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2005 V8 (and 2004 for parts)
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16651 - Fuel Injector #3 (N32)
P0267 - 002 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 - - Intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 001 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
17536 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 (Mult)
P1128 - 001 - System too Lean - Intermittent
17538 - Fuel Trim; Bank 2 (Mult)
P1130 - 001 - System too Lean
19711 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1; Heating Circuit
P3255 - 001 - Regulation at Upper Limit - MIL ON
16537 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B2 S1
P0153 - 002 - Response too Slow
 

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I didn't want to go too deep. I bought the whole set up for cam timing adjusters thinking it might have been my problem. I have since heard that, since my VCDS isn't mentioning a timing issue, they should be fine (or at least not skipped timing).

I still have a number of issues on misfiring and system lean and stuff and can't figure it out. I have changed:
  1. fuel filter
  2. coils
  3. plugs
  4. fuel rail
  5. fuel injectors
  6. front cats/flex downpipes
  7. O2 sensors
  8. vacuum leaks
  9. air filters
  10. ERG solenoids
  11. checked compression
  12. about to change my MAFs
The last thing I can think of is the actual wiring or ECU (getting a ground short on cyl 3 fuel injector) since it's almost always cyl 5 but also 1, or 8 or sometimes others... and 5.

Open to suggestions.
Wow that’s a lot of parts. You said you did compression test. Assume all were around 150 and within 10% of each other? Have you checked intake valves for carbon deposits? Is it gets bad enough they can keep valves open just a little to much to get a bad combustion mixture and misfire. It could also cause a lean condition. But if your compression is all good then that might not be it. Mine also had a lean error code. I only ran the engine 10 miles to get it home and have parked it. I’m not messing with anything until I get all the belts and fluids changed. Including tranny, transaxle and diffs fluid.
 

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Wow that’s a lot of parts. You said you did compression test. Assume all were around 150 and within 10% of each other? Have you checked intake valves for carbon deposits? Is it gets bad enough they can keep valves open just a little to much to get a bad combustion mixture and misfire. It could also cause a lean condition. But if your compression is all good then that might not be it. Mine also had a lean error code. I only ran the engine 10 miles to get it home and have parked it. I’m not messing with anything until I get all the belts and fluids changed. Including tranny, transaxle and diffs fluid.
hi everyone, I have a question for anyone who can help. I just inherited a 05 vw Touareg V8 with 150k on it with questionable service history and took it in for a transmission service and the shop did a complimentary inspection and found a bunch of problems including timing chain tensioners rattling, cam plugs leaking, timing belt/water pump replacement, intake manifold flap damage and Im just wondering if I did all of this myself then how do I find out if it's not already too late to save the motor( did it already skip timing?) cel light is on with 17936 16396 17887 16840 faults. please any help is appreciated as I'm a single mom trying to give my teenage son his first car and can't afford the huge shop bill they quoted me. also in Portland Oregon area if anyone is willing to help for discounted price thanks in advance to anyone email [email protected]
 

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2005 V8 (and 2004 for parts)
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Well, even doing the work yourself is expensive. CAD$400 for the belt pump tensioners. The timing chain tensioners are a massively intrusive and intricate job. Need a fractional lb and degree measuring torque ans a ton of patience to get it precisely right. Happy to advise where I can.
 

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hi everyone, I have a question for anyone who can help. I just inherited a 05 vw Touareg V8 with 150k on it with questionable service history and took it in for a transmission service and the shop did a complimentary inspection and found a bunch of problems including timing chain tensioners rattling, cam plugs leaking, timing belt/water pump replacement, intake manifold flap damage and Im just wondering if I did all of this myself then how do I find out if it's not already too late to save the motor( did it already skip timing?) cel light is on with 17936 16396 17887 16840 faults. please any help is appreciated as I'm a single mom trying to give my teenage son his first car and can't afford the huge shop bill they quoted me. also in Portland Oregon area if anyone is willing to help for discounted price thanks in advance to anyone email [email protected]
Well the only easy fix is for the 16840 code. Probably the gas cap. You can get an oring from Amazon for $8. Everything else is really Intrusive. I just bought a 2004, V8 and doing the Timing belt was not hard but many things went wrong like breaking a water pump bolt off and finding a previous one had been broken. If you do the timing belt, with the right camshaft aligment locking bar, pulley and tensioner tools, its a long day for an experienced DIY mechanic. I found that the procedure to set the timing correctly, if followed PRECISELY, was very easy. Also the cam pulleys have to be loosened to ensure timing is perfect, and its easier to get the belt on and off. Honestly, I wouldn't touch the water pump if I were you unless it fails. The risk of breaking a bolt is too high. Once you change the timing belt and the timing is perfect, see if the Cam timing issue is resolved. Hopefully your timing belt didn't fail and cause valve damage. Maybe the cams are just off from the belt slipping or a bad installation of the belt previously. I'll sell you my cam locking bar, tensioning tool and tensioner pin for $50 plus freight. I just paid $100 for it but I'm done with it now.
 

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Well the only easy fix is for the 16840 code. Probably the gas cap. You can get an oring from Amazon for $8. Everything else is really Intrusive. I just bought a 2004, V8 and doing the Timing belt was not hard but many things went wrong like breaking a water pump bolt off and finding a previous one had been broken. If you do the timing belt, with the right camshaft aligment locking bar, pulley and tensioner tools, its a long day for an experienced DIY mechanic. I found that the procedure to set the timing correctly, if followed PRECISELY, was very easy. Also the cam pulleys have to be loosened to ensure timing is perfect, and its easier to get the belt on and off. Honestly, I wouldn't touch the water pump if I were you unless it fails. The risk of breaking a bolt is too high. Once you change the timing belt and the timing is perfect, see if the Cam timing issue is resolved. Hopefully your timing belt didn't fail and cause valve damage. Maybe the cams are just off from the belt slipping or a bad installation of the belt previously. I'll sell you my cam locking bar, tensioning tool and tensioner pin for $50 plus freight. I just paid $100 for it but I'm done with it now.
Hi,
So what area would you be shipping from( zip code ) ? Just want to make sure it's not going to cost so much to ship it that I end up not saving anything. Thank you for the tips and offer I really appreciate any pointers or help I can get. you can email me so it will be easier for us to work out payment and shipping after I check out the shipping cost.
 

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Hi,
So what area would you be shipping from( zip code ) ? Just want to make sure it's not going to cost so much to ship it that I end up not saving anything. Thank you for the tips and offer I really appreciate any pointers or help I can get. you can email me so it will be easier for us to work out payment and shipping after I check out the shipping cost.
I'm in 78248. I'd have to think this is 10lbs or so but I can see what UPS ground would cost to your zip code. What's your zip? Here are the tools you need. The cam aligment lock bar, the tensioner piston pin, the other tensioner tightening tool and the crankshaft locking pin.https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/IMwqf2J8SkaUxfGqDt7leA.QOZQCSNp37GLEjaQzklQnB. I'll never do this project again on this touareg as I doubt it will last another 80K miles so might as well pass the tool on. I also recommend getting the Timing belt procedure printed out. There are some great posts on here on how to do it but I would use the versions that DO NOT require removing a lot of the front bumper to the service position. I did everything with the bumper in place, I just removed the fan and moved some coolant hoses. I replaced all the pulleys and tensioners while I was in there but if you just want to do it as inexpensively as possible I would just replace the timing belt and the belt tensioner piston Tensioner piston, replace the coolant you drained from moving hoses. I think it can cost you less than $1000 with belt, tools, coolant, pulley easy. Maybe under $500. I bought $1,200 worth of parts because I replaced timing and serpentine belts, all the fluids (oil, coolant, front/rear differential, transfer case, transmission), Filter(air, cabin, oil, transmission), l the pulleys and tensioners, the tools above. I could also send you the service procedure I used from VW.
 

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2005 V8 (and 2004 for parts)
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So, fun update... I had to buy a second T-rage. My 2004 threw up the ABS warning and seems the module is hooped - and stupid difficult to configure a new one. So, I bought a 2005 identical to mine and have been working through swapping parts. This one doesn't have all the engine codes but I'll have to redo the timing belt... just ordered and now reviewing my notes on changing it.
 

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Hi,
So what area would you be shipping from( zip code ) ? Just want to make sure it's not going to cost so much to ship it that I end up not saving anything. Thank you for the tips and offer I really appreciate any pointers or help I can get. you can email me so it will be easier for us to work out payment and shipping after I check out the shipping cost.
sorry got busy from work and holidays but ya my zip is 97222 and the service
I'm in 78248. I'd have to think this is 10lbs or so but I can see what UPS ground would cost to your zip code. What's your zip? Here are the tools you need. The cam aligment lock bar, the tensioner piston pin, the other tensioner tightening tool and the crankshaft locking pin.Alberto shared 2 photos with you. I'll never do this project again on this touareg as I doubt it will last another 80K miles so might as well pass the tool on. I also recommend getting the Timing belt procedure printed out. There are some great posts on here on how to do it but I would use the versions that DO NOT require removing a lot of the front bumper to the service position. I did everything with the bumper in place, I just removed the fan and moved some coolant hoses. I replaced all the pulleys and tensioners while I was in there but if you just want to do it as inexpensively as possible I would just replace the timing belt and the belt tensioner piston Tensioner piston, replace the coolant you drained from moving hoses. I think it can cost you less than $1000 with belt, tools, coolant, pulley easy. Maybe under $500. I bought $1,200 worth of parts because I replaced timing and serpentine belts, all the fluids (oil, coolant, front/rear differential, transfer case, transmission), Filter(air, cabin, oil, transmission), l the pulleys and tensioners, the tools above. I could also send you the service procedure I used from VW.
thank you sorry for taking so long to respond got busy with holidays and work but my zip is 97222 and I'm going to pull the valve covers off this weekend and see if I can see anything horrible with the cam tensioners and then go from there so if it's not too horrible looking than I will definitely want that tool kit from you and the service info you offered. I'll post back in next few days if you want to figure out the freight on it for me that would be great. thanks again for your help and happy holidays 😊
 

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AIR OUTRAGE V8 REARLOCK
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This is GOLD! THANK YOU! I'm doing by the 30th on my 2006 V8 with ECStuning kit (I hope)! I will update with pics soon! I am utilizing all the work arounds to NOT have to buy those fancy tools!
 

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2007/8 Touareg tdi, air suspension, etc
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Agreed, all my petrol cars are in the same VAG timing belt family and you get plenty of practice in servicing them. I'd make the comment that while there are lots of how-to's on the web, some are just wrong and no matter what, you just can't learn 20 plus years of a mechanics profession through You-Tube. If you needed brain surgery you surely wouldn't choose the local baker as your go-to.
Buy the tools. Sure, people have fudged their way around them with a lot of luck. The tools make it an easy and accurate task. Compared to the farm machinery of 50 years ago modern cars are like space equipment. No matter if you bought new for a small fortune or got a mechanics throw away for peanuts, each task remains as complicated and sophisticated at either end of the price spectrum.
For mine it is one of the great engines so I do have a soft spot for them and like to see them sympathetically maintained.
 

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AIR OUTRAGE V8 REARLOCK
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I did this in ~8 hours over two days start to finish. I'm a software engineer with an Audi S4 that I've cracked deep into almost a half a dozen times since purchasing it for $1000 so I knew what to expect from the $5000 purchase of this insanely engineered and OUTRAGEous marvel of machinery.

Day One: I had to take a break on day one about an hour in on the first night attempt because I was unsure about the fan and whether or not I needed to remove the front clip or not. I did a lot more research and I discovered a post on this site about removing the fan. That was the information I needed.

Day Two: I had a second set of hands to help lift the fan out and disconnect and move everything out of the way but it slides right out after depressing the two connecting pins on each side. The help to guide the fan out was very welcomed. I did not need to remove the front clip as others have mentioned. Nothing really to it. In the end it was a routine timing job including all the components from the ECS tuning kit. My water pump didn't have gasket seal when I removed it. Not sure if that's standard practice. I just marked the timing and used some vice grips to keep it together. The fan was the most difficult impasse. Also there was mention of a 23mm 12-point socket for the harmonic balancer (crank shaft pulley), but the size on my 2006 was actually 24mm. Put it all back together and it fired right up and runs insanely better than before. No codes. Thermostat opens, the fans engage. I took some photos along the way I'll post soon with some more thoughts. Really just take your time and don't rush it. Clean as you go and stay organized and aware. Read as much as you cn prior to going into it and keep the DIY on this forum handy.

I noticed some sweating along the way so I am considering valve covers and valley pan gasket next. I haven't finished my work though. I'm installing Eurowise winch mount with the apex 12K synthetic rope + control arms and air suspension mount protection hopefully tonight. I mounted the winch and wired it up but I need to cut the bumper and install the fairlead and then jack the car up and hammer out those old control arms I am sure. Will report back in some other threads. Getting ready to RAGE OUT this summer in the OUTRAGE TOUAREG
 

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@diponitial , did you lock the cam sprockets and loosen pulleys tow get belt off or just gorilla the belt on and off? How did you set the cam sprockets to correct time? Did you just rely on the way they were already set?
 

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2007/8 Touareg tdi, air suspension, etc
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Can't quite get my head around not getting the cam lock bar. Cheap as or you can make your own. I have 5 cars that use the same gear and it is well worth a few $ to get it right.
 

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AIR OUTRAGE V8 REARLOCK
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Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Hood
Can't quite get my head around not getting the cam lock bar. Cheap as or you can make your own. I have 5 cars that use the same gear and it is well worth a few $ to get it right.
I just used a couple of vice grips to lock in place and ensured that the intake and exhaust holes were accurate, then marked where everything lined up. After I got the new belt back on everything cinched together really nicely so I gave it two revolutions by hand and everything lined up as it did before. Once I put everything back I fired it up. Best feeling. Ran excellent, seemingly better than before.

I had some work call stuff come up but I’m back at it tonight. Just completed the EuroWise winch install which feels like it’s actually more involved than the full timing job. Lots of customization and decisions that had to be made on the fly!

Lower control arms are next and I’ll be back on the road! Glad the S4 B7 still lifts me away. Pics and videos soon
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire
 

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