Brake light probably means you did not connect the pad wear sensor or maybe disturbed the anti lock sensor.
When installing new pads, you should replace the pad wear sensor. They cost $10.

 

Tx, one more lesson .. 🙂

 

Did you leave the E-brake off when doing the job?

 

Did you leave the E-brake off when doing the job?

I can just changed the front rotors and brake pads

 

Sh!t I could swear I read front and rear.
My bad OP, forget about the E-brake question as it was a mute point.

 

I did left the epb on, on both sides , because I rotated tires from back to front , and wasn't quite level , did not want that renegade to take off ..

but after I changed the right wheel, I did drive around the parking lot a bit , and we were fine .

After the left wheel was done, I saw the Brake light on.

One more mystery 🤔 after I prob. hurt her feelings somehow 🙂 .

 

Oh friend.....
The "pad warning" system is super simple.
Did you change the wear sensors or did you reuse them? Was the warning on before you changed the pads\rotors?

 

Nope, did not change , did not know was that sensitive too. On back wheels and front right , wasn't an issue , so ordered 1, see if that solves it.onoy cane on after left from wheel pads were replaced .

 

I am going to pick up a sensor wire for left wheel soon, and w all honesty , I didn't inspect the sensors properly on the left wheel, just saw that there weren't any kinks on cables , just the usual dust that I cleaned.

Hopefully replacing it fix does it today , will post feedback in a bit .

Something happened , looks like , Because the acute CD ejecting syndrome started to manifest itself again .. just about when the brake light came on.

Since I have good battery , I have no idea how much trauma treg still needs to heal from, and will take her to the a mountain ride latter, and see if that works to try to improve her mood 🙂,

I would be a bit weird for the brake sensor to cause CD ejecting syndrome, but w this lady , looks like everything is possible.

 

I have no idea what you're saying (again) and you're not answering all the questions I'm asking (again
Here's part numbers that I've used if it helps

If you want to figure out which corner is causing you the issue, unplug the sensor and check it for continuity.
If you just want to turn off your MIL, simply complete the circuit at the plug on the vehicle side with something like a paper clip and it will shut it off.

 

Oops, forgot to say that all was good before I changed the pads

I ordered a cable from AutoZone , picking up soon.

 

Replaced from left wire, light goes off when I start car, then comes on. Now investigating the right wheel .

I already had to put off a couple of dates , and said if they would not mind menage a trois in the treg , cuz she loooves to keep me busy 🙂.. might have to move to my treg, and live there anyway 🙄🤣😂

 

You don't listen.... keep doing it your way..... you'll guess right eventually.

 

😂

Another scan ?

Look friend, upon looking into your option, yes, you were 110% correct .. but this is the existing sensor . And I have no idea what the peeps that owned this before did ... Wire is pristine , looks clean like a baby's butt .. 🙄😂🤣..
I need to run a scan, cuz I changed the wire , and red brake light still there ..

In addition, now Everytime I open the door , the CD loop ghost , starts winding over abd over l reminding me of the ol school tape recorders ..

Gawd Almighty ! 😁 These newer cars are a trip ! 🤦I need to buy more alcohol to cope! 🍻

wire

 

That's a nice wire.... what does it show us? Oh... that's right.... NOTHING.
Does it have continuity between the pins at the plug? If YES, that's NOT your issue... you can replace it all day long.

 

Ok , sorry , I see this brake word in red , same that pops up bottom right , when inserting the key , it goes away , when I start engine, comes right back ..after a second or so , I just changed front pads .. car runs fine ,brakes work fine, I don't hear any grinding whatsoever , .. right sensor looks great ,so, I did run a scan to try to understand what is the princess complaining about now ...

I probably used the back door too many times, and was runnign low on battery.. hopefully was that , so I am charging my battery and @SaVAGeSoot is right again (tx) , like almost always 🍻

If that is the case, I will be buying a battery sometimes soon, this is h7 spec, came with car.. and since I don't commute far each day , the car does not have time to recharge, and upon opening the car trunk a few timesw engine off, lowers the battery to the point, that treg sensitive eletronics start to flip out. That is my theory atm. It happened when i got this car, and after I charged it, it worked great for a while, untill I had to work on it again to fix small stuff for final inspection , when I may have opened too many times the trunk without doing a big trip .

 

Does anyone know if when Auto-Hold is activated if it shows the word brake in red like is being described?

 

Yes, my friend, Auto hold started to show too .. that's why I think it's battery related , in my case, based on past behavior , inc a couple low voltage readings on vcds 🙂

And, I was reading earlier on did post that low brake fluid could also trigger the light , so since I had it low w just w 1 line left , I topped it off.. did not want that to be yet another cause for the princess meltdown .. I allways try to attack the solution from all directions , regardless of what the software says.. 😋

Need to buy one of those kits for tiny glass repair w seringe , to fix the outcome pedal on the metal try out . Any recommendations are appreciated .. I never needed such a thing.

 

Dafuq are you still going on about?
If you suspect your battery is crap, once again, look up my battery post, pull the history file, analyze it.
If you don't understand what I just said above, pull the file and post it here and I'll read it for you.
Post your SCAN.
Post pictures of what you're seeing on your cluster.... quit telling stories.
Your ability to correctly and properly describe what you're seeing and experiencing sucks.... we can't help you like that.
Any RED light is bad.... RED means MALFUNCTION..... YELLOW means WARNING..... yellow is ok to temporarily ignore and continue driving etc...... RED is NOT........ FLASHING RED always means SHUT IT DOWN.

Zee Germans have made things quite idiot proof for us.... but we still manage to somehow not get it.

 

Friend,
I have advised you SEVERAL TIMES..... read what I typed and DO IT.

If you suspect your battery is crap, once again, look up my battery post, pull the history file, analyze it.
If you don't understand what I just said above, pull the file and post it here and I'll read it for you.
Post your SCAN.
Post pictures of what you're seeing on your cluster.... quit telling stories.

I've repeated myself, again, made it bold and various colors in case you are color blind and can only see some colors.
Let me know which one of those 3 things you can see but can't do, and I'll attempt to help you do it.

 

Sorry, I said red brake word, I should have said red brake word , left of park , bottom right of instrument cluster .
Germans have a few great things going on, yes. 👍

I dont remember seeing red in battery vcds , just a couple modules , brake, that's why I decided to charge it,

I think the battery bc is h7 spec. Is a bit too weak to handle the trunk door , .. it's nust a theory ,

What I know is , from looking at this intelligent charger , is that first time I used it when I got the car , it took a very long time untill it finished the recovery exercise , I had stopped it at 5,5 hours almost 100% , when it says it should take max 4 hrs.

So my friend, tx fur your input , I think the plot is a bit thicker , I think, unless I am making it thicker than a oatmeal cookie , as usual 🙂

Yesterday , in just over 3 hrs, the recovering process was at the same level , .. so since I have been driving the car , I guess it helped the battery ,
- I had taken it to auto parts store , and they did not see anything wrong w it .

Regardless, if the battery charge is too low , the VCDS software gets all cranky , like it is about to have heart attack ..

And, since I opened the trunk a few times yesterday ( that I lost count ), w car on and car off , I have no idea how many times under normal conditions a Duracell H7 car battery( not AGM ) can open the trunk door, without affecting the tregs spirits. Right?

Point being, if I had not opened the trunk several times , I would agree w you , that I was mia..

I will see if the codes clear now after I install it w charge , and take this to final inspection. & appreciate your wisdom .. but to be fair , I think a good approach would be to drain the battery a bit w the trunk , run a vcds test , then run the engine for a bit , and do another vcds test again , and see if it charges ok ..

What do you advise ? Am I off again?

 

Sorry, I said red brake word, I should have said red brake word , left of park , bottom right of instrument cluster .
Germans have a few great things going on, yes. 👍

I dont remember seeing red in battery vcds , just a couple modules , brake, that's why I decided to charge it,

I think the battery bc is h7 spec. Is a bit too weak to handle the trunk door , .. it's nust a theory ,

What I know is , from looking at this intelligent charger , is that first time I used it when I got the car , it took a very long time untill it finished the recovery exercise , I had stopped it at 5,5 hours almost 100% , when it says it should take max 4 hrs.

So my friend, tx fur your input , I think the plot is a bit thicker , I think, unless I am making it thicker than a oatmeal cookie , as usual 🙂

Yesterday , in just over 3 hrs, the recovering process was at the same level , .. so since I have been driving the car , I guess it helped the battery ,
- I had taken it to auto parts store , and they did not see anything wrong w it .

Regardless, if the battery charge is too low , the VCDS software gets all cranky , like it is about to have heart attack ..

And, since I opened the trunk a few times yesterday ( that I lost count ), w car on and car off , I have no idea how many times under normal conditions a Duracell H7 car battery( not AGM ) can open the trunk door, without affecting the tregs spirits. Right?

Point being, if I had not opened the trunk several times , I would agree w you , that I was mia..

I will see if the codes clear now after I install it w charge , and take this to final inspection. & appreciate your wisdom .. but to be fair , I think a good approach would be to drain the battery a bit w the trunk , run a vcds test , then run the engine for a bit , and do another vcds test again , and see if it charges ok ..

What do you advise ? Am I off again?

Best replacement battery is an AGM. If you shave on your battery, a lot of systems can be affected. (Oddly, I don’t think the brake wear sensor would matter.) 7L trucks use an H8… not sure what size fits 7P models. Good luck.

 

Does anyone know if when Auto-Hold is activated if it shows the word brake in red like is being described?

Yes, my friend, Auto hold started to show too .. that's why I think it's battery related , in my case, based on past behavior , inc a couple low voltage readings on vcds 🙂

And, I was reading earlier on did post that low brake fluid could also trigger the light , so since I had it low w just w 1 line left , I topped it off.. did not want that to be yet another cause for the princess meltdown .. I allways try to attack the solution from all directions , regardless of what the software says.. 😋

Need to buy one of those kits for tiny glass repair w seringe , to fix the outcome pedal on the metal try out . Any recommendations are appreciated .. I never needed such a thing.

Both of these above posts make me feel this issue is related to the electric park brake. I had those same errors came up when I started having issues with mine.

OP how sure are you that you didn't mess with the park brake when doing brakes

 

OP how sure are you that you didn't mess with the park brake when doing brakes

How sure are you that you can read? Or are you hanging out with ^stupid^ now?

I just changed the front rotors and brake pads

 

Or are you hanging out with ^stupid^ now?

@volkswagens-for-life you really shouldn't hang out with him, he's bad news

 

So now your story changes? You did butcher the rear brakes at some point also? And you pulled the battery out to charge it? Like the posts under your hood are missing or something? FFS.... this is next level circus stuff.

 

🙄🤣😂

I didn't ,

I just changed break pads , if you recall , battery levels had also dropped , and did post w error queen post I think , that's why now I was able to recall that the CD loop out of wack looked too weird , to be spooking me without low battery issue , and this is what transpires thus far , in my experience :

The trunk door uses a huge amount of energy , I don't do long commutes , and I have currently a h7 battery , so I remembered the treg princess got her pants on fire when I got her, and had a bunch of errors just because I had a bit of low voltage on battery , that made me waste a lot of time initially,

I had used an intelligent battery charger , and noticed by the car fax report when I bought the treg that this car had been in dealer for a bit , which justifies that first time I ressucitated the battery w Intel charger , it took 5,5 hours, and now it only took about 3,3' hrs , which makes sense since I have been driving the princess .

Dude today at the store was right .. vw electronics are a pita , anyway ..

I have again the red brake letters in instruments cluster,

The problem is that I can't find a way to disconnect this light brake light, using this vcds method , and was raining all day, so could not check back wheel wires properly , but I guess everyone around here knows how crazy VW electronics are .. it ain't a secret ... 🙂

Lessons I have learned :

Never try to troubleshoot anything on VCDS treg without full battery , and in my case, I can't open the trunk more than once during troubleshooting , or it could be a recipe for disaster and countless wasted hours .

Tx friend , for now my problem is solved .. I might end up just deleted these brake sensors altogether l and soldering the wires together latter .. bit overwhelmed w so many sensors w all honesty .. can't find a date the way this is going 😂🤣 , and appreciate you and everyone else ..

 

How sure are you that you can read? Or are you hanging out with ^stupid^ now?

You doubt my methods, padawan? See his reply below.

So now your story changes? You did butcher the rear brakes at some point also? And you pulled the battery out to charge it? Like the posts under your hood are missing or something? FFS.... this is next level circus stuff.

Keep reading..........

We back at square 1,

No time yet to do scan , and this is what happened , upon installing the fully charged battery :

Treg started spilling errors like a dragon.. even though the car. 'battery us fully charge 🙄🤣😂the CD loop ghost came full force , car seemed possessed by a daemon .. even the dreadful big yellow park light came on.. gawd! so, I switch her off , and did the reset key trick I saw :

Turned the key three times quickly .
I had to do this twice to key the full magic though .. but , all warnings went away , and I have now the red brake light again , will do a scan , got 2 sensor cables . Realized that w the epb mageddon on the back , never paid much attention to the sensor cables tbh, when I also replaced the pads..

Today at the store, met this dude who used to work on VW dealer .. he said he knew very well that VW engined were good , electronics pita., 😂

Bottom line : I appreciate you help .

View attachment 263682

And now the truth comes out. I know a thing or two about a thing or two about dragging the whole story out of someone.

 

You doubt my methods, padawan?

Fine... your 'murican is better than mine.

 

people I spoke thus far around here, don't seem too

 

When I pull to buy online on battery , goes often just from h7 to h8 only , but I did not try VW.

 

I just changed out my battery yesterday. Went with a non OEM battery that was an H9 (see link below). The battery that was in there was also a non OEM H9 bought from the same place. It was in there for 6 years and still worked good but I figured I would just do a PM and change it.
The battery, and with the last one, is made by Johnson Controls as per the BEM sticker.

Link >>>>

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

 

I just changed out my battery yesterday. Went with a non OEM battery that was an H9 (see link below). The battery that was in there was also a non OEM H9 bought from the same place. It was in there for 6 years and still worked good but I figured I would just do a PM and change it.
The battery, and with the last one, is made by Johnson Controls as per the BEM sticker.

Link >>>>

http://[URL]https://shop.advanceaut...al#utm_source=et&utm_medium=trans&utm_campaign=confirmation&utm_content=general

[/URL]

I was looking at that yesterday , and O'Reilly's , that in USA is a few bucks cheaper , but guys at advanced are where I get most of my parts , and helpful . They just don't have much for VW without ordering 🙂

I'm telling you I remember seeing that the front and rears were done in the 1st post when I read it, which of course has been edited.

The rear was first , because I was dealing w epb light mageddon .. I never got to do the front .,

Now took to state inspection, & was told to do the front rotors , did front pads too once was at it , to get everything at same level. Surprise , one more xtmas light pops up 😂

-might do like the other dude, and buy a shot gun 😂🤣

 

Lord, please help me!

What color can't you see? White, Blue, Red or Green?

https://www.clubtouareg.com/threads/changed-brakes-instrument-light-came-on.303154/post-2205188

 

Don't have auto hold button friend , but have ghost errors ..

Should I have the auto hold button , or not, on 2014 lux gas 2014? I saw a few references to it online ..

You know , people change consoles sometimes, for whatever reason .. this was a question , not related w brakes, btw ., 🙂