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Is there a definitve answer on the use of K&N filters on modern diesel engines.I was advised by a VW mechanic that filtr oil could end up on 02 sensor and cause engine probs.Any thoughts?
Andrew.
 

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Is there a definitve answer on the use of K&N filters on modern diesel engines.I was advised by a VW mechanic that filtr oil could end up on 02 sensor and cause engine probs.Any thoughts?
Andrew.
true in some cases for air mass flow metering.... they also let more hard particle contaminates through causing more engine wear debris. they breath better because they let more through! stick with the oem paper filter.
 
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If you are concerned about the MAF sensor, it takes a can of MAF cleaner and 10 minutes to clean both sensors.

I cleaned my K&N filter recently and was thinking of going back to OEM filters before I started. While busy cleaning the filter housings, I realized how super clean, dust free (no spec of dust) the clean air side of the housing was. Needless to say, the K&N's went back in and decided I can live with the microscopic things that goes through.

The bigger concern is over oiling the filter. I normally use my heavy duty shop vac to remove any access oil from the filters. My theory has not been tested but I suspect its unlikely that a car will have more suction through an air filter than the concentrated suction from a heavy duty shop vac, so what is left in the filter will stay in the filter.
 

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pity we don't live near each other, i would get your oil under the microscope and show you just how much hard particle contamination you will have (likely silica and likely 10 to 50 micron) and how much wear debris this is causing... it will be scary! you cannot tell how clean an oil is by eye! nor assess a filter by eye.
your OEM paper filter does a good job down to around 1um, the aftermarket foam ones do a lot of harm.

of course if you are not going to keep you engine for 'life' or have no interest in precision engineering etc, then none of this matters as your engine longevity, as far as you know, will not exhibit any failure modes. it's just interesting engineering.... but is factual!

some interesting reading that your mechanic or a friend of friend etc etc will know nothing at about!

http://www.rttech.com.au/?page_id=1180

http://www.rttech.com.au/?page_id=5



If you are concerned about the MAF sensor, it takes a can of MAF cleaner and 10 minutes to clean both sensors.

I cleaned my K&N filter recently and was thinking of going back to OEM filters before I started. While busy cleaning the filter housings, I realized how super clean, dust free (no spec of dust) the clean air side of the housing was. Needless to say, the K&N's went back in and decided I can live with the microscopic things that goes through.

The bigger concern is over oiling the filter. I normally use my heavy duty shop vac to remove any access oil from the filters. My theory has not been tested but I suspect its unlikely that a car will have more suction through an air filter than the concentrated suction from a heavy duty shop vac, so what is left in the filter will stay in the filter.
 

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Point taken.

As they say the say the proof is in the pudding. I hace a car in the driveway, one of Sweden's best with 205K miles (328 Kms) on it. I installed a K&N filter at +-15K miles and its still going strong. Zero oil consumption and still has the original turbo.

How much more do you expect from your air filter?
 

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I have been looking for a DIY video or instructions to change the air filter. I just have not found one.

Thanks for any suggests
 

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Hi, interesting.

My oil analysis showed a significant decrease in silica when I went from OEM to a K&N style of filter.

No other sensor issues. You just need "common sense" when oiling the filter.

****
 

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I installed a new Air Filter yesterday on my V6 TDI. Your Link to the PDF helped with understanding what is involved, but it turns out the TDI version was remarkably easy.

Here are the steps i used to change the air filter:

Do not disconnect the small coolant return line from the reservoir. The small coolant line was connect to the air filter by a long rubber rod connected in a 'hole' on the top of the air filter housing. I simply lifted the hose straight up and it will came right out of a hole on the side of the air filter housing.

I then removed the cable 'connector' from the sensor on the air duct. Then loosen the clamp holding the air duct and removed it from the air filer housing.

Unclamped the filter housing at the top and pulled it straight up about 1 inch. At this point I was able to remove the old filter and add the new one. The filter housing has two slots at the very bottom that holds the filter housing in place. I slid the filter housing back down 1 inch to secure it at the bottom and clipped the housing top back in place.

Re-clamped the the air duct, and reconnected the air sensor cable.

Finally placed the small radiator hose's 'rubber rod' back in the hole on the filter housing.

Done!

I bought a Mann Filers from BMA online for $22. I plan to change them more often going forward.


Thanks for your help!
 
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