Club Touareg Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A belated Merry Christmas from England to all you fellow Treggers!!


Yesterday, whilst opening the bonnet on my beast (to top-up the screen wash!)in preparation for my trek back to Cambridgeshire from deepest Wiltshire, the bonnet release lever in the footwell of my treg gave out an ominous 'creak' and went unnaturally slack.
Fortunately it did release the bonnet catch and I was able to make sure that all vital fluids were topped-up and the bonnet shut properly afterwards.

However, the bonnet release lever now hangs rather folornly and does not offer the customary resistance that one would expect from a lever connected to anything meaningful!
In short, my bonnet release lever no longer works - the plastic lever and mechanism inside the footwell seems to be unbroken but it doesnt appear to be connected to a cable - just rotates without pulling on anything. Either the release cable itself has snapped or has somehow become detached.

Does anyone know an 'emergency' or 'alternative' way to gain access under the bonnet until I can effect a repair / get it fixed?

Does anyone know what is likely to have broken, and/or whether this is a reasonably easy fix?

Please PM me if the solution has 'treg bonnet security' sensitive implications!

Many thanks and good wishes!!

Cheers,

John.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
hi
just had the same problem.

is the lever really loose? i.e. does it feel like it is not pulling any cable at all? If so it may be similar to the problem I had which was that the plastic housing that contains the 'ball' end of the cable had broken. i solved this (temporarily) by doing the following:

1. remove the release handle by pulling out the clip at the back of it.

by pulling at the back of the trim and shining a light into the space you should be able to see if you have the problem described above.

if so then:

2. remove the trim under the steering wheel (2 torx head screws)
3. loosen the the door sill trim by levering off the tread insert and removing the 2 torx screws.
4. take off the trim that sits behind the handle. you have to prise off the top part which has a clip, and wiggle the whole thing to get it out from under the door sill trim.
5. this will reveal the mechanism which you can either replace or fix with a cable tie as i did

hope this helps!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hi
just had the same problem.

is the lever really loose? i.e. does it feel like it is not pulling any cable at all? If so it may be similar to the problem I had which was that the plastic housing that contains the 'ball' end of the cable had broken. i solved this (temporarily) by doing the following:

1. remove the release handle by pulling out the clip at the back of it.

by pulling at the back of the trim and shining a light into the space you should be able to see if you have the problem described above.

if so then:

2. remove the trim under the steering wheel (2 torx head screws)
3. loosen the the door sill trim by levering off the tread insert and removing the 2 torx screws.
4. take off the trim that sits behind the handle. you have to prise off the top part which has a clip, and wiggle the whole thing to get it out from under the door sill trim.
5. this will reveal the mechanism which you can either replace or fix with a cable tie as i did

hope this helps!
Hi Jezzad,

That's extremely helpful information - thank you very much!

The handle is indeed just hanging loosely and at the time it 'went' it did indeed feel as if it was a bit of plastic breaking!
A couple of days ago I did get as far as levering off the tread insert and removing the two torx screws on the door sill trim but then was unable to easily remove the plastic sill. I was scared of breaking it!
Does it just unclip vertically?

I'll have another go at it tomorrow and let you know how I get on!

Once again - thanks for your info!

Cheers,

John.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I suggest that before you try to remove any trim you do the check I mentioned - just to make sure you are in the right area! With a bright light you should be able to see if the ball end of the cable is located in the the plastic cradle. If you just need to open the bonnet you should be able to do it from here with some long nosed pliers or a noose of wire or a cable tie around the the ball.

I didn't remove the sill trim, just wedged it up with a screwdriver. If you force it then you will probably snap one or all of the 3 plastic tabs. But, you have screws there too so that wouldn't be a disaster. You may also need to loosen the narrow piece of trim above the one you are interested in. This has one 'pop-in' clip (not sure what tech term is but it won't break when you pull it out) and one tab which will break if forced. Again you should be able to wedge this with something.


The actual trim that you need to take out has one pop-in clip near the top but the thing that makes it tricky is that it has a long tongue (about100mm) which slides under the sill trim. This means you have to get the sill trim high enough to get the tongue out in the direction of the passenger seat then lever the clip out to release the trim.

Maybe I should have taken photos!

Good Luck!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Jezzard,

Thanks for all your help with this problem!

Yesterday I managed to remove all necessary trims (or wedge them out the way!) and access the plastic release mechanism cradle but that was where my fun stopped!

In my case the actual cable has snapped about an inch or so away from the ball-shaped metal end piece and the remaining cable has disappeared up the cable sleeve!
I have managed to tug out enough of the cable sleeve to be able to strip the outer cover / conduit back far enough to get pliers onto the end of the remaining cable and thus pull it to open the bonnet!

Have ordered a replacement back section of the cable mechanism to replace the existing broken wire - it will be fun and games trying to thread the new cable sleeve back through the bulkhead grommet etc!
Hopefully, I will be able to attach the new cable sleeve to the old one and somehow use the existing back section of cable sleeve to pull the new one through - bet it won't be that easy though!
Task for next weekend I think!

Thanks for your help.

Cheers,
John.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
I have a broken hood release cable in the exact same place as did Okete (John). I've removed the hood release operator handle and some panels so that I could access the cable and cut the some of the sheathing away so that i could grasp and pull on the cable proper to open my hood.

I've ordered a new cable, but I do not know how to remove the old cable and install the new cable from under the hood, through the bulkhead/firewall, and into the cabin hood release cable bracket to which the release operator handle attaches.

Any help out there?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Hood Release Cable Removal & Installation

I know this if much past the original request(s) for help, but others may benefit from my comments.

I too snapped off the ball on the cable end that fits into the hood release handle inside the "cab" down by the parking brake pedal. I had to remove the interior trim parts to get at the cable end like has been discussed here previously. I then trimmed back part of the cable plastic and metal sheathing to get at the braided wire cable to which the ball was attached. Using needle nosed pliers, I was able to pull on the braided cable to release the hood latch and open the hood.

From under the hood, one then frees the broken cable from the second cable that runs to the hood latch by opening the cable connector under the hood to free the cable ball from the broken cable connector.

I then securely soldered a six foot length of 20 ga. tie wire to the broken end of the braided cable inside the "cab". Using a long screwdriver, you have to release the broken cable from two clips on the side wall up high above the hood release handle.

Then from under the hood, pull the broken cable out pulling the tie wire with it making sure the tie wire is long enough so that there is sufficient tie wire inside the "cab" after the broken cable is removed. I then cut the tie wire off the braided wire of the broken cable close the solder point. You then have to remove the two old rubber grommets. The front grommet is easy to remove. I removed the second grommet by pushing back into the "cab" using a 12" length of 3/8" (ish) diameter wood dowel.

Now securely wrap the tie wire around the new cable close to the ball end. I used electrical tape to wrap the new cable c/w with the tie wire to hold the ball close to the tie wire to facilitate the pulling of the new cable back into the "cab". I greased both new rubber grommets on the new cable to ease their insertion into their corresponding metal walls.

From inside the "cab" I pulled on the tie wire to thread the new cable end into the "cab". To inset the rubber grommets into their respective holes, I wrapped a length of nylon cord around each grommet slot. I then pulled the string ends through the respective metal walls. Now push the grommets up against their respective metal walls by hand. I secured the rubber grommets into the metal walls by pulling on the nylon cords. See

Using a long screwdriver or similar tool, push the new cable back into the two side wall clips inside the "cab". Complete the job by inserting the new cable end inside the "cab" into the part that holds the cable end ball and the hood release cable. Replace the trim parts and hood release handle in the reverse order that they were removed.

I hope this helps others.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Hood Release Cable Removal & Installation

I know this if much past the original request(s) for help, but others may benefit from my comments.

I too snapped off the ball on the cable end that fits into the hood release handle inside the "cab" down by the parking brake pedal. I had to remove the interior trim parts to get at the cable end like has been discussed here previously. I then trimmed back part of the cable plastic and metal sheathing to get at the braided wire cable to which the ball was attached. Using needle nosed pliers, I was able to pull on the braided cable to release the hood latch and open the hood.

From under the hood, one then frees the broken cable from the second cable that runs to the hood latch by opening the cable connector under the hood to free the cable ball from the broken cable connector.

I then securely soldered a six foot length of 20 ga. tie wire to the broken end of the braided cable inside the "cab". Using a long screwdriver, you have to release the broken cable from two clips on the side wall up high above the hood release handle.

Then from under the hood, pull the broken cable out pulling the tie wire with it making sure the tie wire is long enough so that there is sufficient tie wire inside the "cab" after the broken cable is removed. I then cut the tie wire off the braided wire of the broken cable close the solder point. You then have to remove the two old rubber grommets. The front grommet is easy to remove. I removed the second grommet by pushing back into the "cab" using a 12" length of 3/8" (ish) diameter wood dowel.

Now securely wrap the tie wire around the new cable close to the ball end. I used electrical tape to wrap the new cable c/w with the tie wire to hold the ball close to the tie wire to facilitate the pulling of the new cable back into the "cab". I greased both new rubber grommets on the new cable to ease their insertion into their corresponding metal walls.

From inside the "cab" I pulled on the tie wire to thread the new cable end into the "cab". To inset the rubber grommets into their respective holes, I wrapped a length of nylon cord around each grommet slot. I then pulled the string ends through the respective metal walls. Now push the grommets up against their respective metal walls by hand. I secured the rubber grommets into the metal walls by pulling on the nylon cords. See

Using a long screwdriver or similar tool, push the new cable back into the two side wall clips inside the "cab". Complete the job by inserting the new cable end inside the "cab" into the part that holds the cable end ball and the hood release cable. Replace the trim parts and hood release handle in the reverse order that they were removed.

I hope this helps others.
Thanks for posting such a detailed description. The release handle just gave out on our 2016 Touareg. Fortunately, the hood opened and I was able to top up fluids. I'll try in the next few days to see if I can resolve with the help of you instructions.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top