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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone! This is my first time posting here so bare with me if there are any mistakes. I recently was able to restore full function to the blower motor in our 2012 Touareg TDI without having to fully replace the whole assembly. Here is a good overview of what I did and some useful tips.

In my research prior to taking anything apart many people were claiming the resistor was an integrated part and could not be replaced or serviced. This is SO far from the truth! The assembly is actually VERY serviceable.

I had two faults via VCDS in Address 08: Auto HVAC (J255) :
0251 - Air Blower
B10BE 12 [008] - Short to Plus
0243 - Function Restriction due to Faults in Other Modules
U1113 00 [008]

If you have the same fault and symptoms, then the following method will be your cheapest repair option. In terms of symptoms, our Touareg could no longer exceed the third speed setting. You could set it higher but there would be no gain in speed. The ability for the fan to function at all also became intermittent. I confirmed all of those symptoms visually once the fan was removed from his housing under the passenger dash.

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Removal is fairly simple and you don't need very many tools, if you're familiar with replacing the cabin air filter in your vehicle you're already half way there.

Step One - You will need a T15 Torx bit, this to remove three screws that secure the lower dash panel. There is also a vent duct that you can remove by hand, just undo the clip and slide it off of the other duct near the center dash. Be mindful of electrical connections, there is a light and a temperature sensor that you must disconnect, very simple just press the clips and pull.

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Step Two - Actually removing the blower motor. You're going to need some very small socket sizes, I'm not sure what size exactly. I believe I used a 5/32 inch socket, the correct socket is probably supposed to be metric. Likely a 4mm, I tried 5 and 6mm, both were too big. You're also absolutely going to need an extension for your racket, any kind of longer reach driver will also work. You may also find that you need a swivel for at least one of the bolts. None of these bolts were very tight, the only complex part is arranging you're body to fit in a way to access everything. I also recommend a flashlight, it will make you're life easier, promise. There's 6 bolts total, only two are actually holding the blower motor up, save those for last, you'll see them up the highest. The lower bolts are holding a cover that seals up the housing, two on each of the outer sides. There is some thick cabling that may obscure your view, you can safely move it around a bit to see what you're doing. Experiment with different viewing angles as needed, the bolts are shiny while most everything under there is black, that's part of how a flashlight helps. To recap, remove the blower cover (4 bolts), then the motor (two bolts). The motor may try to drop down, the electrical connection has some length to it so you can let it all the way down without pulling on anything, nevertheless don't let it just plummet.

Step Three - Repairing the blower motor assembly. I believe these are motors with brushes, if yours is anything like ours it'll be covered in black dust from the graphite used for the brushes. I didn't disassemble the motor area itself, but it is also likely serviceable in the event that you need to replace your brushes in the future. There are a number of clips at the top of the housing, gently pry up on these going around in the perimeter. You may have to wiggle the top a bit but it should come off fairly easily. Once that is done you can see inside, the section that contains the electrical connection for the unit is the resistor, it also the module with the heat sink on it. Disconnect the red and black wires noting where they were positioned to, a small flat-head screw driver or pair of needle-nose plyers are handy for this. Now pry on the clips holding the module in place, it should lift out of the rest of the unit. Success you have removed the resistor module! Reinstallation is the reverse of removal.
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I believe that it is also possible to repair the resistor module itself instead of replacing it, however I have not attempted this yet. I suspect that the culprit is a cold solder as nothing was burnt or damaged visibly. There was not even an electrical smell, which is usually very noticeable if something has shorted.

Part # Bosch F 011 500 082 - More numbers in pictures.
I did not turn up any OEM Bosch replacements, however I believe that the modules coming from China are all Continental (VDO) brand. Take that information as you will, I harvested my module from a new blower assembly that I bought, it was sold as VDO but upon receipt said Continental. Maybe needless to say but I was not pleased with receiving Chinese parts when I expected German. Time will tell how it holds up, however its construction appears near identical to that of the Bosch unit. It appears that Jeep/Chrysler uses the same resistor module, perhaps also the whole fan unit.

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Good luck! I hope this is helpful to someone and if I ever try repairing my OE Bosch module I'll post an update. Thank you!

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