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Hello,
Have had the warning light come on for the brake pad wear indicator on my 2012 FSI reg, does anyone know how far you can before replacing the pads once the light has come on. I understand it all depends on braking habits just would like a rough idea. Thanks everyone 馃嵒
 

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Just replace them (or have them replaced) asap. Not meaning you've to rush into the dealership tomorrow morning in panic - but have them replaced literally as soon as you can do that conveniently. Don't try to put if off for more than a few hundred miles under any circumstances. If there's something you don't want to err on the wrong side of is the ability to stop a truck with a weight of over 2 tons.

Your question is impossible to answer anyway, because the wear rate depends heavily on variable factors, and not only on driving habits, but also on brake pad and disc material, driving conditions, and even on the state of the tires or the roads you're driving on. And also because there might be slight differences in between brake pad and brake sensor dimensions/positions, and a single millimeter can make all the difference between a brake pad that can still work fully as intended or only provide a heavily reduced braking capability.
 

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I always heard that you had 1000 miles when the brake warning came on. No idea if that applies universally. I would just take a flashlight and look at the pad thickness myself. At any rate, they are pretty worn, so time to start planning on replacing them.
 

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Good practice suggests you replace all four corners at the same time.

Bank balance practice says go to your brake shop (dealers can be way more expensive) and find out whether it's front or rear pads that have set off the light and get measurements of the remaining pad depths AND rotor/disc thickness on both axles.

Some people can get two sets of pads to one set of rotors/discs but that's only possible if the latter are still serviceable and will remain so.

With the measurements to hand you can make an informed decision on new pads only, new pads and rotors/discs on one axle, or new all round.

  • Unless you live in the mountains, drive like you stole it and tow something heavy then you have a couple of thousand miles in hand as the light is intended as an upfront warning so you have time to sort the job out.
The wear light is usually irritating enough to make owners do something reasonably soon though!
 

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I left mine glowing for a couple months. I probably put somewhere between 1K and 2K miles on them. When I changed them out this weekend I had about a cardboard's thickness of pad left.
 

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I left mine glowing for a couple months. I probably put somewhere between 1K and 2K miles on them. When I changed them out this weekend I had about a cardboard's thickness of pad left.
If you'd have gone another 1K miles, you'd likely still would have essentially the same thickness left, because you likely were already not running on the actual pad material, but on the tips of the steel "claws" that are holding them in place, and the actual braking was done by the other pads. See this video here around 8:30!
 

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If you'd have gone another 1K miles, you'd likely still would have essentially the same thickness left, because you likely were already not running on the actual pad material, but on the tips of the steel "claws" that are holding them in place, and the actual braking was done by the other pads. See this video here around 8:30!
I thought all modern friction material was bonded to the backing plates without any mechanical assistance??

TonyB
 

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OP: call me for a full discussion of this topic? With OE materials, as built, there鈥檚 as much as ten percent of the total mileage reached on those existing parts till the brakes will start being insufficient. This can extend for awhile further, but not recommended. I sell a superior replacement parts kit to return the truck to its as new functionality. Sensors are designed to come on at 2.5mm remaining depth. New front is 11mm. Rear is 9.5mm new.

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I thought all modern friction material was bonded to the backing plates without any mechanical assistance??

TonyB
mechanical attachment means such as the NRS (NuCap Retention System) are highly popular on performance pads. This is a scarified plate surface to provided hundreds of tiny attachment points for sheer resistance. A chemical binding won鈥檛 be as effective, hence this design evolved. You can find out more on NRS at the NuCap website, a Canadian Company
 

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I just got quoted 115 for each rotor(they do not pulse at all though) 121 bucks for pads and 140 bucks for labor at a VW dealer sensors and all came to 590 bucks all VW parts I was told. I guess there are 2 sensors on rears 4 on fronts. Does the rear job sound fair?
 

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I just got quoted 115 for each rotor(they do not pulse at all though) 121 bucks for pads and 140 bucks for labor at a VW dealer sensors and all came to 590 bucks all VW parts I was told. I guess there are 2 sensors on rears 4 on fronts. Does the rear job sound fair?
If the above is all Genuine VW OEM parts that is a Great Deal !
Just parts from VWPartsVortex.com is $790 for my 11 VR6 Lux, not sure what you have but should be close in $$$
Front Pads - $132.37
Front Rotors - 99.38 each
Front Wear sensors - $64.40 each
Rear Rotors - 86.68 each
Rear pads - $98.41 each
Rear Wear Sensor - $29.21 each
Plus Hardware F&B
 

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You can save yourself quite a bit by buying non OEM Wear Sensors, seeing all they do is provide a wire to be cut by the lip of the rotor.
Another way to cut costs is to carefully remove and reuse the wear sensors that have not been cut through, generally there will only be one wire cut and the rest could be usable.
No use throwing good dollars where it's not necessary.
It is doable as I have done this on a number of occasions.

TonyB
 

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^^After 50,000 miles, that little piece of severely heat cycled, brake dust encrusted, and now brittle plastic does not really want to just pop out of there in one piece. It takes dedication to get them out.

Talk about a obscene VW markup. The wear sensors are crazy high.
 

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They're $10-15 dollars per corner at aftermarket sites like idparts.

If you aren't going to do it yourself, it doesn't matter how much they should be or what the aftermarket prices are because the dealership won't do it any other way than by the book (using their own parts).

If you're going to bother re-using a sensor might as well just not use one at all or use one per "axle" or any other mickey-mouse solution to save $20-40 bucks on a $750+ job. Even with sensors I still visually check my pads at every tire rotation.
 
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