Great to know
Thanks

 

Nice one.
Thanks for sharing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Im having the same issue but i think mine is reported at the back.. I will put it on the VAG and locate which one is causing the issue.. This is huge for me, I have been living with this light for months! I got a tone of technical responses to the point that I just left it as is...but this was to the point and the pictures are super hellpful...does anyone know clips are located in the back??

 

Hi Suave,

From memory the rear sensors are positioned high up in the wheel arches between the rear doors and the wheels themselves.

They are partially hidden behind a black plastic splash shield that is held in place with two rusty screws/bolts.

Depending on whether your back end is raised or lowred you may have to jack it up to get clearance.

You can see how low my front end was in the picture. I managed to sort mine without removing the wheel, by jacking up that corner.

 

looks like i may need to jack up the car and possibly removing the shield to get a better look. Mine seem to have stopped working all of sudden. but im almost sure it happened while I was parking my car. I usually reverse park my car because my driveway is narrow and its easier to drive out. Also, right before entering the driveway, the pavement is not totally flat so it creates a bump upon entering my driveway.

 

Definitely needs sorting then mate

 

AIR SUSPENSION WONKY - PART DEUX

Further to my first post where the right front sensor was returned to its proper position, I have noticed that the rear left corner was still high compared to the the other three, the ride height adjustment knob didnt do much and the cel (pictured above) and fault code kept returning.

Have solved this issue with my OBDeleven scan tool...

If you have this problem, try running an adaptation of the ride height/chassis control module so the car can reset itself.

Just follow the instructions pictured above but also:

KEEP ENGINE RUNNING
KEEP IN PARK/NEUTRAL
KEEP ALL DOORS CLOSED


then

go to chassis control module via the app
select 'adapatation' from the menu
wait for channels to load, then select channel 1 - left front
if prompted enter code '31564'

1. Start with channel 1 - left front
wait for value 1 to change from 'wait' to 'value'
2. Then measure from the centre of the wheel (just below the 'V') straight up to the metal fender in mm
3. Input this measurement then press done on device keyboard screen if you have an android device
4. Then press the green tick box once, if you get a green confirmation message, that's good
5. Then press and hold the green tick box to save the new value
6. Then press the blue arrow in the bottom right corner to move on to the next wheel

complete above steps for each corner

Sequence

1 Front Left
2. Front Right
3. Rear Left
4. Rear Right

then at the 5th input, enter '1' and again press the green tick box, if you have a green message then press and hold to save the data

Then back out of the app and you should see that the jack/mode suspension light has kindly removed itself from your screen

If you measured the distances before starting the adapation or waiting for the prompt or found you were inside the vehicle (like I did) and have to open the door, you will get an error message at the end and will have to repeat the process.

Just keep going, and input the measurements (mine were 490, 490, 540, and 490 mm). You may get prompted for the security code at the end. Input '31564' and let it accept it. then back out of the app and you're good to go.

Managed this on my second attempt (due to human error of needing to open the door) and without VCDS.
.

 

I'm assuming the suspension can be recalibrated through the vcds software? If so, what are the steps? I have the vcds but I dont know where to look to do this. Mine seems to in the rear right. .someone posted a possible clamp that hold the air valve probably snapped off causing the in consistancy of the ride height. To me, its looks fine but that work shop fault message is annoying..I've driving like this for months but I definitely want fix it. Mine is 05 v8 treg btw.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

The calibration is almost never needed.

If you are thinking to calibrate because the system is not going up or it is not going down, then you are creating a world of problems for yourself.

Fix the underlying problem. When everything is going up and down properly on all four corners, then you can calibrate, if needed.

The calibration is almost never needed.

 

Hi Suave,

Three words mate before you go any further:

DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM

Am speaking from experience as i used to deal with car issues this way as well. It wastes valuable time and can get expensive with no results.

I have to agree with Nickyt. You need to get wrenchin' and diagnose the problem rather than throwing different solutions at it hoping that one of them works.

Your current approach is just like going to your Doctor with a problem and he/she giving you a bunch of different treatments/medicines and telling you to stop when you find what solves your issue.

The sensor on the front right wheel was out of position but the calibration was only out at the opposite corner for the left rear wheel.

I did have to do the adaptation reset though as it didn't fix itself.

Here is the google search link to Ross Tech for what you have asked.

https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/levelcontrol.html

 

VW_lover_2001 Did you drill a hole through the plastic tab (above the nut) so you could thread the strip through (the hole) and over the upper arm? (picture 6)

 

VW_lover_2001 Did you drill a hole through the plastic tab (above the nut) so you could thread the strip through (the hole) and over the upper arm? (picture 6)

 

I think so. But can't remember exactly.

It solved the problem though.

 

I think so. But can't remember exactly.

It solved the problem though.

Thanks

 

It solved that problem but had to get corroded bare wires at plastic connections replaced due to long term water damage.

Would have been nice if VW had added waterproof wiring connectors as I've ended up paying for someone else's fun of off roading.

 

I spray with WD-40 couple of times a year (tire change) in the connectors - so far so good.

 

Update: Ended up buying a new level sensor, but it made no difference (still dead in the right front corner). Then replaced the valve to the air suspension (even though it was done 18 months ago), and then everything worked again. It turns out that the valve can lock for air in and air out - without valve-leaking or that you hear or see a leak after a flush with soapy water.

Don't rely on the valve (Air Residual Pressure Valve) even if it's relatively new or looks visually fine. They can still become defective and stop working properly.

 

Aftermarket or OEM the first time you changed it?

 

Aftermarket then, and now - because I didn't know for sure if it was the valve (in other words, the elimination method). Moreover, it's easy to replace a valve that has not split.