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Discussion Starter #2
Something like thise with a bonus: wireless display. Only concern is putting this stuff under the seat might end up in a disaster if things go wrong ! What do you guys think?
I'm adding a killswitch on the negative pole of the battery too. The switch will be easily accessible, just under my feet, near the battery.



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Discussion Starter #3
Found a better safer idea: place a shunt on the battery and wire a remote ammeter on the dash or in the glovebox. This will reduce the risk of a circuit board frying under the seat while on the road

I will get a professional grade accurate shunt and a digital display voltmeter.

Suggestion are welcome:



 

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Discussion Starter #4
Question now is how much amps does the Treg push to crank? I'm talking peak current on start.
I guess around 200-250 amps. I think getting a 300a shunt would be enough. 500a would be overkill.


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Viewing the instantaneous current isn't really going to tell you much. It will be all over the place.

Keep in mind that there is current being supplied by the battery but also current coming in from the alternator or charger. In the end, it's the battery voltage that matters.

If you do go ahead with the shunt idea you should use a center zero panel meter to be able to see both current out and current in. Also make sure that you put a small fuse (~500 mA) in both leads to the panel meter and keep them as close as possible to the shunt. Otherwise you could end up with the disaster that you are trying to avoid.

If you are really interested in measuring this current a DC clamp meter would be a much safer option.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Viewing the instantaneous current isn't really going to tell you much. It will be all over the place.

Keep in mind that there is current being supplied by the battery but also current coming in from the alternator or charger. In the end, it's the battery voltage that matters.
Yep. I'm aware of that. I'm only interested in the info while the car is not running. Like for troubleshooting current leaks, knowing that the car is not eating up the battery because some component is acting up strange, some kind of preventive maintenance and monitoring.

If you do go ahead with the shunt idea you should use a center zero panel meter to be able to see both current out and current in. Also make sure that you put a small fuse (~500 mA) in both leads to the panel meter and keep them as close as possible to the shunt. Otherwise you could end up with the disaster that you are trying to avoid.
Thanks for the tip but I always add fuses to my car wiring stuff.

If you are really interested in measuring this current a DC clamp meter would be a much safer option.
And yes I have the clamp meter I'm planning to use just to get the max amperage I need for the shunt.
And I want a permanent solution installed and visible.
When I want to check the battery I just disconnect the charger.
And I will be monitoring the battery state with the charger in the garage using a wifi camera.
I have a xiaomi mi home setup with the cteck charger connected to the xiaomi plug so if I see the charger is acting up or the battery being mistreated I can disconnect the charger remotely by disconnecting the xiaomi plug.

I don't use the Treg much.
 

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I had 2 years of nightmarish electrical problems with my 2005 V8, seemed like a constant drain all the time, wouldn't start after 4 days parked, wouldn't start in the cold etc.
Turned out to be a bad battery. I replaced it with an Interstate MTX-49 H8 900cca AGM battery, and all of my electrical issues vanished, I'm still not used to it.
This was after my mechanic, a VW dealer and an auto parts store all tested it and said it was OK.
Interstate tested it today and it was bad, and they gave me $190 back on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Good to know.
When I bought the treg i ditched tbh old battery and got a brand new agm varta. It'a on a cteck charger all the time.
Back to the am/voltmeter: i finally ordered this one from aliexpress. 500A max.

http://s.aliexpress.com/jqIveMRv

I will connect the shunt to the negative post in front of the driver's seat (LHD) and wire it somewhere on the dash maybe. There will be no electronic boards or component near the battery, just the shunt. This will be used to make sure the treg components are behaving nicely and not drwaing too much juice when the beast is spleeping in the garage.


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Discussion Starter #10
Ok so today I ordered another battey voltmeter/ammeter. 300amp.
I never got to installing the old one as it didn't inspire much confidence.


My plan is to use it to monitor battery and to to cut it off when voltage reaches a critical level.
The device will need a 300a relay to use the under voltage protection feature.
Will update when I decide what to buy.

Here is some reviews of this device:


 

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Nice ... keep us posted :)
I'm interested in knowing how much current it draws, since in my opinion it should allways be powered ...
Is it necessary to use the cut off? Treg already has some protection of it's own ...
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I want the battery to be disconnected of it reaches let’s say 11.9 volts. For this you need a relay 300a after the monitor (ground/chassis side). When voltage is low the monitor switches the relay to cut off battery drain.
I asked the seller/manufacturer about power consumption of the device. If it’s too important then it’s a show stopper.

The relay can also be used as a battery cut-off switch when needed. You add a switch to the circuit so that you can cut off the juice to the Treg both when voltage is down and on-demand. Starship Enterprise :alien:

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I want the battery to be disconnected of it reaches let’s say 11.9 volts. For this you need a relay 300a after the monitor (ground/chassis side). When voltage is low the monitor switches the relay to cut off battery drain.
I understand the theory behind this, but than you loose memory, clock, window settings, ...
I would prefer to quickly check the monitor every day ...
Offcourse: in my case Treg is my every day car.
I asked the seller/manufacturer about power consumption of the device. If it’s too important then it’s a show stopper.
Nice: please let me know :love:
The relay can also be used as a battery cut-off switch when needed. You add a switch to the circuit so that you can cut off the juice to the Treg both when voltage is down and on-demand. Starship Enterprise :alien:
Indeed
241135
 

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When installing the shunt (which doesn't seem to be very straight forward with the Juntek model: just take 1 jumping cable en connect 1 side to the negative battery cable and 1 side to the earth point under the hood before disconnecting negative battery cable from battery: this way you won't loose clocks, ...
 

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Even more reliable :ROFLMAO::
241136
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Tes I have a thread for that too



Updated that thread to reference this one.
I don’t care much about losing clock and any setting. I use the Treg occasionally. I just want to be able to troubleshoot it quickly.


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Tes I have a thread for that too

Why am i not surprised LOL
Updated that thread to reference this one.
I don’t care much about losing clock and any setting. I use the Treg occasionally. I just want to be able to troubleshoot it quickly
I'll read
I used a kill switch on my late Chrysler Voyager in periods of electrical problems and i found it to be very effective
In Treg i'm a little anxious about it taking into account adaptations, ...
I don't really know wat exactly is lost when complete power off: not only about original equipment, but also about the LPG installation ...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I also don’t like cutting power off to the Treg. I even think it caused issues with my ccm which I had to replace. Well now it has the latest ccm version. Of course the system is designed to bear with battery disconnection but I wouldn’t play too much with that kill switch. I haven’t noticed any other issues though. I will do it only if I have a drain i can’t fix. Last time I had a drain I think my cluster lights remained on for some reason and killed the battery overnight.


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