Remove and sand the front rotors to remove pad build-up...common cause. Clean hub/rotor surfaces of any corrosion. Check that calipers move freely. Chances are, problem solved. If not and rotors are warped, I'd put in new rotors.
Brake rotors - okay to resurface?
My '16 TDI has annoying brake throbbing. I would rather not replace the rotors unless necessary. Otherwise the car is a gem except for the remapped transmission which is now much less user-friendly than the '12 that we had.
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No. German rotors cannot be turned like old American cars can. They're built to tight tolerances. Pads and rotors will wear linearly.
Directly from Zimmermann -"Failure to observe the brake-in process as well as a non-observance of the run-in phase will cause the formation of uncontrollable and uneven deposits of friction material on the braking surfaces which will result in a partial thermal over stressing of the braking surface. The irregular deposits, which protrude from the surface of the disc will be warmer than the surrounding cast iron. During each contact (once per revolution) of the brake pad with the leading edge of a deposit will increase the temperature at this point. At a temperature between 650° C and 700° C, the cast iron under such a deposit will transition to cementite, and deposits of very hard iron carbide (Fe3C) will form in the crystal lattice of the cast iron. Under very high mechanical and thus thermal loading of the brake, this process is facilitated even more - causing an escalation effect. With an increasing temperature, the cementite will build up and simultaneously penetrate deeper into the brake disc material. Ultimately this process will lead to the above described symptoms, such as rubbing, beating, or pulsation of the brake. This can only be remedied through an exchange of the brake discs and brake pads. "
So, a big negative on re-surfacing brake rotors once shimmy set in. That is if shimmy is caused by the brake system, not as a result of worn-out suspension and/or steering.
So, a big negative on re-surfacing brake rotors once shimmy set in. That is if shimmy is caused by the brake system, not as a result of worn-out suspension and/or steering.
First measure to make sure there is material to be removed.... then consider the rest....
I suspect the comments from Zimmerman are not specific to our vehicles since "650-700c" seems awfully hot to occur on the road. I'm not questioning the science involved but whether rotor temps like that actually happen off track.
^^^^^ you clearly haven't seen clowns driving around with seized calipers...... their rotors glow like F1 cars and grease seeps out of their hubs! 
Now that's something I'd like to see....
Clowns in F1 cars...
Okay my mind is wondering.... please go on...
Clowns in F1 cars...
Okay my mind is wondering.... please go on...
My 16 has a shimmy in the brake too. I’m just living with it, it only happens under heavier braking and hasn’t progressed in the 20K miles I’ve had it. I’ll run them as is until I hear to the wear sensor then I’ll replace
It’s probably something to do with the brakes rusting over from sitting on the lot in Michigan for 2+ years before being released for sale
that was Transformers 2 IIRC^^^^^ you clearly haven't seen clowns driving around with seized calipers...... their rotors glow like F1 cars and grease seeps out of their hubs!
Two things I'll never do as a licensed mechanic.
1) Turn rotors no matter how much metal is on them. It's false economy and localized heat spots can still effect braking performance even when you take layers off
2) Put new pads on old rotors. Rotors and pads don't wear evenly in many cases. So one side of the rotor may have less thickness that the other side but can still measure within spec.
I get asked #2 alot and the answer to the potential customers is no. Safety reasons is my answer. No licensed mechanic worth his salt will do it.
But as we all know then there's the ones that don't care and take the money.
Mine also has large vibration, it was also caused by rust when I originally bought it.
I have a full set all round ready to put on shortly.
1) Turn rotors no matter how much metal is on them. It's false economy and localized heat spots can still effect braking performance even when you take layers off
2) Put new pads on old rotors. Rotors and pads don't wear evenly in many cases. So one side of the rotor may have less thickness that the other side but can still measure within spec.
I get asked #2 alot and the answer to the potential customers is no. Safety reasons is my answer. No licensed mechanic worth his salt will do it.
But as we all know then there's the ones that don't care and take the money.
Mine also has large vibration, it was also caused by rust when I originally bought it.
I have a full set all round ready to put on shortly.
For the record, my Touareg, which is absolutely mint at all times, was sitting so long between dealer appointments for emissions crap, also developed severe steer wheel shake due to rust and deposit accumulation. Only fix was new brakes. Because the dealer had it sitting so long. $2,200 in brakes. Because of the dealer. Still try to wrap my head around that.
The only used vehicle I've bought where I didn't change rotors and pads immediately was my 996 Porsche and that was only because the seller was as anal as I am and had just changed them. As long as they don't catch fire the only things you need to survive driving are brakes, tires and steering. compromise on these is folly.
Thanks to everyone for suggestions and comments. So the first thing I need to determine is whether there is build up on the discs.
If the brakes are pulsing/throbbing they're likely trashed. Could be inferior, non-OEM components or could be from sitting on the 'fix lot' for several years, unused.
I don't understand! Rotors are not that expensive. In fact I think the pads are more expensive. Why bother.... Pulsing pedal most likely warped discs! Change them, peace of mind, new brakes that will last a long (ish) time and there is no conjecture on scoring pads, wrong RMS of friction from skimming, wrongly adjusted cutters on the skimmer, blah, blah, blah. You have a good vehicle with outstanding brakes. Why skimp or prolong the issue
If you keep driving on pulsing brakes, there will be increased wear and tear on suspension parts, generally , and I say generally, as there are so many factors that come into play...!
If you keep driving on pulsing brakes, there will be increased wear and tear on suspension parts, generally , and I say generally, as there are so many factors that come into play...!
It's one of those North American things that refuses to die, like 3k oil changes. Don't try understand it. There's alot of junk vehicles on the road, often poorly maintained. Old guys do it the most to try save a couple of cents. In reality it is not the smartest because your going to have to pay twice because you'll have to change the rotors sooner because you took material off.I don't understand! Rotors are not that expensive. In fact I think the pads are more expensive. Why bother.... Pulsing pedal most likely warped discs! Change them, peace of mind, new brakes that will last a long (ish) time and there is no conjecture on scoring pads, wrong RMS of friction from skimming, wrongly adjusted cutters on the skimmer, blah, blah, blah. You have a good vehicle with outstanding brakes. Why skimp or prolong the issue
If you keep driving on pulsing brakes, there will be increased wear and tear on suspension parts, generally , and I say generally, as there are so many factors that come into play...!
In Europe as we know if your vehicle doesn't look maintained chances are cops are going to check if it's roadworthy. If it doesn't pass, it's taken off the road until it's fixed.
Don't you worry.... I've had my beaters yanked off the road on this side of the pond too......If it doesn't pass, it's taken off the road until it's fixed.
(I miss having a beater...... )
And that's how jellyfish are formed....Don't you worry.... I've had my beaters yanked off the road on this side of the pond too......
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