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226 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After a few near death experiences last week on the same trip, and a recent fascination with Facebook dashcam videos (don't judge), I decided it was time to pull the trigger on a dashcam. I opted for the Aukey DR02 D dual cam.

Along with it I picked up a 128GB Samsung Pro Endurance card, and because I wanted a clean install, this hard wire kit which will cut the power if it goes below 11.9V

Searching through the forum I found a helpful post from @iamcanadian783 about his installation of this same dashcam. On his advise I also purchased a trim kit and some clear double sided Gorilla tape to replace the included gray 3M.

The fuse kit replaces the cable lower left, and of course negates the need for the 12V USB adapter in the middle.

My personal preference was to power tap into the B fuse box. The one on the driver's side for NA models.

For now I want an always-on power source (can always change later or add a switch). I found that fuse #1 , 25A for "Driver seat adjustment control module -J810" was always powered up (verified with my multi-meter), so using the right sized fuse adapter from the kit, I tapped into that:

Then I verified the power source was working as intended:

Working backwards from the mirror, I left enough to plug the cam in, then ran the wire along and under the edge of the headliner. Very easy as there's lots of room until you get to the pillar. Here it took a bit of coercing with the trim tools to coax it in at the top, and run it horizontally over towards the door gasket:

To get it around the top of the pillar there's a little clip that grabs onto the headliner. It pulls back easy enough, and then you stuff the wire behind it and push the clip back on. Here's that same clip on the other pillar:

Then just stuff the wire under the gasket down until you're all the way down to the bottom of the fuse box.

Now we'll finish the wiring by attaching the ground. There's a perfect hole on this bracket to pop a screw and lock nut into:

Zip tie the excess wire and stuff it into the space forward of the fuse box where you see the blue pad.

Finish by running the wire along the groove where the pillar trim meets the lower trim piece, and pop the fuse box cover back on all nice and neat:

Now back up at the windshield, I popped off the plastic piece that is just behind the mirror, ran the excess of the cable in there and out the corner then clipped the trim back on. There's a bit of a gap due to the wire exiting, but no one sees it, and if you work it enough you can minimize the gap:

If you can't tell already, I decided to mount my front cam to the right of the rear view mirror. It's mounted high enough that everything but the lens is behind the frits. I used the gorilla tape because it is clear, whereas the included 3M is a bright gray and too noticable.


226 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Now that the front cam is mounted, it was time to install the rear. The cable to the rear is significantly thicker than the power cable because it needs to also carry video signal from back to front:

Because it's thicker it's a bit trickier to stuff in the headliner and down the pillar, but it fits. Same deal. Run it down the door gasket until you're at the groove near the fusebox. There's a couple of gaps inside the fusebox area that will let you run the wire down towards the floor. Pull all the excess cable through:

Route the wire in the gap and put the fuse box cover back on:

Stuff the cable under the trim starting in the footwell and then continue along the floor trim working your way to the back of the truck:

Keep going until you're at the back seat, and run it up towards the rear side window. I opted to let the wire exit here and stuffed it into the groove, up and along the window bottom (I neatened it up after this shot):

then up and along the trim and gasket again just like previously:

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Then finally exiting about top dead center, folding the remaining excess cable so it can flex as the hatch opens and closes, and mounting the rear cam. Photo here is with the hatch open:

That's it! I installed this up at our camp without any additional tools but a phillips driver to tighten the ground screw and nut.

With the front cam off to the passenger side, I can barely see it and so it doesn't interfere with my view or distract in any way:

Hope this helps someone!

226 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Update: two weeks with the Aukey powered up 24/7 and there have been no issues with battery drain, so the fuse tap with low voltage protection appears to be working well.

However having it on 24/7 I'm realizing is really overkill for me. I live in a rural area and my vehicle is always garaged. So I have another simple fuse tap on order as well as a DPDT switch. This will let me toggle the power source to the cam as needed. So when traveling I can flip it and have monitoring on all the time, or if needed power it down altogether. More on that later when the parts arrive next week.
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