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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry to put you guys through another tranny question, but I'd like a little peace of mind on the repair direction and haven't found quite my issue in tons of searching.

Here is what is happening:

Gear selector area all highlighted in red
Shift into drive or reverse and nothing happens for maybe ten seconds or more and then it may drop into gear (usually after a slight rev). If I keep gas on it will hold in gear but as soon as I let off the gas it will drop out of gear. Reverse seems to hold in gear slightly better.

I've read TONS of threads on hard shifting, usually between 4th and 5th gears and of course I've read how almost all of these rigs need a new valve body. I've seen the rebuilt and improved one from RevMax, and would happily buy it but my symptoms being a little different seemingly than everyone else, thought I would bounce this off you guys.

I just bought this (super cheap) knowing what I was getting into, but only know what the previous owner told me. Which was it was supposedly driving fine and then one day not too long ago started acting up. He decided not to do anything to it just sell it cheap. Im into it cheap enough I could buy a tranny and be ahead if it came down to it.

I haven't driven it around too much. The tranny (I think) does seem to make an odd whirring sound almost like dry bearings ... I've seen this issue described though not seen many answer it's cause or reason. From my reading/searching I wouldn't at all be surprised if the VB would fix it but again, just looking for some reassurance or clear direction elsewhere.
I don't have the vag com, but I do have a Snapon Solus pro scanner with the vw chips. here are the following codes I got off it:

17105/P0721 = Tranny output speed sensor implausible signal
17116/P0732 = Gear 2 incorrect ratio
17117/P0733 = Gear 3 incorrect ratio
17118/P0734 = Gear 4 incorrect ratio
01192 = Torque converter lock-up clutch mechanical malfunction intermittent
17225/P0841 = Tranny fluid pressure sensor / switch 1 implausible signal open circuit/short with power intermittent

Due to the last code and some of my reading I was thinking I might find a bad wire in the harness.

Last night I drained the fluid and dropped the pan and filter. Fluid was old and dark but not black. Probably original. No obvious wiring issues, though hard to see if there is a good way to test wires with a meter without pulling the whole harness out, i'm all ears. Pan and plugs were all in great shape. Filter clearly needs to be changed.

Sorry for the long post but GREATLY appreciate any input. My hope is you guys will be "oh yeah, for sure a VB issue...get the new VB, fluid and filter and you should be good to go! Just hate spending the money blindly.

Thanks!
Geej
 

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I don't know if this is the problem but there is a wiring loom inside the gearbox which lies in the ATF. I seem to recall someone discovered that the ATF had got into the actual wires in that loom and was causing problems so he replaced the loom. I think there may be photos of him doing so using, if I recall it all aright, a blue plastic tool for undoing/making the connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. As I said, I did drop that pan and looked over the wiring loom visually but could see no obvious problems. Also couldn't think of a reasonable way to test short of pulling all apart and going over every inch of wire and check connector ends to see if wet. But any other input is great!
 

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Take a look at the two connectors behind the transmission, the two that go inside and to the valvebody. If there is trans fluid inside the connector that arr outside the gearbox, you might want to replace those wirings. Those both looms are around valvebody.

Transmission output speed sensor is easy to replace as it is located behind the valvebody. I replaced mine. You just need to take out the valvebody, which is pretty heavy. You might want to use something to hold it up when unbolting it. Also you need two little hooks to open the connectors of solenoid valves. Easy but dirty job.

My speed sensor went bad after transmission flush. It was misstakingly overfilled and i think the sensor took some crap in it.

When speed sensor dies, transmission gets its speed data from abs sensors. So its fine when you get it moving. But to get it moving you need to push it. No abs data, no go, goes to limp mode if you try without pushing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info. I did pull all three plugs off (I noticed 2 go into the tyranny and ones doesn't) but none of those were wet. If that's what the previous poster meant by fluid in the loom, I don't have that problem. The plugs were dry and when I shined a light into the plugs on the tranny side, no fluid.

My big dilemma is should I replaced the valve body. With that error code, does it seem likely that sensor should be replaced too?

Thank you for the input!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Now to clarify, the speed sensor code was for implausible signal but couldn't that be because it was in gear but not engaging (I.e. Should be showing one speed based on selector in drive but not matching since not in gear?)? The pressure sensor is the one that showed a circuit issue in the code readout.
 

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Yes, that is what i was referring at with fluid in connector. Mine was dripping wet when i opened it up.

Temp sensor btw comes with wiring loom, but i think pressure sensor is a single part. I'm thinking too that you might possibly have electrical fault in wiring or sensor rather than a valve body issue.

Pressure sensor is located at top side of valve body. My gearbox either doesnt have it or it cant be bought on its own. Some have it. I would try changing the two sensors before trying the new valve body. And check the wiring to solenoid valves because those drive the clutches that give fault codes.
 

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For some reason cant edit the last post but anyway. Google atsg_09d_eng.pdf. That is a really good manual for repairing the touareg transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks again for the info and the link. I just hate to put it all back together with new sensors and still have to open up again and buy fluid again. But maybe should start with seeing if there is a test for those two sensors. The car does have 179k so with how widespread the VB issue has been part of me wonders if it needs it anyway. My bigger fear is less about changing the VB and being overkill and more about not being the right thing. I'll look more into those two sensors. I think the rev max VB comes with new pressure sensors. Need to look again.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Found that PDF, it is excellent, though more for the rebuild looks like might be able to use for diagnostic to a point....
Anyone else had similar issues to what I have?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Removed the valve body and the output speed sensor (and pressure sensors). The pressure sensors of course are normally open so without a way to pressurize them I could not make any conclusive tests. And, as far as the speed sensor, according to the book, it's hard to conclusively test without testing in operation with a scope. But it dramatically failed the ohm test that new sensors should test at. Not conclusive but I do plan on replacing. I hope to ring out the wiring harness tonight but further visual inspection of the harness showed no issues. To me, the valve body is still a question. Any way to determine if it's been done before base on stamping or part number on VB case? Or way to test without special equipment? Thinking of calling the revmax folks and see what input they may have.
Any other thoughts from This group?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Addendum is speed sensor ohm'd out correctly this morning. May not have been fully at "room temp" when I tested last night.
 

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Has your issue been resolved? New speed sensor or VB or both? Just curious, I read all these posts and it's like I never got the happy ending to this story! Haha
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Oops, sorry, I should have posted the resolution. I replaced the speed sensor and the 1 pressure sensor. Doing that made it go into forward and reverse gears properly finally but then I DID get the common 4th-5th hard shift (primarily 5th to 4th) issue...it was classic. Did the tranny reset but no help...so at that point I ordered a VB from RevMax, popped it in (along with fresh filter, etc) and it's been running great ever since. So apparently I had a bit of a double whammy with the speed sensor (and pressure sensor I guess too) and the VB. But through resets of the tranny codes, etc, the speed sensor was clearly a problem and replacing it cleared up half of my issues...
The fresh VB though has made it a pleasure to drive. :)

And now you know...the REST of the story. ;)
 

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Thanks for coming back with the resolution. Glad it is now fixed.
 

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So I have an issue currently and the fault 17225 Fault coming up. Erased the fault and it doesn't appear again. PRNDS lights up vehicle is in LIMP mode but all gears change fine with momentum!


Sent from my SM-A500F using Tapatalk
 

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I'm helping a friend buy a 200.000 km V6 3.2 (2004).

here is what he got with my vcds cable:

Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 09D-927-750.clb
Part No: 09D 927 750 A
Component: AL 600 6Q 0360
Coding: 0004136
Shop #: WSC 31414 000 00000
VCID: 2C35484CE555D573B8-5178

3 Faults Found:
01045 - Tiptronic Switch (F189)
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent - MIL ON
17118 - Gear 4
P0734 - 003 - Incorrect Ratio - Intermittent - MIL ON
17119 - Gear 5
P0735 - 003 - Incorrect Ratio - Intermittent - MIL ON

Plus a lot of errors dies to battery low voltage.

He cleared codes, test drove and errors didn't come back.
The transmission does shift hard from 4 to 5th.
 
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