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Something like thise with a bonus: wireless display. Only concern is putting this stuff under the seat might end up in a disaster if things go wrong ! What do you guys think?
I'm adding a killswitch on the negative pole of the battery too. The switch will be easily accessible, just under my feet, near the battery.



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Discussion Starter #3
Found a better safer idea: place a shunt on the battery and wire a remote ammeter on the dash or in the glovebox. This will reduce the risk of a circuit board frying under the seat while on the road

I will get a professional grade accurate shunt and a digital display voltmeter.

Suggestion are welcome:



 

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Discussion Starter #4
Question now is how much amps does the Treg push to crank? I'm talking peak current on start.
I guess around 200-250 amps. I think getting a 300a shunt would be enough. 500a would be overkill.


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Viewing the instantaneous current isn't really going to tell you much. It will be all over the place.

Keep in mind that there is current being supplied by the battery but also current coming in from the alternator or charger. In the end, it's the battery voltage that matters.

If you do go ahead with the shunt idea you should use a center zero panel meter to be able to see both current out and current in. Also make sure that you put a small fuse (~500 mA) in both leads to the panel meter and keep them as close as possible to the shunt. Otherwise you could end up with the disaster that you are trying to avoid.

If you are really interested in measuring this current a DC clamp meter would be a much safer option.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Viewing the instantaneous current isn't really going to tell you much. It will be all over the place.

Keep in mind that there is current being supplied by the battery but also current coming in from the alternator or charger. In the end, it's the battery voltage that matters.
Yep. I'm aware of that. I'm only interested in the info while the car is not running. Like for troubleshooting current leaks, knowing that the car is not eating up the battery because some component is acting up strange, some kind of preventive maintenance and monitoring.

If you do go ahead with the shunt idea you should use a center zero panel meter to be able to see both current out and current in. Also make sure that you put a small fuse (~500 mA) in both leads to the panel meter and keep them as close as possible to the shunt. Otherwise you could end up with the disaster that you are trying to avoid.
Thanks for the tip but I always add fuses to my car wiring stuff.

If you are really interested in measuring this current a DC clamp meter would be a much safer option.
And yes I have the clamp meter I'm planning to use just to get the max amperage I need for the shunt.
And I want a permanent solution installed and visible.
When I want to check the battery I just disconnect the charger.
And I will be monitoring the battery state with the charger in the garage using a wifi camera.
I have a xiaomi mi home setup with the cteck charger connected to the xiaomi plug so if I see the charger is acting up or the battery being mistreated I can disconnect the charger remotely by disconnecting the xiaomi plug.

I don't use the Treg much.
 

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I had 2 years of nightmarish electrical problems with my 2005 V8, seemed like a constant drain all the time, wouldn't start after 4 days parked, wouldn't start in the cold etc.
Turned out to be a bad battery. I replaced it with an Interstate MTX-49 H8 900cca AGM battery, and all of my electrical issues vanished, I'm still not used to it.
This was after my mechanic, a VW dealer and an auto parts store all tested it and said it was OK.
Interstate tested it today and it was bad, and they gave me $190 back on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Good to know.
When I bought the treg i ditched tbh old battery and got a brand new agm varta. It'a on a cteck charger all the time.
Back to the am/voltmeter: i finally ordered this one from aliexpress. 500A max.

http://s.aliexpress.com/jqIveMRv

I will connect the shunt to the negative post in front of the driver's seat (LHD) and wire it somewhere on the dash maybe. There will be no electronic boards or component near the battery, just the shunt. This will be used to make sure the treg components are behaving nicely and not drwaing too much juice when the beast is spleeping in the garage.


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