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Further to my saga... the dodgy dealer over the road from work disabled my car (broke the valve) despite being told not to go near it if there is any risk and after a total of 7 days of mucking around I limped it to the normal dealer I use.

My car is now repaired as per the TSB for £300 with inspection, parts order and fitting done inside 36 hours.

Such a massive massive difference between dealers... I'm stunned.
 

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My connector is still in place but it leaks. As expected, the dealer wants to replace the entire shock for $ 3100..

Any way, the connector seem to be in good shape and it can be screwed in/out by hand so i believe it´s possible to replace the inlet. The parts arrive tomorrow, but I'm a little concerned about the pressure. I will lock it in "jack-mode" before i lift it, but how do i get rid of the excessive pressure? Is there a release valve anywhere? I guess you could lose a finger or two if you remove the inlet before the pressure is out ..
 

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My connector is still in place but it leaks. As expected, the dealer wants to replace the entire shock for $ 3100..

Any way, the connector seem to be in good shape and it can be screwed in/out by hand so i believe it´s possible to replace the inlet. The parts arrive tomorrow, but I'm a little concerned about the pressure. I will lock it in "jack-mode" before i lift it, but how do i get rid of the excessive pressure? Is there a release valve anywhere? I guess you could lose a finger or two if you remove the inlet before the pressure is out ..
It turned out to be quite simple. By slowly unscrew the smaller outer pressure hose connector, i could depressurize the system in seconds. No biggie.
 

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Greetings Fellow treggers!
Just wanted to drop u all a note, I've owned the beast for 5 years, brought it up from us in 07, and complained about "tranny" issues since, spent lots thinking the people who build this truck would know how to "FIX" the problem. Finally found a Vag owner who fixed the issue, after 5 years of repeatedly complaining. Go Figure.............
 

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Success

Thanks to the information found here i was able to successfully change the fittings on both front air shocks on my 2004 touareg. I purchased the valves at my local Saint John Nb VW dealer for $192.00 each and the replacement went well. The valve on the drivers side actually broke off in my garage and i was able to remove the piece that remained in the air shock with an easy out. The passenger side valve although not broken certainly looks like it is at the end of life and has been replaced. Thanks again to all who have shared their experience here.
Tony
 

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Well done - a bit of timely maintenance. Just make sure you lard the new ones up with thick grease or similar to protect them.
 

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Any thick grease that will keep water and salt out will do - go to a parts shop and get a small tube - or ask your mechanic to put a bit of grease round the inlets - it will only take 10 minutes to clean and protect them both.
 

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I use "Aqua Shield" It is made by DA Stuart. www.d-a-stuart.com
It is excellent for lubrication of parts exposed to fresh/salt water. I work on ROV's that go subsea and that is what we use the most. Consider coating items with Aqua Shield and then using a bit of heat shrink and shrink it round the item. works a treat!
 

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Discussion Starter #255

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Yep, spam. It has been dealt with.
 

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This thread scares me, but also very informative.

I recently bought a 2008 t2 v6 w/ air.

Car was originally a Southern car, so it has seen little to no rust:
Left side:
image-3774626286.jpg

Right side:

image-3507584777.jpg

I know this issue was mainly on the earlier eggs (04-07). Even though "I may" have the updated fittings, it doesn't seem I have the "plastic" tops from the 2010 shown earlier in the thread.

I want to do some preventative protection since I may have to drive this thing in a New England winter.

I tried ordering the wax spray D322000A2 which is superseded by D322100M2. No longer available to order from dealer due to "TSCA" regulations. Idk if that has to deal with the aerosols or the material used. So, it can only be ordered if I was to bring the car and the "shop" can order it only...

I bought some "BOESHIELD" and some "corrosion x hd".

Is there a preference in which I should use? Just looking for recommendations, prior experience and thoughts on the issue.
Thanks! Bringing this thread to the forefront b4 winter hits all over the northern hemisphere...
 

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This thread scares me, but also very informative.

I recently bought a 2008 t2 v6 w/ air.

Car was originally a Southern car, so it has seen little to no rust:
Left side:
View attachment 77489

Right side:

View attachment 77497

I know this issue was mainly on the earlier eggs (04-07). Even though "I may" have the updated fittings, it doesn't seem I have the "plastic" tops from the 2010 shown earlier in the thread.

I want to do some preventative protection since I may have to drive this thing in a New England winter.

I tried ordering the wax spray D322000A2 which is superseded by D322100M2. No longer available to order from dealer due to "TSCA" regulations. Idk if that has to deal with the aerosols or the material used. So, it can only be ordered if I was to bring the car and the "shop" can order it only...

I bought some "BOESHIELD" and some "corrosion x hd".

Is there a preference in which I should use? Just looking for recommendations, prior experience and thoughts on the issue.
Thanks! Bringing this thread to the forefront b4 winter hits all over the northern hemisphere...
They appear to look like the ones in my picture that you are referring to. Mine looked good in those pics for it was just washed. Raise it up and hit is with a power washer then see if they are plastic or not. Mine is now almost 5 yrs old and I'll admit last winter I did nothing to them in as far as cleaning them. So far so good and they are working as designed.
 
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