered under warranty, but assumed wrong. Very doesn't cover electrical after 36000 miles. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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My understanding from a VW tech explaining to me when i had thermostat probs is there is a short in the system somewhere. The fan is a fail safe for numerous systems where as it will keep running if something is not right .... and not only a heating problem. I never did get a chance to understand his explanation properly. Sorry.

Get a scan and see what comes of it
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info. But I have no trouble lights on the dash to scan. I was curious to know if someone could tell me if the gauge on the dash shows normal, 200 degrees, if it could still be a coolant temp sensor that is out. And where it would be located.
 

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I've been searching this issue with my 2008 V8 that has always run the fan, and when it's off the fan continues to run for about 90 seconds everytime, no matter how long engine ran or how hot my engine is.
 

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i see you have vagcom .... no flags come up on a scan obviously ??

I will be catching my ex vw tech soon i'll try and get him to give me detail on what had explained to me earlier
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I had assumed that I would have to have a trouble light on the dash for their to be codes. Is that not the case. Does the car just save the trouble codes and not necessarily throw up a light on the dash. If so, I saw the vag com tool online for very cheap. Is that all I need to read codes, besides s laptop?
 

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From the Ross Tek wiki:

18613/P2181/008577 - Ross-Tech Wiki


18613/P2181/008577 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System

Possible Symptoms
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON
Reduced Heater Output - Cold toes
Incorrect Temperature Gauge Readings
Increased Emissions

Possible Causes
Faulty Coolant Sensor
Faulty Coolant Thermostat
Faulty Wiring, Connections

Note: This fault code sets when engine coolant temperature mapping is lower and out of expected range based on operating conditions of the engine.

For example: Engine warms up, thermostat opens and stays open, coolant temperature drops below normal operating range. The ECM knows the coolant temperature should stay within 80.0...110.0 °C typically after warm up. Thus a drop in coolant temperature below normal operating temperature is not possible without a Malfunction in Cooling System.


Possible Solutions
Check G62 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sender
Inspect wiring for G62 (Coolant Migration, damage, corrosion, etc)
Check (if applicable) G83 - Radiator Outlet, Coolant Temperature Sender
Inspect wiring for G83 (Coolant Migration, damage, corrosion, etc)
Check Coolant Thermostat
Use Graph function in VCDS, Measuring Value Blocks - MVB
Start Engine cold, graph Coolant Temperature Sender (G62) Typically MVB Group-001
Hold RPM around 1,500rpm and watch coolant temp increase in Graph until thermostat opens, indicated by a slight drop in coolant temp
If coolant temp drops below minimum operating temperature (80°C) or never reaches operating temperature, (verified by external thermometer) suspect failed thermostat
Vehicles with both G62-Engine Outlet, Coolant Temperature Sensor and G83-Radiator Outlet, Coolant Temperature Sensor
Use Measuring Value Block group MVB-130 instead on MVB-001
G62 should increase in Temperature before G83 increase when engine coolant is cold
G83 will increase when the thermostat opens and after G62 reaches operating temperature (80°C)
If G62 and G83 both increase while engine warms up, suspect failed thermostat
 

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I am having the same problem with my 2013 VR6. Resetting the computer? Disconnect the battery? Anything else? I have replaced the fan and checked the fuses as well. No dash lights or warnings.
 

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What about the coolant temperature sensors which control when the fan operates?

And the thermostat?

Have you run a VCDS scan to see what's going on?
 

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The temp gauge is working properly as well. I am going to disconnect the battery and see if that will reset the unit. If that does not work i am going to take it auto zone and have them scan it. See what pops up.
 

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But autozone scan is free... and more or less useless on these vehicles....
 

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If the reset does not work, I am not opposed to taking it to the dealer or shop for a scan. I am needing this thing fixed. I am tired of freezing all the way to the office. I will post back in a few hours after I reset. Fingers crossed but doubtful.
 

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You didn't give us the full picture in your first post, did you?

How long is your journey to work - time and miles - and the heater is cold the whole way?

Why did you fit a new fan?

Anything else you've missed out?
 

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Air pocket
 

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It is about 14 miles to work. The car does warm up. I fitted a new fan thinking it was the fan control module. That is integrated into the fan assembly. Everything else works as it should including the temp gauge. The car does take some time to warm up in very cold weather (29 degrees F) . But it will get warm. The only thing that is not right is the fan comes on 20 seconds after I start the car and does not stop. After I get to my destination, I turn the car off and the fan slows then will turn off after a few minutes.
 

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18613/P2181/008577 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System
Possible Symptoms
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON
Reduced Heater Output - Cold toes
Incorrect Temperature Gauge Readings
Increased Emissions

Possible Causes
Faulty Coolant Sensor
Faulty Coolant Thermostat
Faulty Wiring, Connections
Note: This fault code sets when engine coolant temperature mapping is lower and out of expected range based on operating conditions of the engine.

For example: Engine warms up, thermostat opens and stays open, coolant temperature drops below normal operating range. The ECM knows the coolant temperature should stay within 80.0...110.0 °C typically after warm up. Thus a drop in coolant temperature below normal operating temperature is not possible without a Malfunction in Cooling System.

Possible Solutions
Check G62 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sender
Inspect wiring for G62 (Coolant Migration, damage, corrosion, etc)
Check (if applicable) G83 - Radiator Outlet, Coolant Temperature Sender
Inspect wiring for G83 (Coolant Migration, damage, corrosion, etc)
Check Coolant Thermostat
Use Graph function in VCDS, Measuring Value Blocks - MVB
Start Engine cold, graph Coolant Temperature Sender (G62) Typically MVB Group-001
Hold RPM around 1,500rpm and watch coolant temp increase in Graph until thermostat opens, indicated by a slight drop in coolant temp
If coolant temp drops below minimum operating temperature (80°C) or never reaches operating temperature, (verified by external thermometer) suspect failed thermostat
Vehicles with both G62-Engine Outlet, Coolant Temperature Sensor and G83-Radiator Outlet, Coolant Temperature Sensor
Use Measuring Value Block group MVB-130 instead on MVB-001
G62 should increase in Temperature before G83 increase when engine coolant is cold
G83 will increase when the thermostat opens and after G62 reaches operating temperature (80°C)
If G62 and G83 both increase while engine warms up, suspect failed thermostat

Special Notes
Check the stored Freeze Frame data with this fault code. Freeze Frame information will be found in the fault code description (if the module supports it) or in Generic OBD-II if the vehicle complies with those regulations.
Freeze Frame data stored at -40*C is generally an indication of a faulty ECT or wiring.
Freeze Frame data stored at +140*C is generally an indication of a faulty ECT or wiring.
Freeze Frame data stored with in the 68*C ~ 80*C range is an indication that the vehicle was close to, but not within, the cooling systems normal operation range. The Thermostat itself or Cooling system components may be at fault.
 

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So the I called the dealer that I got the car from. It is well out of warranty with 136,000 miles (bought it certified used with 60,000). I spoke with the service manager and they quoted a price I can’t beat doing it myself. They are going to also do some other odds and ends at a decent discount.
 
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