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Per the below thread, I recently ordered Antec's 2-piece skid plate. It took a little while to get here from the overseas vendor. But at last it's in my hands. :)

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f66/skid-plate-for-2007-touareg-v6-64332.html

Everything appears to be in order and good shape. And given how big the pieces are, it's clear why shipping wasn't cheap. But the whole setup weighs only about 20 kilos, despite it's very substantial construction. Bow Down

Below are a few pics of the main (8 mm) and extension (6 mm) plates. Apparently, both have been revised from the versions shown in the (online) installation instructions. The extension (rear) plate is considerably bigger than in the instructions. It's been lengthened rearward by almost a foot, and is now about the same size as the main (front) plate. :cool:

I just took the OEM plastic baffles off my Treg in preparation for mounting the plates tomorrow. (I also applied a liberal coating of wax-based corrosion protection to the Treg's mounting surfaces.) Will take plenty of pics of the installation process...
 

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Hi Schubie,

Can you post some picture and detail on the attachment points.

Stuart..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OK, the new plates are installed on my Treg. Installation was actually pretty straightforward. Per the instructions, a little trimming of plastic is required to access the rear-most pair of mounting holes. But once you know where the hole is, the process is easy. It was just a matter of taking out 3 screws that secure the plastic in this area, to pull it down and peer underneath.

Below are a couple pics of the plates with some of the mounting hardware prior to installation. The remainder show the plates installed. The ones taken beneath the rocker facing forward show the rear-most mounting point and the small (2-3 sq. in.) cut-out areas.

Overall, I have to say the design and execution of this setup are excellent. Not being a German speaker, I relied entirely on the instruction diagram. There was a little confusion at first trying to reconcile hardware for each plate. But once we realized the extension (rear) plate isn't standalone, we figured out how some of the main (front) plate hardware is recycled when both plates are installed together.

Now to find some good terrain where this setup can shine...

Antec Underride Protection Plate Extension with mounting hardware


Antec Underride Protection Plate with 1 of 3 pairs of mounting hardware


Antec Underride Protection Plate (front) and Extension (rear) installed on Treg, center-front view


Antec Underride Protection Plate installed on Treg, right-front oblique view


Antec Underride Protection Plate installed on Treg, left-front oblique view


Antec Underride Protection Plate (background) and Extension (foreground) installed on Treg, left-rear oblique view


Antec Underride Protection Plate (background) and Extension (foreground) installed on Treg, center-rear view


Antec Underride Protection Plate (background) and Extension (foreground) installed on Treg, left-rear view


Antec Underride Protection Plate (background) and Extension (foreground) installed on Treg, right-rear oblique view


Antec Underride Protection Plate (background) and Extension (foreground) installed on Treg, right-rear view
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi Schubie,

Can you post some picture and detail on the attachment points.

Stuart..
Hey Stuart,

Check out the above pics and let me know if they help. I have a few more close-ups as well. And if you're interested in seeing something I haven't shot, I can take some more.

The online instructions (see link on previous thread at top) do a pretty good job of showing the attachment points. (Even if the image is a bit small and blurry.)

And in case it isn't clear, the plates are secured entirely to the subframe/rails or transfer case x-member. :cool:

Hope this helps,
Chris
 

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How much was the total in the end for those pieces?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A little over $1,200, including vendor-sourced shipping (from the UK). But a Jeep buddy of mine (who helped with the install) made a good remark about it. You could easily spend that amount on gear/mods that don't come close to the quality of this. :cool:
 

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It took about 10 days for them to be transported and clear customs. (Which BTW added about $30 after the fact to the total cost. :rolleyes:)
 

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I'm planning on ordering the plates pretty soon. I got a couple more queations though:

1.) what are those little black metal objects with the bolts on the front skid plates when you were assembling them?

2.) how's the fit? Any rattles / vibrations?

Thanks for replying.
 

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I wonder how compatible this would be with the 11's+. 2007-2010 models were "relatively" similar. I think this is a great idea.
I wonder about that too. Maybe the best thing for us to do is to measure the distances between the holes where we bolt the plates from the front to the 1st cross member to the 2nd cross member and from left to right holes. Then compare it with a 2010 MY.
The other concern i have is the Torsen / transfer case housing (the one with the black rubber)which seems to be somewhat hanging 'lower' than the 2nd cross member.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm planning on ordering the plates pretty soon. I got a couple more queations though:

1.) what are those little black metal objects with the bolts on the front skid plates when you were assembling them?

2.) how's the fit? Any rattles / vibrations?

Thanks for replying.
1. The black angles are the forward-most attachment points. Per the installation diagram (posted someplace in the thread), they're u-bolted to the outboard end of each subframe rail. The forward plate is then hex-bolted to the angle brackets (which are threaded).

2. Fit was no drama. The holes in the forward plate are slotted, so there's room to move it fore & aft. We set it in the middle for now to facilitate oil changes w/o removal. The rear plate has two sets of holes, presumably to accomodate different engine/trim configs. Both could work on mine, but one set afforded a more symmetrical positioning (which we used).

I have yet to notice any rattles/vibrations from the setup. And I bashed it around pretty heavily on rutted sand tracks a couple weeks back. To the point where I bottomed out the Treg on the plates (mainly the forward one). The result was a firm stop, but no noise otherwise. And all hardware, including plastic thread protectors I put on post-installation, are still where I put them. Bow Down
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I wonder about that too. Maybe the best thing for us to do is to measure the distances between the holes where we bolt the plates from the front to the 1st cross member to the 2nd cross member and from left to right holes. Then compare it with a 2010 MY.
The other concern i have is the Torsen / transfer case housing (the one with the black rubber)which seems to be somewhat hanging 'lower' than the 2nd cross member.
Antec has a T3 variant. I havent' looked much into this version, but you might check out the associated installation diagram. It may give some clues to these issues. You might also come across some pics of the setup installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here's the installation diagram/instructions for my facelifted T2 version.

http://www.antec-online.de/downloads/pdf_instructions/en/antec_instruction_1754414_en.pdf

Note the (black) unthreaded end of each "L" (ell) shaped bolt slides into a subframe or crossmember hole to provide an anchor point.

These anchors are strong, but be careful not to over-torque them. It is possible to break the weld... :rolleyes:

Fortunately, Up-Country carries full replacement hardware kits. I plan to buy one before removing the plates for tranny servicing at 80k mi.
 

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Here's an update on changing the engine oil with the front/main plate in place...

I brought my T2 (with both plates installed) to the dealer yesterday for an oil/filter change. I also mentioned the plates to the SA (one of the better ones there) and, with a cutout for the drain plug, suggested they "shouldn't have to remove them" for the job.

A couple hours later, the SA tells me the job is done and apologizes for it taking a bit longer than usual. He goes on to say they had to remove the front/main plate because the hot oil doesn't drain in a narrow stream; it comes out in a broad gush that largely misses the oval cutout. So rather than have it make a huge mess, they just removed the plate. #-o

I told the SA I was very concerned about whether the attachment hardware was reinstalled properly without overtorquing (e.g. with an air wrench). He apologized again, and offered to ask the techs what they used to tighten the hardware. (Yes, please do!) A minute or so later, the SA came back with a small, cordless (low-torque) impact driver that he said was used to do the tightening. After a few seconds of silence, he also offered to pay for the replacement Antec hardware if it was damaged.

As a precaution, I loosened and retorqued all hardware on the front/main plate today and fortunately found all of it to still be functional. So at this stage no apparent harm done.

In the future, the SA and I figured that plate removal could probably be avoided by placing a flexible, elongated funnel through the cutout to collect draining oil. (The cutout is oval, so there's room for a ~4" wide funnel and a hand to undo the drain plug.) :idea:

Live and learn--Chris
 

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Not to be an as* but if you are that concerned about this piece being damaged why wouldn't you change it yourself? I work at a dealer (Not a VW dealer) but I can honestly say that techs are not that concerned about your special armor that you put on. To us it is just another thing that gets in our way, that takes more of our time which costs us money. We don't get paid by the hr, we get paid by the job so if I have to spend an extra 15 minutes on your SUV because you put on an aftermarket piece I would suspect they would/should charge you extra. I understand your concern with the whole thing but you also have to look at it from their perspective as well. When ever I bring in my Touareg for anything warranty related I take off my wheels and remove anything that they could damage because I know that they will not be as careful as I would be. If I were you I would either change the oil myself next time, or remove that piece..Its just something that may get damaged because they do not have the actual torque specs and quite honestly are not going to take the time to make sure it is torqued correctly.
 

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Maye it would be better if you install a Fumoto oil drain valve with the nipple so that you / they can connect a plastic hose to direct the stream of hot oil into a container. This is what I am planning on installing my next oil change before I purchase the skid plates in preparation. I had actually thought about the 'mess' that the front plate may cause.

I thonk the Fumoto valve costs around ~$30 or so.

Here's an update on changing the engine oil with the front/main plate in place...

I brought my T2 (with both plates installed) to the dealer yesterday for an oil/filter change. I also mentioned the plates to the SA (one of the better ones there) and, with a cutout for the drain plug, suggested they "shouldn't have to remove them" for the job.

A couple hours later, the SA tells me the job is done and apologizes for it taking a bit longer than usual. He goes on to say they had to remove the front/main plate because the hot oil doesn't drain in a narrow stream; it comes out in a broad gush that largely misses the oval cutout. So rather than have it make a huge mess, they just removed the plate. #-o

I told the SA I was very concerned about whether the attachment hardware was reinstalled properly without overtorquing (e.g. with an air wrench). He apologized again, and offered to ask the techs what they used to tighten the hardware. (Yes, please do!) A minute or so later, the SA came back with a small, cordless (low-torque) impact driver that he said was used to do the tightening. After a few seconds of silence, he also offered to pay for the replacement Antec hardware if it was damaged.

As a precaution, I loosened and retorqued all hardware on the front/main plate today and fortunately found all of it to still be functional. So at this stage no apparent harm done.

In the future, the SA and I figured that plate removal could probably be avoided by placing a flexible, elongated funnel through the cutout to collect draining oil. (The cutout is oval, so there's room for a ~4" wide funnel and a hand to undo the drain plug.) :idea:

Live and learn--Chris
 

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Yeah, I saw that not long ago and thought it might be a good alternative. Let me know if you go ahead with it and how things turn out. I plan to have both plates off in another 10k mi for the tranny servicing. Might be a worthwhile mod at that time. Thanks--Chris
 

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Not to be an as* but if you are that concerned about this piece being damaged why wouldn't you change it yourself? I work at a dealer (Not a VW dealer) but I can honestly say that techs are not that concerned about your special armor that you put on. To us it is just another thing that gets in our way, that takes more of our time which costs us money. We don't get paid by the hr, we get paid by the job so if I have to spend an extra 15 minutes on your SUV because you put on an aftermarket piece I would suspect they would/should charge you extra. I understand your concern with the whole thing but you also have to look at it from their perspective as well. When ever I bring in my Touareg for anything warranty related I take off my wheels and remove anything that they could damage because I know that they will not be as careful as I would be. If I were you I would either change the oil myself next time, or remove that piece..Its just something that may get damaged because they do not have the actual torque specs and quite honestly are not going to take the time to make sure it is torqued correctly.
Well, hindsight's 20/20. Had I known the outcome, there are a few things I might have done differently. No complaints about the modest extra time or cost of the job. But I expected a heads-up from the SA that the plate needed to come down. Had one been provided, I could have suggested a plan B or at least given them the torque specs (50 Nm). The plate is practically bullet-proof (literally); it's just the fasteners that need to be treated with some care.
 

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