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Other way to buy :)
Right place right time
My recent purchase a month ago.
MY12 air + low + diff locks
161k, one owner, full VW history, uncommon brown interior.
area view camera, memory seats, air conditioned seats, 4 zone air conditioning, great cooper tyres, power tailgate, near unmarked interior, bi- xenon bending headlights, tow-bar used for box trailer only.
No accident history.
Has the std rear oil leak :cautious:

cost $6-8k lower than what i am seeing advertised .

View attachment 235408 View attachment 235409 View attachment 235410
What did you pay for that mate? I'm in the market for a free as well. And what is this standard rear oil leak?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
... I really, really, really wanted the Cayenne S Diesel but again the math just didn't support it verses the Touareg.
Yeah, I flirted with the Cayenne very briefly but, as you say, the math did not come even close, and besides, I can't stand snobbery for any reason and I didn't want to fall foul of my own hubris. If the Cayenne had scored far above the Touareg, then I may have considered some sort of justification but happily that never became an option.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
My wife couldn't understand why I would be on the computer as soon as I got home from work, to update the spreadsheet and see where everything was at.
Yeah, I understand that. Mind you they are the first ones to express pleasure in the standard of the new vehicle when they get to sit in it. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Nice car Dragline. Looks like we have twin Touaregs! (Except mine doesn't have the oil leak).
I know who to hit up for advice if ever I get stuck on something. ;)
 

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Hi All,
Today, I am inspecting a 2012 (MY13) V6TDI with air suspension, low range, driver assistance package, area view, tow bar and panorama sunroof. It has almost 130,000 kilometres on the clock and the dealer is asking almost $29,000.
My question is this; what, if anything, are the things I need to pay particular attention to when inspecting the car?
I had hoped my OBD scan tool would have arrived by now but it's still in transit so I am left a little blind. My focus has been on 2014 models,so I am not as familiar with the 2012 model. I know I need to ensure the sunroof drains are clear, the main seal is not leaking or the rubber swollen. Any assistance or hints would be appreciated.

i just purchased a 2012 certified pre owned with 74800 miles on it ...runs and looks great...had an issue with the egr valve but it was replaced and covered ...i paid $19,000 incuding tax and extended warranty on top of cpo...i recommend getting extended warranty...these vehicles are high performance but also high priced maintenance...
 

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i just purchased a 2012 certified pre owned with 74800 miles on it ...runs and looks great...had an issue with the egr valve but it was replaced and covered ...i paid $19,000 incuding tax and extended warranty on top of cpo...i recommend getting extended warranty...these vehicles are high performance but also high priced maintenance...
That's a really good price
Been looking for a bit trying to find a 4xmotion car among the miss-labeled one's on Carsales and Gumtree
Is a challenge
 

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re buy my Touareg...

...
I did. :)

...
Umm...nope pretty sure you didn’t :unsure:

...There is no doubt that you have one of the most outstanding Touaregs for sale in Australia at the moment, but the price is holding you back.

Just my 2 cents worth.
Oh well, then I’ll continue to own one of the most outstanding Touaregs for sale in Australia. It’s not all bad. :cool:

Think you may have overstated the value there yourself. 😜
 

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Hi Dino,

I did. :)

You car was on the top of my buy list for over 6 weeks, but you weren't willing to be reasonable about the price. I mean no offence by this. Dropping $10 here and $50 there is not going to cut it in this market. The car I have just purchased has everything your's does, plus a VW factory-fitted tow bar and the rear diff lock. Granted, there are 15,000 more Ks on it, but that is less important to me.

I reviewed every single Touareg that came onto the market in Australia over a period of 4-odd months. I spreadsheeted their details and calculated kilometres per year, kilometres until end-of-life (300,000 Ks); I applied a score for features/fruit based on what I consider mandatory, "nice-to-have", "didn't care factor", model year, manufacturer year, stamp duty payable, external colour preferences, upholstery colour preferences, etc. I ran percentage calcs against the vehicles to rate them in order of value for money and cost per kilometre to end-of-life.

I then rang/texted the seller/dealer of those that scored above a certain level and asked questions that allowed me to apply a subjective score for those cars. (As an example, I asked one dealer about the cost to supply, fit, wire, and full coding of a tow bar. His replies brought me to the realisation that he had no clue about the complexity of the task, the specific requirements of VW coding and his price was so ridiculously low that I immediately removed that vehicle from my consideration).

I think you have a very presentable Touareg, and I'm was also comfortable that I would find its condition all that you say it is, but in the final analysis, I did not see the value matching the price. There is no doubt that you have one of the most outstanding Touaregs for sale in Australia at the moment, but the price is holding you back.

Just my 2 cents worth.
Hi Chimesy, would be interested in taking a look at you spreadsheet if you don't mind to share. Am keen to see the format and weightings that you used for the analysis

cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #30
...would be interested in taking a look at you spreadsheet if you don't mind to share.
Hi okkanui,
I deleted it on the week-end!. Sorry.

From memory I had columns for:
Year, Odometer, Price. I then included a column for each of the specific things I needed, and then columns for what I wanted (as opposed to needed). I used a column to calculate the number of kilometres left to end of life (which I set at 300,000), I had a column for location of seller/dealer (I used this to calculate costs of air fares and accommodation to and from). I also had columns for the number of months of registration left, the calculated (guesstimate) of the likely refund when transferred to Qld.

I had a couple of columns that calculated the quoted cost of supply, installation coding, etc of "missing" must-have items. (Tow bar was the most common). Some items could not be installed post-sale. For example, if a car did not have Aaptive Cruise Control (ACC) then post-purchase of the Driver Assistance Package is not easily achieved.
I entered the prospective car into insurance websites to get a quote for comprehensive insurance but soon gave up on this as the differences were negligible.

I gave a score of 2 to my preference in any particular column, 1 for something close, and zero for missing/not available. I also had a column for items that I did NOT want but were included with the vehicle and applied scores of -1 or -2 depending on the "aggravation" factor the specific item would cause.
Eternal and internal colours were also included, again with scores.

I entered a "dream" car with all the tings I wanted and none of the things I didn't want so I knew what the score of my ideal car was.

The scores were totalled and the spreadsheet sorted in the final score order.
That's all I can remember off the top of my head.

My method is not scientific, nor is it statistically sound, but what it did do is produce a usable score card that clarified some issues for me and made my selection a lot easier. I ended up with close on the perfect car.

Cheers.
 

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Wow, that seems like some spreadsheet. I've used a basic sheet with nothing like that sophistication for my choices with all car purchases. If you deleted it, is it perhaps sitting in the Recycle Bin for potential recovery?

Pete.
 

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Hi okkanui,
I deleted it on the week-end!. Sorry.

From memory I had columns for:
Year, Odometer, Price. I then included a column for each of the specific things I needed, and then columns for what I wanted (as opposed to needed). I used a column to calculate the number of kilometres left to end of life (which I set at 300,000), I had a column for location of seller/dealer (I used this to calculate costs of air fares and accommodation to and from). I also had columns for the number of months of registration left, the calculated (guesstimate) of the likely refund when transferred to Qld.

I had a couple of columns that calculated the quoted cost of supply, installation coding, etc of "missing" must-have items. (Tow bar was the most common). Some items could not be installed post-sale. For example, if a car did not have Aaptive Cruise Control (ACC) then post-purchase of the Driver Assistance Package is not easily achieved.
I entered the prospective car into insurance websites to get a quote for comprehensive insurance but soon gave up on this as the differences were negligible.

I gave a score of 2 to my preference in any particular column, 1 for something close, and zero for missing/not available. I also had a column for items that I did NOT want but were included with the vehicle and applied scores of -1 or -2 depending on the "aggravation" factor the specific item would cause.
Eternal and internal colours were also included, again with scores.

I entered a "dream" car with all the tings I wanted and none of the things I didn't want so I knew what the score of my ideal car was.

The scores were totalled and the spreadsheet sorted in the final score order.
That's all I can remember off the top of my head.

My method is not scientific, nor is it statistically sound, but what it did do is produce a usable score card that clarified some issues for me and made my selection a lot easier. I ended up with close on the perfect car.

Cheers.
ah, ok .. thanks for your reply :)
 

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Hi Chimmey, You sound like you have done a heck alot of research, please if I may pick you brains alittle...

1. Would you touch a treg thats done over 200k km?
2. I've now focused on the 2013 models as they offered air suspension and directional bi xenon lights, they seemed much better value then the 1st release?
3. you mentioned that these cars tend to have a little oil leak, is that really that common? do you know what its due to? should we be worried?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
motegi,

1. Would you touch a treg thats done over 200k km?
Yes, depending on the circumstances and the model. IMHO, TDI Touaregs are just about the best car to own for reliability and robustness. If I was looking for a vehicle that I was primarily going to take off-road (IOW, NOT my main vehicle), then almost certainly I would consider >200K km. I tend to own my vehicles for long periods, usually until they are scrap value only. As such, I find that a properly maintain car provides a much better return on investment than swapping my cars every 5 years or so. The MY07 Jetta (with 300k km) I am getting rid of is 14 years old and the drive train is still as close to perfect as you can expect.

TDI Touaregs are good for at least 300k kms and probably many more. I don't believe there is a drive train that is more reliable. I am a big believer in regular, on-time servicing and cutting corners with lubrication is both illogical and taking chances with an ever increasing risk profile.

2. I've now focused on the 2013 models as they offered air suspension and directional bi xenon lights, they seemed much better value then the 1st release?
I agree. The 7P is a much better car than the 7L. Having said that, I would be happy to own a 7L for off-road work, particularly if it has been well maintained.
Anything from 2012 to 2014 was my sweet spot. In a perfect world I would have found my car in a 2014 version rather than 2012, but the differences are minutely incremental, and so far, I am very happy.

Be aware that there are two models with air suspension. Not all air suspension comes with the second rear diff low range option. Both a quite capable off-road, and I consider the air suspension to provide a superior ride on the bitumen to the straight spring suspension models (which I pretty darn good anyway). The air suspension in the 7L had problems with the air bladder housing on the shocks as VW had used two different metals and there was a chemical reaction between the air nipple and housing, causing expensive repairs. The 7P does not have this problem.

3. you mentioned that these cars tend to have a little oil leak, is that really that common? do you know what its due to? should we be worried?
Hmmm, I don't think it was me who said that; I was replying to someone's comment. Oil leaks in any vehicle should be a concern, particularly if it has been there for some time. Apart from wear and tear, oil leaks can be an indication of a number of things, namely:
  • the wrong oil type has been used
  • cheap, poor quality oil has been used
  • oil levels have been allowed to drop so seals begin to dry out, thus shortening their useful life expectancy.
  • servicing intervals have not be maintained to manufacturer's specifications
  • oil filters have not been changed with every oil change.
If the current owner has ignored service intervals then I consider that a red flag too. IOW, what else has been ignored?
Additionally, how did the car pass a road worthy inspection with an oil leak? I would not buy a car with an oil leak, but I would be willing to place a deposit with the condition that I would finalise purchase once the oil leak had been properly dealt with.

My VW-trained mechanic advised me to check for oil leaks between the engine and gearbox, and to inspect the rubber "grommet" there that would be distended/enlarged if there was a looming problem. Make sure you check that out on any car you are considering. The engine has to be dropped for the repair work to be done.
 

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Gents
First post on this forum
Last week purchased a 2012 V6 TDI 4XMotion with 65,453km one owner in Hawthorn (Melbourne) from the local VW dealer with full history. It is a genuine 4Xmotion with low range, locking centre and rear diffs, but it has steel springs. No oil leaks and no cam chain noise. Very happy with the vehicle, but I did pay more than the others on this post.

Question for Dragline - as you have your new vehicle, are you doing another batch of undercover skid plates? I would be very interested.
Cheers Tim
 

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Gents
First post on this forum
Last week purchased a 2012 V6 TDI 4XMotion with 65,453km one owner in Hawthorn (Melbourne) from the local VW dealer with full history. It is a genuine 4Xmotion with low range, locking centre and rear diffs, but it has steel springs. No oil leaks and no cam chain noise. Very happy with the vehicle, but I did pay more than the others on this post.

Question for Dragline - as you have your new vehicle, are you doing another batch of undercover skid plates? I would be very interested.
Cheers Tim
Tim
I have a few blanks left to convert to plates so yes I could.
With steel springs you will need some protection

Regards
Drag
 

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Drag
Thank you for your quick reply - I am going to need a few more posts before I can PM you with my details.
Question - from looking at the photos of your skid plate it appears to cover the sump and transmission but does not extend beyond the cross brace and protect the transfer case?
From having a quick look underneath, the transfer case looks vulnerable, especially as I am limited with 233mm ground clearance (at the moment). Are there any options for the transfer case?
Thanks
Tim
 
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