[mtnrat]

First post. came over from the Cayenne forums looking for valve body info. Just switched my very hard shifting under load valve body with one from revmax. The transmission is now working perfectly. I have put about 800 miles on it, and all is great. A pretty easy DIY. BTW mine is an 06 Cayenne Turbo S with 48,000 miles.

 

[noobytoogy]

Good first post. Welcome - regardless of your car's badge!

 

[mtnrat]

Thanks, with the amount of overlap there is, we are all in this together.

 

[noobytoogy]

Indeed we are!

 

[dihmels]

I have an 04 V8 that experienced the 1 to 2 slam and occasional 5 to 4 bump. I had the VB replaced with new at the VW dealership a couple of years back. After the change I drove daily for a couple of months without issue and then one day, it hung up in 1st and then slammed into 2nd. Now it has been parked for a couple of years but I am brining it back out of it's sleep in the coming weeks. Also, after the dealership did their thing, the transmission started to make an odd noise. In park or neutral or in 1 gear in tiptronic there is an audible sound. It sounds like a big bearing set spinning dry. Imagine if you wee holding a big roller bearing that was clean and dry. When you spin it you get that bzzzz bearing sound. The odd thing is that it makes this sound in 1st gear tiptronic at ide but not 1st gear in drive or sport. It's not so loud that you would hear it driving normally just when sitting and idling or revving the engine in park. Need to do something with the transmission but not sure what steps to take next.

 

[wytravel]

Hi all,

I replaced (under extended warranty) the valve body on my 04 V10 a year ago, after experiencing some slam shifting. On advice from another v10 member here I contacted Ream Man in Lansing, MI. Although I live on the east coast, I was about to start a big trip west towing my 5k lb camper. I made Lansing the first stop, and they had me in and out in a few hours. Fantastic. Transmission has been working flawlessly UNTIL recently (it has been about 10k miles since replacement). I mostly notice it at about 70 mph on a slight incline, so there's a light load on the transmission. I get a mild bump every second or so, or a little faster, as though I'm driving over expansion joints in the highway, but the road is smooth. If I push the gas harder, it goes away. I've contacted Ream Man - they've instructed me to disconnect both batteries, turn key on for half an hour to drain system, then reconnect and drive 30 or so miles in the city to have the transmission relearn. I'll let them (and you) know how that works out. I'm due to make the same 6k mi trip, mountains and all, in a week....... We'll see if my first stop is Lansing again!

 

[dihmels]

I just drove 3800km from Toronto to Vancouver and experienced the same issue. I think it may have been more prevalent with the cruise control active. I did find in heavy rain at one point while driving very slow that there was an audible mechanical clunk with every rotation of the wheel. I am thinking that might be a wheel speed sensor failing in the wet conditions and messing with the traction control. But yes, I know the sound you are referring to. It could be new smooth blacktop and it feels like a slight bump every "x" feet travelled.

 

[dihmels]

The reason I suggested that it may be the cruise control is that it feels like there is play in the drive train that the CC does not allow for. For me, i found that it seems more prevalent at constant speeds, slight inclines, or slight down hills. So in situations whew the CC would have to throttle on and off regularly the "play in the drive line would have to have the slack taken out before the torque would end up at the road. Then, when the throttle disengaged there would be the reverse as the torque from the wheel would then be transferred back to the engine. This on /off cycle could feel like a rhythmic bump. I also dropped the tire pressure a bit as I am running very stiff 109V rated tires.

 

[noobytoogy]

You reset the gearbox by turning the ignition on but NOT starting the car.

Then you press the accelerator to the fllor and hold it there for 10 seconds.

Release, turn the ignition off and remove the key.

The car will learn how you drive all over again.

 

[wytravel]

You reset the gearbox by turning the ignition on but NOT starting the car.

Then you press the accelerator to the fllor and hold it there for 10 seconds.

Release, turn the ignition off and remove the key.

The car will learn how you drive all over again.

----Thanks, I'll do this - much easier!

 

[wytravel]

Update: after resetting the transmission computer, I thought I *might* have noticed it once a day or two later, but since then it has functioned perfectly. I've since driven close to 3000 miles, most of it towing, much of it in the mountains, with no trouble.

 

[noobytoogy]

Fingers crossed it's sorted!

 

[mustanghusker]

I have had all sorts of trouble. My check engine light is still on and I finally broke down and had the torque converter replaced. Everything looked good just long enough to pass inspection, but then my check engine light came back on again.

I have also noticed that on start up it takes a minute or so for the transmission to fully engage 1st gear. I revs just above 1000 RPM and if I give it some gas I barely move. Eventually it settles down and idles at its normal lower level and drives fine. And I have only noticed it at start up. The shop said that this was indicative of a torque converter problem, but even after the replacement it still happens.

Then to top it all off there is an electrical gremlin draining the battery. Anything longer than a few days and I come out to a completely dead battery. I put the key in and I don't get any lights or anything. Can't get the key out of the ignition again with putting power on the battery.

Has anyone else noticed anything like this? Starting to wish I had just sold the thing a year ago. Love the car when it drives right, but haven't had that feeling in about a year now. The beating is that it still looks good and when running I really enjoy it!

 

[13Tregex]

You reset the gearbox by turning the ignition on but NOT starting the car.

Then you press the accelerator to the fllor and hold it there for 10 seconds.

Release, turn the ignition off and remove the key.

The car will learn how you drive all over again.

Hi nooby, do you know what MY,s this procedure is valid for?

Thanks

 

[Yeti]

Hi nooby, do you know what MY,s this procedure is valid for?

Thanks

Should be all of them since they are all drive by wire.

 

[dihmels]

Wytravel, when was the last time you had the ATF filter out? Are you sure that the oring has been fit on the seal and that it is not damaged? I assume that the ATF is at the correct level? Is the pump starving for ATF ?

 

[BarklayMarklay]

Canadian Touareg owner Valve body repair

Brand new to forum last week. Incredible network of information, thank-you. I have bought my Touareg and will now share my first post. The car I bought, I got a great deal on, won't be sharing details so as to not cause a further drop in prices. However, the valve body needs to be replaced immediately, shifts terribly. I am taking the lead from another Canadian poster, I read last night, and facilitating the services of Valve Body Rebuilders. I have been quoted a price of $699 for the rebuild, Canadian dollars! I am just looking for a shop to allow the vehicle to be sitting for about a week. The amount of shop time to do this replacement is 2.5 hours but I imagine it will cost extra for the parts. All in all I think the whole repair willl cost $1200. Very reasonable considering what a new tranny could cost. Will keep you posted on results.

 

[joeames]

Barklay, I have something for you. I bought a Revmax VB for my 2004 V8 transmission. It has all of 15 miles on it because my problem was a blown clutch!

I can tell you this -- even though I could only drive in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears, the shifts were super smooth. Almost couldn't tell when it happened. The VW VB never worked that good. It was like driving an old pickup truck with a blued flywheel and worn throw out bearing.

Here's the page 09D TR60SN OEM Updated Valve Body 2003-2004 W\ Pressure Switches

I had VW pull it for me when they installed used transmission. Now it sits in the corner of my garage, staining the floor with German mineral oil.

Cost me $650 plus shipping. PM me a reasonable offer and you'll be good to go in an afternoon. A vb swap doesn't take long at all.

 

[noobytoogy]

After the VB change, make sure your timing belt, tensioners, water pump and thermostat have been changed every 80,000 miles or 5 years, whichever comes first. If the belt lets go, the engine is toast.

 

[BarklayMarklay]

Barklay, I have something for you. I bought a Revmax VB for my 2004 V8 transmission. It has all of 15 miles on it because my problem was a blown clutch!

I can tell you this -- even though I could only drive in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears, the shifts were super smooth. Almost couldn't tell when it happened. The VW VB never worked that good. It was like driving an old pickup truck with a blued flywheel and worn throw out bearing.

Here's the page 09D TR60SN OEM Updated Valve Body 2003-2004 W\ Pressure Switches

I had VW pull it for me when they installed used transmission. Now it sits in the corner of my garage, staining the floor with German mineral oil.

Cost me $650 plus shipping. PM me a reasonable offer and you'll be good to go in an afternoon. A vb swap doesn't take long at all.

I am going to go with the rebuilt one in Canada. Thanks for the offer. I have been considering doing the work myself. However, have decided to let the professionals do it.