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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
Touareg went into limp mode so found the code using the Vagcom and came up with 16619. Vac pipe seems fine (no splits or kinks) so I've ordered a new actuator and N75 solenoid valve. The Valve looks simple enough to replace but how easy is it to replace the actuator in situ? looks a bit of a faff, anyone here got experience of doing it?

thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
bit of an update, I've now replaced the Turbo Actuator but still no luck, Touareg still goes into limp mode. Can anyone please help with this as I've run out of ideas!

Model is an R5 TDI, 2004.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Do you hear anything unusual in the engine compartment? Try giving it some revs with the hood up and listen closely for hisses/whistles/flatulence that might guide you to some sort of a leak. Was it acting unusually before it went into limp mode the first time?
 

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Broaden your audience by posting on the UK site as well [there are more R5 owners there too as the R5 never went to the US].

www.mytreg.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks both for replies, I've not noticed any unusual sounds from the engine bay. But it has developed further, car stalled at lights, alternator warning, ESP, and coil light came on and then took an age to start again. It did eventually but still running rough, it seems very similar to that happened in a previous post I've seen but the guy never said if he resolved the problem...

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f43/engine-stalling-generator-warning-72353.html
 

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16619/P0235/000565 - Ross-Tech Wiki

This can be simple (if very lucky or very obvious like a clearly split hose) or difficult to track down. I've experienced it with our Touareg, as well as another VW TDI. Our T2 is the 3.0L V6, so my experience doesn't completely and directly apply. However, we triggered limp mode at least a half dozen times and each time I scanned the codes and 16619 wasn't always alone. The dealer finally found a very small split in a charge air crossover hose, but they took literally 2 days of trying what "VW central" recommended. They were just about to pull the turbo when they found the hairline split. No problems since this was done about 3-4 yrs ago, fortunately it was still under factory warranty at the time. My point is the solution may not be obvious, it was impossible to hear anything caused by the faulty hose. Some suggest brake loading the engine (if it's an auto) and looking for a connection leak or faulty hose.

All that being said, you may now have more going on than when you started. Good luck.
 

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I had this problem and it was a bad N18 valve. In the past I posted it as a N75 valve as they look the same. It's part of the EGR system and causes a lot of codes to be thrown.
 

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check if your turbo behaves like this. If it doesn't you have the dreaded stuck VGT problem.

 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The turbo was behaving correctly and after further investigation the ECU was swimming in water and badly corroded! Looks like the previous owner wanted it chipped and got some cowboy to do it who didn't make the effort to seal it back up correctly, probably badly mapped it to... Thanks for all the advise guys.
 

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Hi Guys, Salvaging an old thread here, this morning my car went into limp mode and got this fault. This afternoon car drove fine, no issues however i can see a dirt splatter where it looks like a seal has failed on the end of my swirl flap actuator. I'll do some output tests to see the VGT working. I'll also see if i can test/read N75 & N18 valve. Does anyone have a picture of N75 & N18 so i dont have to go hunting? Next is to replace the manifolds as i now replace every plastic part having being plagued by VW plastic rot on my other car. (Mk5 Golf)
Cheers in advance
Laggy
 

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There's no point in replacing random parts until you know exactly which of them has failed (or there's no way to find that out, and you just have to bite the bullet). It would make more sense to narrow down the problem first, and only start replacing parts when you can't actually find out which of them is not working properly.

I personally would first do a test drive and log the turbo boost and air intake values to see whether you really have a boost condition, and how it looks like. Groups 003, 010 and 011 in VCDS should do that, and several 0-60 accelerations with preferably semi-manual shifting would expose the nature of the boost leak, if you have any.

Intake and turbo leaks can also be easily and reliably diagnosed with a smoke tester.

How the N75 looks depends on the actual engine (because N75 is just a logical/functional designation), but if it's a separate unit, then it's generally a small rectangular part with 3 vacuum hoses going into/out from it. Like this: https://www.idparts.com/images/1251_pressureconverter.jpg . Same thing with the N18. However, or more modern engines there are no separate N75 and N18 switch valves anymore, and these are actually built into the appropriate parts (turbo / EGR valve) instead, so, you can only replace them together.
 

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Hi Guys, Salvaging an old thread here, this morning my car went into limp mode and got this fault. This afternoon car drove fine, no issues however i can see a dirt splatter where it looks like a seal has failed on the end of my swirl flap actuator. I'll do some output tests to see the VGT working. I'll also see if i can test/read N75 & N18 valve. Does anyone have a picture of N75 & N18 so i dont have to go hunting? Next is to replace the manifolds as i now replace every plastic part having being plagued by VW plastic rot on my other car. (Mk5 Golf)
Cheers in advance
Laggy



Laggy
If that fault 16619 is what you got and you have a V6 Tdi it will be the vanes sticking in the turbo.
I have one on my bench at the moment that the vanes were near seized solid from combustion crap. ( i have successfully cleaned and freed up all the vanes and reassembled this)

I also jut pulled one apart a member from Sydney (Hi Allen) with only 130k on the clock with the same issue to a lesser extent.


One of these had 300k on it and the other 130k and both turbo center bearings were about the same condition.

Most people just replace the turbo ( a brand new Garrett one can be had for about $1700 vs a brand new VW (again Garrett) for $3800 and none in Australia wow that box must be expensive to make)kaboom

That is for a CASA eng your is most likely the BKS eng which will be slightly different and quite a bit harder to remove than a CASA one.


The Turbo can be pulled apart and the vanes cleaned and put back together for no cost bar the assembly gaskets which you need for a new turbo if you do the labor yourself.


I am a tight arse and will not replace anything if i believe i can repair. I am also married with kids so have no money :laugh:
By the way you will only have an N18 valve to control your EGR valve no N75 will be present.


The manifolds can be really easily repaired to new condition.


I even have an exchange set if you were interested




regards
Drag
 

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Thanks very much Guys,
What boost should the Treg run at? I'll do some data logging then do the output tests to see the vanes move and log the driving performance. ( My old S2 used to run at 27psi so know boost leaks can be a real pain. ). I've downloaded the procedure for the turbo removal from Erwin.
I am interested in your manifolds and will gladly pay you for them, i see new ones are $440 for the pair (Aftermarket). It seems unusual that this fault only came around the same time as this splatter mark over the turbo turbine shield from the swirl flap bore on the end of the intake manifold appeared.
Cheers
Laggy
 

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What boost should the Treg run at?
There's no fixed boost - not on variable geometry turbochargers anyway. The ECU requests boost from the turbo whenever needed and whatever amount is needed to fulfill the driver's request for torque through the accelerator pedal, and then checks whether that boost has been produced, with the help of the MAP sensor. If the difference between the requested and actual boost pressures is consistently larger than a specified threshold, it will throw a boost fault code and fall back to limp mode.

I'll do some data logging then do the output tests to see the vanes move
Even if your vanes are moving the exhaust pathways might be carbonized and blocked, or the turbo could be out of balance, not properly lubricated because of oil burnt on the oil chamber walls, etc. which all could hinder proper charge pressure being created by it.

Also, if it turns out that you've a bad turbo, I suggest you do not try to refurbish that yourself, because it goes a lot more into this than just cleaning it and replacing the seals/gaskets. The turbo usually needs its internal turbine part replaced and the whole unit rebalanced, without which you're just looking forward for more trouble. And a fatal turbo failure can actually total your engine, because of blown parts getting sucked into the cylinders and wreaking havoc there. It's just not worth it. Having a turbo refurbished on an exchange basis at a reputable turbo refurb shop is like $300-$350.
 
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