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Can also confirm for others looking at this thread that, for me, the battery drain issue I had was also resolved with this mosfet fix. Keyless entry and all door lock buttons as well as rear gate unlock are still functioning well. Had to clear codes with vag-com after initial fix as others have stated.
 

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I made a pretty big mistake, I used too much heat with my rework air gun and these resistors fell off and I lost one. I'm having the worst time figure out the value. It looks like brown-brown-black-red, which would be 11 ohm. But if there are 5 bands, it might be brown-brown-black-red-brown which is 11 THOUSAND ohms. My multimeter was reading 1.2 killiohm, so I'm leaning towards 11k ohm. If anyone can tell me with any certainty it would be much appreciated.
238623
 

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I made a pretty big mistake, I used too much heat with my rework air gun and these resistors fell off and I lost one. I'm having the worst time figure out the value. It looks like brown-brown-black-red, which would be 11 ohm. But if there are 5 bands, it might be brown-brown-black-red-brown which is 11 THOUSAND ohms. My multimeter was reading 1.2 killiohm, so I'm leaning towards 11k ohm. If anyone can tell me with any certainty it would be much appreciated.
View attachment 238623
So after trying 11, 1.2k, 11k ohm resistors and nothing working, I pulled a KESSY from the junk yard. After extracting the SKCs with CarProg, the new KESSY would not adapt to my car (completely different part number, 3D0 vs 9L0). I was, however, able to measure the resistors in that KESSY and the two circled are DIFFERENT. The bottom one measured 1.2k ohm and the top measured 30k ohm! I didn't want to wait for more parts so I coupled an 11k ohm with a 20k ohm to get close to 30k. What do you know that did the trick.

I noticed the antenna range was horrible, I had to hold the fob right next to the handle to unlock with the handle or lock with the black buttons. So the KESSY came back apart and I resoldered the mosfets. I read in one of these threads that poor range will result if the mosfet ground sinks don't have a solid enough connection to the pcb (I swear I had melted these guys on there well...). Sure enough that fixed my range issue. All handles and buttons work no matter where my key is on my person. Except the hatch. Is that supposed to open if the car is locked and I have the key in my pocket?

tl;dr:
CarProg 10.93 works great for dumping eeprom and revealing SKC
Make sure you solder the mosfet ground sink super well to the pcb or you will have range issues
 

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Hello to all. I am having troubles with Touareg +2008. Don't works remotes, don't works start button. Don't works buttons in handles (i just heard a relay inside) I Open mannualy the lock and put the key in ignition to start vehicule. Both keys the same problem. Read faults in kessy and there's no any faulty. Batteries ok. Mosfet are Ok. Resistors are Ok. I tried to connect with channel 46 but reads Ok parte number and then closed comunication.
I recoding the two keys again with Avdi and Lonsdor and same issue. What can do?
Thanks for your help
 

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Hello to all. I am having troubles with Touareg +2008. Don't works remotes, don't works start button. Don't works buttons in handles (i just heard a relay inside) I Open mannualy the lock and put the key in ignition to start vehicule. Both keys the same problem. Read faults in kessy and there's no any faulty. Batteries ok. Mosfet are Ok. Resistors are Ok. I tried to connect with channel 46 but reads Ok parte number and then closed comunication.
I recoding the two keys again with Avdi and Lonsdor and same issue. What can do?
Thanks for your help
Did the remotes one day stop working, or did you buy the car this way? When you try to start the car with the start button does it say "no key found"?

If you bought the car like this, what is the part number of the key (under the switch blade)?
 

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Hi Skitals, both Remotes stop working at same time as button in handles and start button.
When press start button appears immo activated.
If put key in ignition lock works properly.
Keys are originals. 3D0959753AM.
 

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Did the remotes one day stop working, or did you buy the car this way? When you try to start the car with the start button does it say "no key found"?

If you bought the car like this, what is the part number of the key (under the switch blade)?
Hi Skitals, both Remotes stop working at same time as button in handles and start button.
When press start button appears immo activated.
If put key in ignition lock works properly.
Keys are originals. 3D0959753AM.
 

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Hi Skitals, both Remotes stop working at same time as button in handles and start button.
When press start button appears immo activated.
If put key in ignition lock works properly.
Keys are originals. 3D0959753AM.
How do you know the mosfets are okay? How did you test them? From my own experience if the mosfet drains are broken or weak you won't get any faults on [05 - Acc/Start Auth.] but the range your key is detected can be diminished to zero.
 

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The T1 and T2 have 3 separate systems as far as the keys are concerned.

1. The mechanical key that goes into the keylock. This is working for you.
2. The remote fob that locks and unlocks the door by pressing the remote button.
3. The kessy system that runs the touch door handles, the door buttons, and the push to start button.

Each one of these is a separate system. In theory, The only ones that can start or stop the engine is #1 and #3.

From your description, all I can tell you is that it is broken. If you need more help, a separate thread with a VCDS scan is a good start. You might have to open the kessy unit and start measuring resistance values of the components.

Immobilizer Active could mean a lot of things.
 

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The T1 and T2 have 3 separate systems as far as the keys are concerned.

1. The mechanical key that goes into the keylock. This is working for you.
2. The remote fob that locks and unlocks the door by pressing the remote button.
3. The kessy system that runs the touch door handles, the door buttons, and the push to start button.

Each one of these is a separate system. In theory, The only ones that can start or stop the engine is #1 and #3.

From your description, all I can tell you is that it is broken. If you need more help, a separate thread with a VCDS scan is a good start. You might have to open the kessy unit and start measuring resistance values of the components.

Immobilizer Active could mean a lot of things.
Thanks for your time and response.
Point 1: Ok
Point 2 and 3: don't works both but i discovered if i disconnect the big connector of the kessy and connect again remotes works ok without any troubles but don't works (3) The kessy system that runs the touch door handles, the door buttons, and the push to start button. Then, I put the key in ignition lock/start the Treg/then Off/ extract key/close door the remote don't works anymore.
Need disconnect/connect big connector and again same results...works remote... don't works push start button... ... ...
By the way, i am trying to find secondhand or new module... Do You know if clone the eeprom 93c86 is enough to work or need adapt ??

I scan with vcds too and don't have any dtc's.
 

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My best guess is that there is a problem in #3. The strange thing is that it normally does not kick out #2. If you change out the mosfets and the capacitors, you have a chance that it might repair the problem #3. I don't know if #2 would stay online or not. It could go either way.

In theory, if you get a compatible kessy and clone the eeprom, then the compatible kessy should be plug and play. All the immobilizer stuff is in the eeprom, so you should be good there.

Before swapping, be sure to use VCDS and do a full scan so you have all the coding for all the modules, including the old kessy you are taking out.

Once the new kessy is in, use VCDS to check to coding on it. Worst case should be that you have to set the coding.

I would love to see the vcds error report from the kessy.

The more I think it over, the more I feel that it is #3 somehow knocking out #2. I would give you 75/25 odds that fixing the kessy #3 might fix #2.

__added in an edit

The fact that #2 kicks out after a start cycle and we see the immob during start makes me wonder if the inside antenna is going out.

Working theory pulled out of my butt: The inside antenna reads your key when you press the start button, but when we go into the actual start cycle where the kessy sends the start commands to both the ecu and the immob, the inside antenna is dropping out. The immob looks for the key during that actual start cycle, does not see it, aborts the start cycle and locks out the keys. Since it locks out the key by ID, that also kills #2.

This also makes sense since the antenna that goes out is random (usually hits one of the four door antennas), but if it hit the inside antenna...

Remember that you fix the antenna errors by replacing the surface mounted capacitors near the mosfets. As long as you are there, replace the mosfets also.
 
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