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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I just now finally got the time to complete my project of swapping the xenon D1S's and the high beams with LED. As well as the blinkers. I wanted to let everyone else know the process, in case they wanted to do the same.

For the low beam (D1S) I used this 9,000 lumen LED replacements. They use 4 Philips Luxeon LED's per unit.

I was over thinking the install for a bit, that's why at first I just deemed this impossible. Everything is possible with a Treg. I was thinking the best way to do this would be to use the power from the ballast control module. But that's 35w and wouldn't power the led's, and I couldn't find any 35w- which wouldn't have much light output.

At the back of the headlights are the wiring connectors. I knew much about this because my headlight mounts s*it out on me the second week I had the car; while I was changing a xenon bulb. I had to retrofit some makeshift headlight holders aka chicken wire (works very well). Anyway, I found the + and - for the ballast, (yellow purple wire is pos and the brown wire is the negative). This also gives you a chance to reseal all the wires if yours are all cracked like mine. All these wires touching on mine made it blow a fuse when I switched high beam and killed the whole headlight.



I took the driver for the new LED headlight (it's like the LED's ballast) and it fit perfectly out of sight right next to the passenger air box housing. I used a quick splice for the new connection.

As for fitting the new LED in place of the xenon is kinda hard. I had to completely remove the back cover since the LED had a fan and got very hot. While I had the headlight out, I got my jumper battery and powered on the led and twisted it around until I got a good focus of light. It was kind of difficult but once I did I just put some silicon on the led and stuck it in the slot. It was not snug at all so I just held it down with more wire I spun around the unit.

The high beams aren't as hard since the bulb doesn't have a computer. I just tapped into the + and - of the existing configuration.

Fog lights are 10,000 H11's. Easy install, plug and play. But for some reason they would only work on reverse polarity. Weird Chinese.

The flexible led's are connected to the blinkers also, they are normal white DRL when running.

I disassembled my whole headlight because the inside of the units had all cracked wires and were touching and sending all kinds of errors and blown fuses to my panels. I also painted the inside gloss black and the rims gold (because my wheels are metallic gold and.. you know how it goes). The LED's should run much cooler and not get so hot that everything melts and burns. Also the fans keep the inside always nice and cool. When I put my lights back together I put some weatherproof tape over the silicon.

I included a photo of the lights, photo doesn't do much justice at all. The LED's are 6,500k if I remember correctly. I also painted the inside of the headlights while I had them out. Anyone is more than welcome to message me with more questions, this is a detailed process. This took a very long time just because I decided to paint my lights so they had to dry. Don't know of anyone that has done this before so just thought this might be some help. Would've taken more pics if I knew I was going to make a post. :grin2:



 

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Looks great, solid work. Thanks for the write-up!

How would you suppose this works for the HIDs with the shutter system for the high beams?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Looks great, solid work. Thanks for the write-up!

How would you suppose this works for the HIDs with the shutter system for the high beams?
Tested it, just the same. When you activate high beams the shutter opens and you get light for days. (With the six gun salute ;) ). I need to find a level place to park the car and get a good photo of the cut off levels.

Now I'm sure there is some lights out there that have 3 wires. Hi/lo beam, but this works just as well. This just had the normal red and black wire.

Also forgot to note, if anyone wants to "Joey mod" the lights like I did; remember to use high temp paint. I got rid of the xenon which do get very hot. I used engine enamel to be safe, and lots of clear coat.
 

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I upgrade another car (Jeep Grand Cherokee) to LED with VERY GOOD results. Encouraged (and my 2004 T1 driver HID flickering, sometimes going out), I ordered D1S and H11 LED bulbs.
Finally was able to get the headlight out (followed the instructions, but pressing down the holding clip did NOT release the headlight all the way, only after blowing out dirt/grime and spraying some WD into that area and some more force did the trick). Found the H11 bulb, but the 'wire loop holder' does NOT fit over the big LED backside. Nevertheless, I plugged it in to at least test, and held in place by I wood screw. Tested, not working (high beams switched on and tried the 'high beam flash'). Turned the connector around (no lockout for pushing on wrong polarity), nothing.

Gave up on this bulb. Moved to the HID. Got the old bulb out and pulled the connector. Next surprise: that bulb connector does not look like ANY LED bulb. No idea why people are saying the HID in the T1 can be replaced with LED. Obviously, I am missing something. I can only assume I have to get to the HID ballast.

But that still leaves a huge SQUARE HOLE (see photo of HID bulb) to mount whatever LED bulb into. How any bulb supposed to mounted into the square hole?

241437
 

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I want to replace my highbeam halogens with LED, what model of the led bulb did you use?
 
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